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MartyZ

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Posts posted by MartyZ

  1. Posted

    I just called manalapan PD, they have since changed their policy to once a week. But I still have to call on monday to get that weeks schedule and it's still 9am to 12pm. That means I still have to take 3 days off from work. Is there a NJSP requirement that local PD have evening hours for permits or no? If not, then calling NJSP is useles

  3. Posted

    I have a question, can I go to the NJSP for P2P if going to my local PD (Manalapan PD) is extremely inconvenient? The reason I ask is that in the past, the permit hours were alway 4pm to 7pm every tuesday and thursday. Now they changed it to 9am to 12pm, one day a month and you have to call them on monday of every week to check if they are doing it that week. I work 60 miles from home that means that I have to take at least 3 days off for the entire permit process and it will take me about 4 months to get the permit. For instance, pick up applications in Feb, drop off applications in March and then wait 2 months to pick up permit. I have a few friends that have gone thru this process and it is a major PITA.

  4. Posted

    I used to be a shore shot member. Not all their employees are bad but on multiple occasions the 2 guys working the counter on Saturday mornings just pissed me off. I bring my friend there to buy 2 pistols from them and when I express my opinion to my friend regarding what they were showing him they both looked at me like I was crazy. On another occasion, they would refuse to help us all together. Also, at shore shot, if your shooting rifle ammo, better be frangible. That frangible stuff kept jamming my AR. I am now shooting at Brick Armory, all the sale people are extremely friendly. You can shoot any rifle ammo up to 300 winmag. They custom orderred a Kriss super V for me and even matched shore shots price. But as someone mentioned earlier, their range is somewhat lacking in safe behaviour. On the other hand, I almost got kicked out of shore shot for loading a magazine outside of the stall.

  5. Posted

    Your problem may be that the sights have been changed. Those are not stock S&W sights. While the bases of the sights (both front and rear) are stock someone has changed the blade in the rear sight and installed some kind of upward projecting insert in the front sight.

     

    I, first would let someone else shoot the gun, just to confirm that it is the gun and not you - and if the results are the same, change out the sights to the stock arrangement or a more suitable aftermarket one.

     

    I know that you have spoken with HG about the barrel change, but if it comes down to changing the sights, I'd let an experienced S&W smith handle that or make recommendations as to what sights (if other than stock) to change to. It will involve a bit of a ride for you, but cheaper than shipping. PM me if it comes to this alternative.

     

    Adios,

     

    Pizza Bob

     

    Those are meprolight tritium sights, I had those installed. But I had the same issue with the original sights. I also tried hogue rubber grips. Again, I think it might be me, I am a lot better with semi-autos. Maybe I just need more experience with a revolver. But next time I go to the range I will definately have someone assist me.

  6. Posted

    Accuracy is not the problem, sight picture is. My POA has to be approx. 1" above my target at 10 yards. This is not so much a problem when I'm putting holes in paper, I can adjust. But in a real life situation, this could be a problem. I thought that by increasing the sight radius I would solve the problem. I read something online were the grip position on these models mught affect the barrel rise which would affect POI, the artical said that these models should be gripped high where the web between the thumb and trigger finger is on the flat part all the way at the top of the grip. I will try that next time I go to the range.

     

    Sorry, i'm not selling it any time soon :no: .

  8. Posted

    Seeing all the comments here I now starting to seriously think that I would be making a big mistake by changing the barrel. I will take it out to the range in a few weeks, maybe it's just a mis-understanding between me and the sights :fie: . It is a beautiful gun though.

    CIMG1986.JPG

  15. Posted

    Even trying to boresight the gun, with the rear sight bottomed out (Sorry topped out), the laser is below the POA when I have the front sight and rear sights lined up horizontially. I will trying the filing trick to see if that works.

  16. Posted

    In reality, the biggest problem I have is the sight radius. I don't know if it was a design flaw in that model but at 25 yards or closer, no matter how you adjust the rear sights the POI is always lower than the POA. This is the model with the integrated metal front sight, not the plastic one. If I can figure out how to fix that, I might reconsider.

  17. Posted

    The conversion does include the barrel, $106.99 + shipping(midwayusa) for barrel and $90(Heritage Guild) for labor. I would sell it and buy a new one if it wasn't for the headache of getting a PPP. My local PD only does the permits 9am to 1pm once a month with no set day of week. You need to call them on Monday every week to see if they are doing permits that week.

  18. Posted

    Ok folks, I have a S&W 686-4 (1994) with a 2.5" barrel. I am seriously considerring changing the barrel to a 4" or 6". I can get it done local for about $200 total. The reason I want to change the barrel is 1) reduce felt recoil, 2) increase accuracy. I need suggestions as to pros/cons of 4" vs. 6".

  19. Posted

    Ok, I just called heritage guild back and they want $90 for the labor and I found the 4" barrel on midwayusa for $106.99 and 6" for $121.99 but both are on backorder. Looks like i'm going to wait for midwayusa to have them in stock. Still trying to decide whether I want 4" or 6". This is mostly a range gun from which I shoot mostly 38 special from. Is there much of an accuracy difference betwen 4" and 6"?

  20. Posted

    I wanted to have the work done at a local gunsmith, but everyone i've called doesn't do this type of work. The only place were I didn't get a NO from is heritage guild, and that's only because they haven't returned my call yet. I will try calling them again. I would much rather have it done locally.

  22. Posted

    I have an S&W 686 (.357 mag) with a 2.5" inch barrel. I contacted S&W and got a quote for a 6" barrel of $145.37 for the barrel and approx. $90 for labor. This is a pretty good deal, however I am a little hesitant shipping the gun to S&W myself out of NJ not being familiar with NJ law regarding this specific topic. Has anyone done this? Should I have my FFL ship it just to be safe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  24. Posted

    Just make sure you don't have all the parts that would facilitate putting together an as-NJ-defined "AW". For instance, you can remove the pistol grip, keep it at a friends house until you are finished pinning the stock. I typically have the stock shipped to an alternate location, then take my drill, roll pin, hammer, punch, and epoxy over there to complete it before taking it home.

     

    Wonderful NJ.... 10 years in the slammer because your stock adjusts a few inches. Hurts my brain every time I think about it.

     

     

    Dan, so I can have it deliverred to my work address and pin it at work? Does the fact that my name is on the order or is it only the location of all the parts that matters?

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