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Kuryakin

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Posts posted by Kuryakin

  6. Posted

    I bought a Zastava PAP from Master Arms LLC (Sloatsburg, NY) last weekend. Its a great little gun shop, I recommend you check it out if you haven't already. I put about 500 rounds through so far and its awesome.

     

    I have been looking at some options for a replacement forend. I read on a few forums that the UTG Yugo M70 Quad Rail fits perfectly. I am wondering if any of the Tapco Intrafuse forends will fit, I prefer plastic over metal to keep the rifle light. I was also thinking of threading and pinning a muzzle break on the barrel.

     

    Any thoughts on the above mentioned upgrades?

  7. Posted

    ****************************************

    raden,

    hows come you dont like da 40? ya, you guessed it - i have a 40.

    thanks

     

     

    I don't have anything against it, I just think its expensive to shoot on a regular basis on my budget.

  8. Posted

    14.5" barrel makes sense when you want to have a muzzle brake at the 16" minimum limit we are allowed. Otherwise you can go with a 16" barrel, and the perm-installed muzzle device would make it 17.5".. obviously.

     

    This is why I'm really digging the 14.5" + permanent brake.

     

    I agree that a complete DIY job, where you are installing your own barrel, gas block/tube, etc... one may want to reconsider putting on anything other than a full length gas system due to the potential gas system tuning that may need to be done (unless you know how to do it and are comfortable). If you are buying a complete middy upper from a company like Noveske or BCM, I'm willing to bet they have these puppies tuned to be as near-trouble free as full length systems.

     

     

    I decided that I will build the first upper with a 16" mid-length and pinned brake.

  9. Posted

    Well, like most things you hear at gunshops, its bullshyt. If you want one, buy it. But don't buy one because someone says it'll go full auto on you and you'll go to jail.

     

    Agreed, I just though I would throw it out there.

  14. Posted

    Sounds good. In the end get what makes you happy. That's a very nice lower.

     

    Pinning the MOE is easy, here is a vid doing the CTR, same concept with MOE. Vid

     

    You are doing it the right way. Get the pinning done before you take shipment of the upper.

     

     

    Thanks!!! I just hope the ST lower and that BCM upper fit nice and tight!

  16. Posted

    Raden, is that a billet lower kit? Saw it on Spike's site. Pretty pricey.

     

    You could get a Spike's lower from Aimsurplus.com for $79 (if they still have them).

    Also, IMO the CTR is a waste of money as you will be pinning it anyway. Take a look at the MOE.

     

    Check out Palmetto State Armory's lower build kits. You can even get them with a Geissele trigger if you want : http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/lower-build-kits.php

     

     

    You're right its costly.

     

    They have one without the stock,I like the design of the ST lower. Besides the Biohazard logo, it seems very functional

     

    Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - No Stock

     

    Features

     

    Biohazard Logo

    Bullet Pictogram Selector Markings

    Low Shelf, RDIAS Compatible

    ST Enhanced LPK

    -Spike's Billet Trigger guard w/Set screw

    -KNS Gen II Mod II Anti-Rotation pins

    -Spider Logo'd Ergo grip (Choose from Black, FDE, or OD Green)

    -ST Battle trigger with Nickel Boron Coated Mil-Spec Single Stage Trigger, Disconnect, and Rounded hammer

    -Ambi Safety Selector

    -Mil-Spec bolt catch, mag catch, and mag catch button

    -Mil-Spec detents, plungers, pins, and springs

    -Quality Spiral roll pins for trigger guard and bolt catch

    -1/4 Allen screw with washer for grip

    6-Position Buffer Tube, Castle Nut, Staked Latch Plate

    17-4 Stainless Buffer Spring

    ST-T2 Buffer

    No Stock Included

    ST Ergo Pistol Grip

     

     

    I can buy and pin the MOE stock and have it pinned anyway.

  17. Posted

    OK, my $0.02 on the original build list.

     

    SPikes billet upper and lower are as good as any other, but WHY?

