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T Bill

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Posts posted by T Bill

  1. Posted

    When you purge your heating zones you are forcing moving air entrained water out of the system with new water(something like turning on a garden hose- out comes some air with the water). You are not draining the system. The auto fill on the boiler will let new water in. The circulator pump sometines does not move the water fast enough to purge air trapped at the high spots in the line. Water pressure flushing the lines will. Modern hydronic heating does not need bleeders at the top of most residential homes. A good purge is more than sufficient. A check of the air bleeders on the boiler and the top of the air purger is really necessary. These bleeders are what keeps small pockets of air out of your system (top of boiler and supply line to zones). Good Luck!

  2. Posted

    Make sure you water inlet to the boiler is open and the boiler temp/pressure gauge shows a reading of 10-20 psi. That means there is sufficient water in the boiler. If not check for proper boiler water levels and pressure first.

     

    If you have hot water baseboard heat, you have air in the lines. To get rid of the air you need to bleed each of the two zones. Near where the lines return to the circulator pump should be a valve or fitting you can connect a garden hose to. this is for bleeding the lines. Run a garden hose to the outside or a drain and open the valve, If your fill line is open, water will run through the lines forcing out the air. After you feel confident this has happen close the valve and then do the other zone. Now make sure the pressure guage on the boiler reads 15-20 PSI. This is caused by the expansion tank and the valve it connects to that keeps your boiler up to minimum pressure and keeps the boiler full of water. Next, You should have 2 air purgers on your system. One on top of the boiler and one on top of the air purger valve that is located on top of the supply line that feeds the two different zones. These air purgers fail and should be replaced when they fail to vent air from the system. They are cheap and easy to replace, but care must be used to replace them when little or no pressure is in the system and is has cooled down.

  5. Posted

    Trees down everywhere, but none knocked out my power. Lots of near misses. However, only 3 blocks down the street lost power for 2 days. I feel I am pushing my luck! Especially in winter the ice always takes out several trees in my area. I have since ordered a generator from Costco :) Even if I never use it, I will sleep better at night. Got one big enough to run my well (220) and heat (110). I will install a dpdt switch so I can isolate the device, and add a locking socket for a safe connection. Now, the generator should be grounded to earth, and my household wiring is grounded to earth, so do I also have to isolate ground for the device, or is it good as all is earthy?

     

    Technically yes..... separate 3 ft cooper rod driven in ground greater than 3ft away from other gounding rod. For me, using car jumper cable from generator grounding lug to grouding rod for house panel.

     

    Now on day 7 no electric. Two houses each on a 5600 watt Generator still chugging along. Gas costs are terrible running genset for 15 hours a day. JCP&L says maybe by end of today, however not counting on it.

  6. Posted

    They do been using them for a while now. Stainless steel only for cookware! Whisperlite stove is good also. both my boys winter camp. they love it! 20 degress out and they are playing around like its summer.

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