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Eric.

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Posts posted by Eric.

  2. Posted

    Personally, i prefer a "coated" bcg over a "plated" bcg.

     

    A coated bcg i.e. NP3, melonite, et al, is a finer coating that comes off in much smaller, dust-like pieces, as it wears.

     

    A plated bcg i.e. chrome, NiB, etc, is made with layers of metal that can peel off in larger pieces or even strips.

     

    As far as protection and lubricity, it all seems similar to me (although NP3 supposedly has the best lubricity). For the most part, i run my bolts wet and dont go 1000's of rounds before re-oiling it.

  5. Posted

    The M4e1 upper has the BAR style rail mount as part of the forging.

    Both issues were easy to fix , won't let them turn me away from the brand , and the fact that they really stepped it up by sending the bcg makes me like them even more

    Oh, i got it. The 8 screws that attach their handguard to their proprietary handguard mount.

     

    Sorry to hear, but glad Aero made it right.

  6. Posted

    Like their stuff a lot

    Their tolerances aren't always up to par, I haven't had an issue but my buddy has gotten an M4E1 upper/rail combo that had 2 of the rail mounting holes untapped and another that needed the holes on the rail bored out in order to line up

    They were kind enough to send him out a free bcg to make up for the issues

    Im sure it can happen with anything mass produced.

     

    Are you taking about a flat top receiver? Im not understanding why it would have a rail mounting hole? Are you talking about the handguard (not the receiver)?

  7. Posted

    [quote name="Scorpio64" post="10190

    Don't get me wrong, I love PSA and use them often, but when I need a top quality part, like a precision stripped upper to build a precision rifle on, I go to to BCM or even Aero Precision.

     

     

     

    I prefer Aero over BCM. Honestly, i dont see why BCM sells at a premium to Aero being that the quality is about the same.

     

    For those that arent familiar with Aero Precision, their background is in the aero space industry, hence the name and their experience making parts to tight tolerences.

  8. Posted

    i'd agree IF you would mostly be "engaging" at 300+ yards.   it's really no different than those that put a red dot on a 45 offset mount on a scoped rifle.  it's a bandaid to use for the times when you aren't in the situation you built the gear out for.  

    Yes, and that brings us back to my original point; i feel using 6x magnification is taking away from the primary intended use of a red dot, which is...close/quick engagements. 

     

    Just because you can adapt a red dot for targets past 200 yds doesnt mean that is the best way to go.

  9. Posted

    Look, you can make 300 yard hits on paper/steel with an Aimpont PRO/T1/T2/M4s etc with no magnifier all day long. That's all fine and good, but paper and steel don't need to be identified as a threat before you engage them.

     

    This is a magnifier for a red dot sight. It enables you to ID threats v friendlies v unknown at the effective range of a carbine, and engage with an increased chance of hitting. It is not designed to magically turn an M4 into an SPR.

    Rick,

     

    I addressed this in my previous post. In my opinion, once you approach 300yds and beyond, you really are better off with an SPR set up rather than trying to engage with a red dot, at that distance.

  10. Posted

    The trouble it that it still covers a larger surface that you might wish at a longer distance. Personally I'm not a fan of that arrangement, it is no lighter then a 1-4x or 1-6x scope, no cheaper, two different mounts that can fail, two different optics that can fail, more crap to get caught in stuff, bleh.

    Yep. While the ratio of red dot size vs target stays the same, in reality...its not the same. Specifically, your field of view narrows with magnification. Now, that huge red dot covers a much larger area of view.

     

    Secondly, the 6x mag is trying to extend the range of the red dot optic. Thing is, red dots are intended for closer/fast target engagements. There are better optics for longer engagements that require 6x magnification rather than pushing the boundaries of the red dot.

  12. Posted

    Cool find, Iggy.  The channel is available in our area (Comcast) but you have to have the 2x upgraded, upgrade package.  F Comcast, maybe I'll be able to buy it on demand, per episode.

     

    On a side note, will I run into you in any competitions, this year?

  18. Posted

    There's a great thread on another forum, started by Ron Haney, who owns Battlefield Vegas (a tourist gun range).  They have various battle weapons, in various configurations, that get rented out.  Most are full auto and get a lot of use.

     

    The thread is basically a field test of AR (amongst other weapons) durability in a controlled environment with documented round counts, maintenance schedules and inspections.  To me, it's a treasure trove of info on what works and lasts.

     

    One of my take aways is the DI vs piston debate, specifically, what is "better".  Apparently, all piston systems cannot last like a DI system, with the exception of the HK416 and the Titan system.  Those two have decent life, but at the end of the the day, common sense says that more moving parts equals more chances of failure.  While theory is debatable, Ron Haney just provided the actual testing.

