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T Bill

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Posts posted by T Bill

  1. Posted

    I don't know if this is an issue here or not. Added a sling mount to a A2 type stock recently. The kit included a new stock retainer screw for the added space from the end of the existing tube and the butt end of the stock. After installing it the BCG didnt fully cycle, stopping short of a full stroke. Took out screw and replaced and problem when away. Cause....the screw was too long not letting the buffer fully cycle and holding up the BCG. That is the first time I ever experienced something that weird.

  2. Posted

    From the Father Frog’s Website…………………..

    Homemade Cleaners Firearm & Lubricants

    Gun Oil Substitutes

    Keep in mind that no matter what lubricant you use, you should use the minimum amount of lube possible. You want it lubricated and not an oil field.

    Synthetic Automotive Oils

     

    Synthetic automotive oils (such as Quaker State High Performance Synthetic, Castrol, and Mobil 1) work well as general lubricants and because of their detergent capabilities they will help to remove "crud." (Synthetic oils handle low temperatures better than regular oils.) Just remember, as with any lubricant, not to over lube things. Valvoline Semi-Synthetic Power Steering Fluid has also been used with great success by many folks as their normal lubricant.

    Slick Stuff

     

    This very "oily", (i.e. slick, greasy) lubricant appears to adhere very well to metal, with little or no creep. Thus it does not appear to drain from slides and parts during extended storage. From the formula it appears that it might not be suitable at very low temperatures.

    2 parts Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid 1 Part Mobil-1 Synthetic Oil, 30 weight, or 10W-30 1 Part STP Oil Treatment (the stuff for "old" cars w/ over 30,000 mi.)

    Thanks to John Nichols for this tip

    Amsoil

     

    Another excellent home brew lube is Amsoil Synthetic ATF with some lanolin added to make it even slicker. A synthetic grease from TS Moly (www.tsmoly.com) called Arctic Grade TS-67 also makes a great lube especially for cold weather. It is a totally synthetic moly grease with the consistency of chocolate mousse. It does not run, weep or smell (very important for the SAF (spousal acceptance factor)). It is reported to work fine at -30 degrees.

    Thanks to Roger Rothschild and Mike Gieger for this tip.

    Slippery Stuff

     

    Try 80 percent Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with 20 percent Slick 50 .

    Thanks to Jim Conway for this tip.

    Ed's Red Oil

    As a general bore cleaner, plastic wad remover, and carbon solvent the following formula, a creation of C.E Harris, and dubbed "Ed's Red" works quite well. In fact many folks claim it is better than anything they've tried. The original formula is:

    1 part Dexron II, IIe or III Automatic Transmission Fluid - GM Spec D20265 or later 1 part K1 Kerosene 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits federal spec TT-T-2981F (CAS# 64741-49-9) or Stodard Solvent/Varsol (CAS#8052-41-1) 1 part Acetone (CAS#67-64-1)

    Formula Addendum

    It has been reported that methyethylketone/MEK (CAS#78-93-3) can be satisfactorily substituted for the acetone if desired.

    It has been reported that Turpentine can be satisfactorily substituted for the Mineral Spirits if desired. The original Frankfort Arsenal formula upon which Ed's Red is based used turpentine rather than mineral spirits which were substituted for lower cost. Turpentine also tends to leave a gummy residue.

    It has been reported that Kroil penetrating oil can be satisfactorily substituted for the kerosene if desired.

    It has been reported that the lower numbered "JP" jet fuels can be used in place of kerosene.

    It has been reported that Goo-Gone (a commercial citrus based solvent) can be satisfactorily substituted for the mineral spirits if desired.

    It has been reported that commercial automotive "engine flush" can be substituted for the ATF (but you lose the red color).