     

    Once you take out looking cool, the only reason for a billet upper is precision, and you get that by having it be more rigid and being machined to tight tolerances with true faces and concentric openings. Which is all well and good, but you then pair it with a 14.5" barrel. Which basically means an m-4 style fake. Which has to be 16" long in the end anyway. The only reason for a billet lower is... well to look cool, or for a really nice match to your billet upper. Yeah, you can get a flared mag well, but an arredondo mag well has a bigger opening than any of the billet lowers I have run into.

     

    So do you want light, or accurate. For light, I'd go with a good forged upper and lower with tension screw from any good manufacturer (firebird are good and reasonably priced, but there are many out there). For accurate, I'd go for any of the tons of matched billet uppers and lowers. For a compromise, whcih is what I actually did for my own, I'd get a decent forged lower with a tension screw, and I'd get something like the rainier arms billet upper. It's almost as light as a forged upper, but it is very well machined and not insanely priced.

     

    Then there's the barrel. Why 14.5"? You lose velocity and accuracy. Most 14.5" barrels are cut like an m-4, which means the grenade launcher cut, which is something nobody persuing accuracy would do to a barrel. So why not just a light 16" barrel? Additionally, with a 16" you can go for a mid-length gas system, whcih will help mellow out recoil This will help with accuracy and speed on follow up shots.

     

     

    Battlecomp 1.5 - the emphasis on these are making the noise go forward rather than being a comp. In my experience, unless you are near walls, it doesn't matter that much and I'd jsut get a comp. If you want something short on your 16" to keep overall length short, the nordic components tactical comp is short and pretty damn effective for it's size. It's also only $35.

     

     

    Piston system - just don't bother. The biggest problem with the AR platform for reliability is the fact that the dust cover doesn't close itself, and crap can get in. I've shot a lot of wolf through my gun, which isn't very clean, and 1200 rounds without a cleaning caused no issue, and wasn't even that hard to de-crapify after the fact.

     

    Spikes MP tested bolt assembly. It's GTG if you believe spikes is actually doing what they say regarding testing. There's a giant pissing contest over that form various makers right now. but a HPT/MPI bolt carrier group is a good thing.

     

    Mil-spec trigger. Good god no. Just no. If you were building a bargain basement gun sure. Something like the Geissele Super Semi-Automatic is a good reliable trigger for the money.

     

    Pinned CTR stock. I'm not a fan of pinning collapsible stocks. Because at that point you have a fixed stock, and if I'm going to ahve a fixed stock anyway, I have to ask what I am compromising on. First, I could just go with a rifle length tube and buffer. What would I get for this? 1 - no messing around with buffer weight guessing. The rifle length buffer is heavier than the carbines, and will absorb a harsh gas impulse. The spring is less beefy and longer, which means a more gradual return to battery. Go midlength gas system and rifle length buffer assembly, and you ahve a NJ compliant carbine with a rifle like recoil impulse. Wieght with arfx stock and rifle assembly is about 19.02 ounces. A ctr with carbine H2 assembly is 18.36 ounces. It's very close in weight. The only reason I'd even consider a pinned stock is if I were going to seriously commit to practicing with a sling and wanted to use something like the magpul ASAP.

     

    7" lite rail. Go midlength on the gas system, and get a midlenght or full length rail. I recommend full length. If you brace it in a port, you want to be able to avoid burying yourself in the port, and you want to not use the abrrel to brace the rifle, but the free floated forearm. This reasoning is why you see a mess of dissipator style builds, and a lot of backup iron front sights are set up to be mounted on a forearm rather than on a gas block.

     

    BCM gunfighter medium chagring handle. Big yes on this. An awesome part worth every penny.

     

    MIAD grip is good, so are others. If you have big hands, MIAD is probably the best fit when set up right, and has decent storage that stays securely closed.

     

     

    Thanks for the input, very interesting. I don't like the full stock, it just feels bulky to me. Can you tell me why a standard trigger is so bad? I picked the battlecomp for it's recoil reduction abilities.