     

    Here is a summary of the info gleaned from that thread:

     

    HK MR223 has a very short barrel life.
    Titan Defense (clone to the HK 416) is GTG, and just as good as the real 416 (but cost less).
    AR15 (well manufactured) bolts will fail at around 30,000 rounds (around the bolt cam) at around which time the cam pins will fail.
    PSA is very well made.....................icon_smile_shock.gif
    Colt 9mm carbine can be problematic.
    SCAR-16 is very well made and a good alternative to the AR15.
    The return springs on the operating rods of piston AR's need to be replaced around 5000 rounds.
    The POF bolt cam pin is a NO-GO (I think I remember reading somewhere here, that the roller bearing comes off).
    MP5 rock!

    Magpul mags after hard use eventually crack on the back but they have excellent customer service.

  19. Posted

    The DI vs piston debate has been argued forever but in terms of long term reliability, DI seems to have the clear advantage. It makes sense when you consider that it has less moving parts.

     

    There is an epic thread on ar15.com ny Ron Haley, who co-owns a tourist gun range in Vegas. He has provided what might be one the most documented, controlled studies on high round count/long term durability of various combat rifles, including the AR.

     

    Long story, short; other than the HK416 or Titan piston set up, none of the other pistons lasted nearly as long as a DI.

  21. Posted

    While any 'sloppiness' between the upper and lower has no effect on accuracy, a properly sized o-ring placed on the front post of the upper will tighten it right up.

    Even better, there is something called the Accurizing Wedge, which is a rubber piece that sits behind the rear post lockup area rhat takes up the slack very well. Lasts forever too.

     

    Thats why i like Aero gen II lowers; they have a screw with nylon tip that can be adjusted to take up the slack.

  22. Posted

    I just signed up 2 weeks ago for the Ballistic advantage emails --

     

    I'm waiting for the Hanson 14.5 wylde to go on sale and I think I'm gonna grab one

     

    Thinking about pinning a lantac dragon brake to make it legal

     

     

    I just built my version of an SPR -- It's more accurate than me even with 55 grn surplus pulled reloads -- can't wait to see what it will do with 69grn SMK

     

    Noveske 16" 1/7 twist stainless -- mid length gas -- AK concepts muzzle brake

    Noveske Lo pro gas block

    Noveske matched bolt carried in a Colt FA bolt carrier

    Mounted on a Larue stealth upper

    15.1" larue FF rail -- Harris bipod on quick releases mount -- Magpul AFG

    GRSC 1X4 scope in a pepr mount for now -- have a bobro mount needing those silly scope mount screws replaced

    Billet Midwest PX lower

    Geiselle SSA-e trigger

    Magpul PRS stock -- Rifle length buffer and tube

    Ergo grip

    Stag LPK

     

    It is one heavy bastard

    Probably weighs as much as a typical RECCE; ~10lbs or so. Ive always felt if the extra 2-3 lbs was an issue then the fix is a lil bit of gym time, lol.

     

    Sounds like a nice build list. Got a pic?

  23. Posted

    I have no idea why you re having the success you are.  But don't mess with what works.

     

    Even my 6mm AR which I consider a precision rifle, I FL size but use a bushing die so I can regulate the neck diameter.

     

    My precision 223 AR I just FL size with a Dillon carbide and it shoots a ragged hole at 100 with magazine length ammo.

     

    So what works for you works.  But, if you start having problems you know where to start looking.

    Thing is, I'm not sure if Im doing more work for little or no accuracy gains (in a semi auto).  If I am gaining accuracy, it might be too little of a gain vs my shooting abilities.

     

    Thanks for the feedback.

  24. Posted

    You are losing me.

     

    Again my experience and opinions.

     

    You ALWAYS FL size when reloading for an AR.

     

    The dies you use are .223 Rem. (i've never seen 5.56Nato dies, but maybe they're out there)

     

    So In a semi auto you will never have fire formed cases.  Just to close for reliable feeding. Unless of course if you single load it will work.

     

     

    I'm open to learning (honestly).

     

    I only FL size cases that get dented.  Otherwise, I jsut neck size and check trim.  Ive done this for a long time with no adverse affects (no feeding issues), but if this is not the way to go, i would like to know why.

    Old school, if you get a minute, I'm open to feedback.

     

    I know popular forum wisdom is that you cannot neck size semi auto's due to potential feeding/extraction issues.  Im aware of this when I necksize.  I dont use a progressive loader and basically batch load my "pet loads".  I'm careful with my case prep. I check cases for dents, then check final dimensions with an RCBS case micrometer to measure the shoulder angle/position.  If all is well, then im good to go.  I haven't had a single feeding/stuck case issue yet.  Also, i do not rapid fire or have very long strings of fire.  I use carb & choke cleaner to clean the carbon from the chamber and freebore area (not a full bore cleaning) after each outing.

     

    I started experimenting with neck sizing a couple of years ago to see if it made an accuracy difference, since it works well with bolt guns.  The jury is still out.  Im not sure if im doing more work for lesser returns, so I would love to hear other ppl's experiences and facts, good or bad.

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