    For each gallon of Ed's Red produced you can also add 1 pound of anhydrous lanolin (CAS#8006-54-0), which helps to neutralize fingerprints but it's really not necessary and current formulations generally omit it. You can also leave out the acetone but then it doesn't remove plastic wad fouling or penetrate as well. Store in airtight chemical-proof containers as the acetone, if used, will evaporate. Two sources for bulk anhydrous lanolin are http://www.selectoils.com/item--Lanolin--SO-Lanolin.html and http://www.thesage.com/ .

    According to Ed, "Ed's Red" will flow at -65

     

    oF and won't carbonize at 600oF. It has seen use by both the FBI and the Army Marksmanship Training Units.

    MIXING INSTRUCTIONS Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, or chemical-resistant, heavy gage NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers. Do

     

    NOT use light weight, thin, high density polyethelyne (HDPE), which is breathable, because the acetone will gradually evaporate. Don't use PVC containers as they will dissolve. A possible online source for metal 1 pint and 1 quart screw top metal containers suitable for storing Ed's Red is http://www.taxidermy.com . This site appears to be some sort of frames based design that does not allow you to link directly to containers, but you can find them via the following site links Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools. The Blitz USA line of approved gasoline containers can be obtained at Auto Zone, Home Depot, Walmart, Target, and other retailers and are what I use. (www.blitzusa.com).

    Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed.

    You can divert a small quantity, up to 4 ounces per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix for use as an "Ed's Red-compatible" gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the mix.

    INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING a) Insure that the firearm is unloaded and that all magazines are removed. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm to the touch from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with Ed's Red, wrap or impale on a jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.

    b) Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5" strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.

    c. For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled "rattle battle" guns, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.

    d) Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed's Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for up to 30 days. If the lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years.

    e)

     

    Wipe spilled Ed's Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed's Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes and it could damage some plastics if left in prolonged contact.

    f) Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush or jag. First shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed's Red if the bore is cleaned as described.

    It has been reported that when Ed's Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a thorough flush with Ed's Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean

     

    twice, two days apart, whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the residue out.

    Thanks to Jim Dodd for the above instructions

    An unusual use for Ed's Red. Several correspondents report that an application of ER to an ant hill, especially fire ants, kills 'em dead.

    Also, Ed's Red is very penetrative and makes a superior penetrating oil for loosening rusted parts. In fact in some testing by a machinist's magazine a couple of years ago it beat

     

    all the

    commercial products by a wide margin. A dedicated ER penetrating solution can be made by just using a 50-50 mix of ATF and acetone.

    A historical note about Ed's Red. When Ed Harris first cooked it up, it exceeded the then current Mil Specs for bore cleaner and CLP. Ed and a cohort were able to test it at a defense contractor's quality lab after hours with chrome-moly and stainless samples provided by Kreiger Barrels.

    Eds Red Plus

     

    This variation on the Ed's Red formula gives it a copper removing ability similar to the commercial bore cleaner Marksman's Choice MC-7. You will need:

    11 ounces of basic Ed's Red 2 ounces of 10%-20% industrial strength ammonia 2 ounces of Rustlick WS-11 cutting oil or suitable alternative 1 ounce of Murphy's Oil Soap

    Mix the oil soap and ammonia in a separate container. In a suitable 1 pint container containing 11 ounces of Ed's Red, add the cutting oil and mix together. Then add the oil soap/ammonia mixture to Ed's Red/ cutting oil and shake the container to mix the ingredients. You will end up with a pink opaque liquid that for the most part remains in solution, but some components may settle out over an extended period. It is always best to shake well before using. The resulting solution will remove mild copper deposits in bores if allowed to work about 15-20 minutes.

    Water soluble cutting oils and rust inhibitors can be obtained online from http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/nnsrhm or locally from your industrial supplier. NAPA auto stores carry a soluble oil listed as NAPA Soluble Cutting and Grinding Oil," part number SL SL2512. Metal screw top containers can be obtained from http://www.taxidermy.com under | Products | Molding and Casting | Containers, Cups and Tools.