     

     

     

     

    Here is what I put together so far...

     

     

     

    BCM BFH 14.5"" Mid Length Upper Receiver Group w/ Daniel Defense LITE 12"" Handguard

    w/ Muzzle Device:Add Battle Comp BC 1.5 Black (Permanent Install)

     

    Spike's Tactical Biohazard Lower w/ Enhanced Kit - Black CTR Stock & MOE Grip

     

    BCM Bolt Carrier Group (MPI) - Auto

     

    BCMGUNFIGHTER Charging Handle (5.56mm/.223) w/ Mod 4 (MEDIUM) Latch

     

    Magpul ASAP Ambidextrous Sling Attachment Point

     

    Magpul AFG2 (Angle Forward Grip 2) - Foliage Green

     

    Magpul AR-15/M16 MBUS SIGHT SYSTEM

  19. Posted

    OK....I like BCM-Gunfighter charging handle. As a LEFTY shooter I like the ambi-safety though I am not sure what it offers to a right handed shooter. In a pinch I can operate right handed safety just fine so I would imagine a RH shooter forced to shoot lefty could do the same.

     

    I do not see much of a point to everything else on the list aside from it being cool looking/sounding/trendy.

     

     

    I see your point, I am working on revising the list anyways.

  23. Posted

    Regarding reliability in extreme fouling conditions and piston AR's

     

    Read this:

    http://www.bravocomp...thy14_oct10.pdf

     

    The common theme on the inets around AR and reliability all stem down to one statement - Not all AR's are built equally

     

    To me piston systems are more of a science experiment in AR land. For a SHTF gun, I would not want to be experimenting with anything, and will want tried, combat proven, and time-tested systems.

     

    I would also consider a target of owning both a quality AR and AK styled rifle. Parts are abound for both platforms, and both have their merits. Nice to be able to use two of the most common types of ammunition available out there, 5.56 NATO and 7.62x39.

     

    Perhaps tone down your custom build here a bit for cost savings where it makes sense. Using traditional DI setup over the piston kit, and going with a quality forged upper/lower instead of billet will shave off enough $ to nearly net you a nice Saiga conversion in 7.62x39.

     

     

    What receiver would you recommend?

  24. Posted

    Regarding reliability in extreme fouling conditions and piston AR's

     

    Read this:

    http://www.bravocomp...thy14_oct10.pdf

     

    The common theme on the inets around AR and reliability all stem down to one statement - Not all AR's are built equally

     

    To me piston systems are more of a science experiment in AR land. For a SHTF gun, I would not want to be experimenting with anything, and will want tried, combat proven, and time-tested systems.

     

    I would also consider a target of owning both a quality AR and AK styled rifle. Parts are abound for both platforms, and both have their merits. Nice to be able to use two of the most common types of ammunition available out there, 5.56 NATO and 7.62x39.

     

    Perhaps tone down your custom build here a bit for cost savings where it makes sense. Using traditional DI setup over the piston kit, and going with a quality forged upper/lower instead of billet will shave off enough $ to nearly net you a nice Saiga conversion in 7.62x39.

     

     

    Very good point, I feel the same way. I will do some research into a quality DI system.

     

    Any suggestions for parts?

  25. Posted

    Why a piston? Are you aware of just how reliable a DI AR is when properly set up? You do realize that in SHTF you will not be able to find parts for a non-standard AR.

     

    Read these links before buying any piston gun. I have nothing against piston guns, as long as they were designed with pistons in mind. The AR was not. Eugene Stoner intended the AR platform to be SIMPLER and MORE RELIABLE than the prevailing piston setups of the time. He had a chance to improve his platform one last time with Reed Knight, and he did by making the bolt bulletproof and calling it a century.

     

    Piston Failures

     

    The Big M4 Myth

     

    I was all set to buy a piston gun before reading the second article. It totally changed my perception. A lot of the hype surrounding piston guns was created to sell piston guns.

     

     

    I have read those in the past, and I somewhat agree with what you're saying about DI in a SHTF scenario.

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