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twong11219

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Posts posted by twong11219

  1. Posted

    Nice to see this ole thread coming back to life. Inspired by some great smiths out there, I built this stainless CCO in 10mm.Let's add another log to the fire. Here's my lightly customized Delta. Added a match bushing, new trigger, EB beavertail, dovetail FS and original Bomar rear sight. Top was flattened and 40lpi serrations.

    20200904_144857.jpg

  5. Posted

    That should be correct on what Vlad said. From the Apex vids on YouTube, if no safety and it's not an older generation model, you're GTG. If you do have an older gen model, S&W and Apex sell the rear block to allow for RAM installations.

  6. Posted

    I tried the Burwell trig job. Only thing I didn't do was reshape the sear as that's a one way deal to the trash bin if overdone. I did polish all the contact surfaces though. Overall the smoothness of the trigger pull was greatly improved from stock parts and I was able to shed off ~0.75-1lb. The largest gain in smoothing out the pull and getting rid of that gritty feeling is polishing that firing pin block. 

     

    I too wanted to revert back to stock if I wanted to. Eventually I got a Forward Set Sear and Trigger as a present. No more spongy flex of the S&W pivoting poly trigger but trigger reset feeling completely disappeared. Followed up with installing the Apex RAM. I like it a lot now. Creep is there but reduced and overtravel is negligible.

     

    My biggest sacrifice was that it's not Prod happy anymore. Any external modification to the firing mechanism, mainly the trigger for the M&P will dump you out of Prod in USPSA so stick with all the internal changes if you want to stay in Production. Also keep in mind where and how much you want to stipple if you go that route. Over-stippling certain areas will dump you out of Prod as well.

     

    As my M&P wasn't purely for USPSA Prod and more towards HD (got a tac rail for mounting a light), 3G (no safety to flip on/off) and maybe open div (got the Core model), not being able to do Prod was a small sacrifice for me. I've even used it in knockdown steel with a 9mm conversion barrel and a red dot mounted on the slide. By far the most versatile HG I own.

     

    Don't feel under equipped shooting other divisions. Your major disadvantage is that you'll be scoring as minor. Go for the AAs and you'll be right up with the rest of the bunch. Just need to be more critical with your shots and consider it a challenge. Just look at the Single Stack minors out there. The additional 2rds can make the difference in saving a reload. 

  14. Posted

    +1 on the RO. I was able to play with one up close and the workmanship is phenomenal for the price tag. Slide/frame fit was not sloppy, nor was it too tight. The barrel and bushing where fitted very well; no play when in battery. Extractor was radiused and tuned; not a common thing coming from a mfg. Trigger shoe showed signs of hand fitting. Comes standard with titanium firing pin. Machine work on the frame and slide were nice, straight and even. Quality work for the price tag.

     

    My only gripes would be that the disconnector rail and breech face was a bit rough with tool marks. So a little polishing there smoothed out the cycling of the slide. Secondly, the trigger pull was horrible. Rough pull with a lot of creep and over travel. Trigger was breaking at 6.5#. Upon disassembly and inspecting the parts, majority being MIM, the sear only had the primary angle cut. No secondary angle. Like they intentionally left it that way for a smith to do a trigger job. I polished and finished where SA left off, and now breaks at a crisp 4-4.25#. Once the trigger settles down from breaking in, it should settle at slightly under 4#.

     

    In comparison the the STI Spartan? Springfield all the way. I'm not a big S&W fan when it comes to their 1911s. The RO had the balance of classic 1911s with modern amenities people had to pay a smith to add on.

  15. Posted

    I don't have an STI ambi, but my EB ambi safety can start getting loose after a couple disassembly. Even though it may be loose, the right grip keeps it from fading out. The left and right safety is held together with a tongue and groove design. Friction holds them together. When it gets too loose, I pinch the groove on the right safety with a vise to tighten it up. That should help tighten it up.

  21. Posted

    Did you remove the sights or just paint it with them still installed? I'm thinking about refinishing my 1911 with creakote and buying the 1911 sight tool to remove them. I'm wondering when I reinstall them if it will scratch the coating right off sliding them back in.

     

    I removed the sights before spraying and baking. if the sights are tight, they'll be slightly tighter when putting them back on after coating depending on how many coats you lay down. If you coated thick, the sight may gouge out a little of the Cerakote. Mine was really tight as the fit was originally tight to begin with, it was super tight after coating. Although I scraped off some paint after I installed the sights, I still didn't get down to the metal. Cerakote bonds very well.

     

    No specialized sight tool was required to take the sights out. I used a brass punch and a hammer. Drifted the sights right off the dovetails. Now, if you have a GI style staked front sight, then just leave it there. Restaking the front sight is a PITA. If you are coating a light color, then just tape up the front sight.

     

    Be very careful of one thing. Don't spray each layer too thick. The coating will skin up while drying, then you'll develop a bubble when baking. If you got time, just let it sit and dry very well before baking. I haven't tried to see if that'll fix a heavy spray bubble but worth a try. You won't know you'll get a bubble till after baking.

  24. Posted

    it has happened once at both the past two matches i was shooting. so once out of about 10 mags. gun goes bang, slide goes back but doesnt grab the empty brass. slide goes forward and picks up new round, which gets caught behind case still sitting in breech, resulting in me losing match. i am concerned s&w wouldnt fix it because it is just an intermittent issue.

    Even though it's intermittent, S&W should honor a repair. That definitely sounds like extractor issue based on your description. Try the holding brass on the extractor test to see if the tension is there. Secondly, inspect the extractor hook to see if it's square or deep enough to grab some meat of the rim on the brass. Could just be a poorly cut extractor or weak extractor spring. Might be a simple matter of punching out the pin to remove the extractor, run a file to square the hook and make the pocket where the rim sits in the extractor deeper to get more contact with the rim. If you want to go more aggressive, instead of squaring the hook face, add a bit more angle to the hook like a saw tooth so the edge of the hook grabs the rim. Less likely to slip off the rim and will rely less on the extractor spring putting tension.

     

    Possibly polish the chamber too. If you reload, maybe the brass is bulging. Chamber check your rounds. The extractor may be slipping off the rim before full extraction to even contacting the ejector.

     

    When it happens again, pull the brass out and inspect the rim. If the extractor it's slipping off, there should be scratch marks at the edge of the rim that contacts the extractor.

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