    Thanks to Bill Mecca for this information.

    You can link directly to that frame by using this URL http://www.taxidermy.com/cat/18/tool.html, but there's no link back to their home page from there.

    Thanks to Patrick Larkin Jr. for this tip.

    In a pinch you can use straight mineral spirits as a rather good bore cleaner.

    See the ER recipe for an ER compatible oil. Just a 50/50 mix of ATF and K1 kerosene. Straight ATF works very well too.

    Lanolin

     

    We've mentioned lanolin in several places as an ingredient, but liquid lanolin also makes a very good warm weather, lubricant for high pressure wear spots like sears and other wear point all by itself. It also is an excellent preservative/rust proofer (well known to marine users in that role). It has also been used as a bore conditioner for .22RF barrels by running a lanolin soaked patch

    through a clean bore, followed by dry patches until nothing remains on the patches.. An Australian company called Lanotec (www.lanotec.com.au) sells liquid lanolin in an aerosol can but I'm not sure if it's available in the US.

    Thanks to Dave York for reminding me of lanolin as a lube.

    Automotive "moly" Grease

     

    Excellent for sears and hammer notches - just use a little.

    NOTE: WD40 is NOT a satisfactory lubricant for firearms as it tends to become gummy as it dries.

  3. Posted

    They do................Brass they feel has been reloaded enough. Usually about 5 times on 5.56 full loads. They have found out that reloading that brass any more times lead to more problems. I have seen this many times at ranges. To lazy to pick up and discard. Overused brass is a potential problem. Milsurp brass with crimp still in OK. Milsurp Brass without crimp ring and silver primers left on range needs special looking at. I myself avoid them on ranges and never in 25+ years have had a problem with brass.

  6. Posted

    Have run weekend clays events at schraeders before. Great for a Fall Weekend. In fact in the planing stages now as we rent the entire plantation house for the weekend. Back to the original subject..... Look up woodloch pines in the poconos, very nice place

  7. Posted

    Kuiken Bros in Sussex, NJ or Warwick, NY, or Ogdenburg, NJ (near your 20) and Dykes Lumber in Ramsey, NJ or Tallman, NY have the largest assortment of trim and related materials in the area. See what their catalogs say. The only other lumber yards I know that might have are Exclesior in bloomingdale, NJ or Newton, nj (they are related to Kaslanders in Newark. They all have trim catalogs at the counter.

  10. Posted

    if you order powder and primers, be aware there will be two hazmat fees (25.00 each) as they cannot be shipped in the same container. Rules, Rules, Rules. Make a day of it go to gun shows. Check T&T Reloading. His website home page (bottom left) will tell you what show he's going to the nex weekend. Can be sure its one of the bigger shows and he will not be the only one there selling reloading supplies.

  18. Posted

    ALL ITEMS ARE SOLD OR SPF. THANK YOU ONE AND ALL.

     

    I have some SKS Rifles and ammo I don't use anymore. Looking to sell for cash.

     

    Russian SKS. 1954 Tula Arsenal refurbished. All matching numbers. Very clean gun, inside and out. Cleaning kit in buttstock. Mild handling marks. Less than 500 rounds.

    Selling for $375.00 SOLD

     

    Riflerussia1.jpg

     

     

     

    Chinese SKS Apprx 1979. All matching Numbers. Very clean gun, inside and out. Cleaning kit in buttstock. Mild handling marks. Less than 1,000 rounds.

    Selling for $275.00 SOLD

     

    riflechina1a.jpg

     

     

     

    Chinese SKS Apprx 1978 "Cowboy Companion" 16" carbine barrel, no bayonet. Comes with twist on/off Muzzle brake. NOT all matching parts. But, still very clean and functional. Cleaning kit in buttstock. Stock solid, but buttstock has some discoloration, and handling marks.

    Selling for $225.00 SOLD

     

    riflechina2a.jpg

     

    riflechina2c.jpg

     

     

    I have 4- 50 cal ammo cans each with 500 rounds Russian Mil Surplus (762x39) ammo with 10 stripper clips. Steel cased. 70's and 80's production. Just what these rifles were made for.

    Selling for $75.00 per can. ONE CAN SPF. THREE CANS SOLD.

     

    ammorussian.jpg

     

     

    I have East German "Gallery Rounds". 63 Grain plastic training ammo 10/pkg. Corrosive Primer. $1.00/Pkg. 130 pkgs available.

    Will cycle AK's, iffy with SKS. Don't know about Saiga. Reduced recoil. Accurate 50-100 yards. SOLD

    ammoegerman.jpg

     

     

    Commercial Packaged Ammo

     

    PMC 30.06 180 gr PSP 20/box. Brass Fully Reloadable $8.00/box 50 26 boxes available. SOLD

     

    ammopmc.jpg

     

     

    SAMSON 308 180 gr PSP Match Grade 20/Box Brass Fully Reloadable $10.00/box 12 boxes available. SOLD

     

    ammosamson.jpg

     

     

    NORINCO 308 147 gr FMJ Copper washed steel case non-corrosive. $7.00/box 28 boxes available. SOLD

     

    ammochina.jpg

     

     

    I also have 25 late issue M2A1 (50 Cal) Ammo Cans available at $10.00 each. SOLD

     

    NEWAMMOCAN.jpg

     

     

    I am planning to be at Shongum on Saturday 4/7/12 during the USPSA Match, however I may not be there until noon time as I have an AM appointment, trying to get it changed. Please see me there if you are interested in any of these items. Small lots of the commercial ammo are OK. I am in NW Warren County but willing to make arrangements. If you need more info IM me.

     

    With most all items listed sold/spf I will NOT be going to Shongum tomorrow. However I will try to make arrangements for those that want ammo cans.

  20. Posted

    Each pallet contains a minimum of 144 cans. Some lots go as high as 288 or more. Lately going price per can at auction is $6.00 and up. Add 10% auction fee and the state sales tax. You then have 10 days to pick them up. But, you must have an appt. They tell you what day and time frame. Sometimes you load yourself. I did a 168 can pallet out of Harrisburg about 2 months ago. Fort Dix has one that ends today. Last I checked almost 1700.00 plus 10% plus 7% state sales tax for 288 m2a1 (50 cal) cans on two pallets (About 7.00 can already). Starting to get out of hand. I may have some left over from my last lot. If so, I will list on Marketplace.

  22. Posted

    US Law Test

     

    Below is a link to a 30-question test to see how well you know US Law.

    Not exactly grade-school level. Give it a shot, and see how well you do!

     

    Supposedly 96% of all High School Seniors FAILED this test ... AND if that's not bad enough, 50+% of all individuals over 50 did too!! Take the test and be surprised at what we don't know.

     

    http://games.toast.net/independence/

  23. Posted

    NRA Article 3 Section 6 of the bylaws state that life members or annual members with five consecutive years of membership aged 18 and US citizen can vote. Those members of record will receive ballot in magazine. Located between pages 42 and 43

  25. Posted

    Pic 1 shows a leaky air bleeder. It is leaking water out (not good) but it does not let air in. Pic 2 shows no pressure (Not Good). If the system cannot hold pressure, then that must be checked out first. You are right to ask do I have enough water in the boiler. However, if the line to fill the boiler is open and there is no pressure (assuming the gauge is correct) many items need to be checked out. At this point if you are in the dark on how to check it out it is time to seek to advice of a HVAC dude. Fill valve may not work, expansion tank NG, Leak in system, etc. Even if the system does not have a leak it should hold some pressure from the action of the expansion tank. Other pics show these bleeders need 2b replaced also.

     

    Again be safe here. You do not want to play with 180 degree hot water under any pressure.

     

    Seek professional help if you do not understand you system.

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