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Scorpio64

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Posts posted by Scorpio64

  2. Posted

    Energizer plug in rechargeable power outage activated flashlight.    Not fancy but they just work.  An automated back up battery powered lighting system is cool and all that but for regular schmoes like me this little $9 doohickey does the trick.  Plus. I can take it off the wall, to get to my genny, without causing a hundred dollars worth of damage.

     

    btw, the link goes to a device that uses NiCad batteries.  Man, NiCad is, like, soooo 80's.

  3. Posted

    Not to mention, "unloaded" and "no loaded mags."   The reason for the latter (according to Nappen) is that the mag can be construed by a prosecutor as being part of the weapon.

    I know that the normal laws of the land usually don't apply in the DPRNJ, but...  I thought it was already determined that a loaded mag was not the same as having a loaded gun and that magazines, in and of themselves, were not firearms.  Think I read that in a thread about loading mags to save time before going to the range.  As long as the mags and the rifle were in separate locked containers it was (technically) all good.  ie, rifle in trunk, mags in a bag in back seat, or something like that.

     

    Naturally, I don't want to be the test case for this so I follow Nappen's advice.

  8. Posted

    Trying to help a friend with his RDS questions for his G17 gen4.  He only has factory sights as of now.  I'm reading up on the MOS mounting system.  Other than that, I'm clueless.  Is there anything y'all can add to help out with this project.

  9. Posted

    After looking into the "20 MOA" bases I cant really say that's what I have, per se.  It appears, if i've read the articles right, that the bases on the 20moa bases are canted to accommodate certain reticles in extreme long distance shooting.  My riser and rings are not canted.

     

    The farthest I'll get to shoot for a while will be 300 yards.  I know these tight tolerances i'm aiming for wont make much of a practical difference right now.  tbh, i'm not even that good a marksman yet.  But still, I do love messing with numbers.

     

    I will probably get myself a chrono for x-mas.  I'll need/want that for when I get into reloading.  I'm using PPU .223 75gr OTM mostly and according to reviews, the velocity seems to be pretty consistent.

  10. Posted

    OK that is what I do as well. But I don't break the CL of Bore to CL of optics into thousandths.  I try to get as close as a 1/16" and I'm good to go.

    Now I've never really thought this through but any error in distance between in the height (let's say 1/8") would be carried through out the trajectory and arc and can be adjusted out by one vertical click of the scope since CL bore to Optics are parallel.  Now if using a 20 or other MOA base I'd have to think about it.

     

    As it so happens, the Leupold Mk 1 cantilever base plus the Weaver rings do add up to almost exactly 20MOA.  1.044".

     

    I know this is splitting hairs to many people but this is how I do things.  Shooting is not just a sport to me, it's also a science.  I enjoy both aspects.

  11. Posted

    I'm not following you there...the flat bottom of the receiver is the datum for both the center of bore and the top of the rail which is why you can subtract the two and what you're left with is the distance from the top of the rail to the center of the bore.

     

    Then if you have a precise rail-to-center measurement of your scope mount, add that and you're GTG.

     

    There is a lip under the BAP which adds an unknown value.  The 1.250 figure is close, but it does not account for (subtract) the lip under the BAP.

  13. Posted

    If you look at page 8 here http://www.firearmfiles.com/files/AR15/ar15upper_flattop.pdf it looks like

     

    1.875-0.625 = 1.250

     

    EDIT: looks like the same info as T Bill's. Too slow today...

     

    I've seen that pdf.  The problem is, the measurement (1.875) is taken from the outer diameter of the barrel attachment point.  Id need to know the receiver wall thickness, subtract that from 1.875 and then subtract .50 from the one inch diameter of the BAP.  So I'm still unclear about the measurement.

     

    Edit: Correction.  1.875 is the measurement from the top of the rail to the bottom of the receiver where it mates with the lower.

  15. Posted

    Come to think of it, there was a guy at Gene's last month looking to sell a Kreighoff trap gun.  I believe he was asking only $17,000 for it.  Thousands in savings, a real bargain.

  16. Posted

    Shotgun FIT is the FIRST Priority.  Everything else is secondary (including LOOKS--unless you need THAT to fall back on after you keep missing birds :)

     

    I'm going to have to just go ahead and agree with you there Smokin50.  I had been shopping around for about a year, not very seriously though, for an O/U to get back into trap shooting.  One day I was at Salomon's on other business and asked Gene what he had in the way of "affordable" O/U's.  He handed me the Citori Lightning and I immediately knew it was the one.  The LOP and balance just happened to be right for me, but only by coincidence.  The first time out with it, I shot a 16, 19 and 21 respectively.  Not fantastic scores by any stretch but very good scores for someone who had not shot trap in 20 years. 

     

    Figure out your budget, then go out to some LGSs and get some scatter guns in your hands.  When you have the right one for you, you will know.

    • Like 1

  18. Posted

    Okay, so let's assume my scope magnification values are actually 4-12 power, not the rounded off retail packaging values found on many scopes.. 

     

    If I zero the scope at 100m on 12 power, then dial it back to 6, and move the target out to 200m and hold the crosshairs on center of target, where will the poi be?  Will it be one dot under the crosshairs?  one dot being 1 mrad which should equal 10 cm under the target center.

     

    btw, the scope i'm currently looking at is a Leupold Mark AR 4-12x40AO.  Oddly enough, the actual power of the AO versions in this scope line are the actual power. 

     

    Yanno...  the more i think about this the more i'm thinking i'm going to go with a moa/moa scope instead.  the conversions are killing me.

  22. Posted

    On the recommendation of High Exposure, I bought an ADM QD mount and lower 1/3 riser for my PA mini red dot.  It is extremely solid and maintains zero.  The first time I took it to the range I detached and reattached it after every mag, I think I went through 10 mags that day, and it kept the zero.  Plus, they sent me some cool ADM stickers too.  Who doesn't like stickers :D

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

    If you decide to get a vortex go to BHPhotovideo.com. They have great prices on Vortex. I got a Diamondback HP 3-12 for $269 and they are selling the 4-16 for $299. Just click on the "email me a better price" link. Oh, and I also got free shipping, $25 gift card, and a pair of smith range glasses with 2 lenses. All for $269. Will be using the $25 gift card towards my next Vortex for my .308

     

    It's funny, B&H, PA, Midway, SWFA, OP all have the same price within a few cents, $569ish for the Viper HS-t 4-16x44.  Most have free shipping too.  Some even offer flip caps and/or sun shades to sweeten the deal.  I know I could easily pay more than double than $570 for a good scope but man, my wife is going to kill me.  My original budget was $400.00 and I planned on reusing the Burris rings I have on the SPR now.

     

    I'm starting to second guess this purchase and revisiting the PA 4-14x40 FFP w/ACSS reticle.  But blech... It's made in the PRoC.  At first I was looking for an American made scope.  After I quickly realized I could not afford a Leupy with the features I want, and Redfield didn't make what I wanted, then I started thinking about Jap and Filipino made scopes.

  24. Posted

    Actually Mark, the chairs are purchased by donors. If these are the same track chairs I've seen on news shows, O'Reilly talks about them frequently, they cost about $15k new and they are bought buy wealthy people who donate the chair to vets.

     

    I'm glad you brought this up because it makes the idea I had yesterday sound less stupid.  I was going to suggest finding someone who could afford to buy the chair and then they donate it to a charity or an individual.  It becomes a win win.  the seller gets the much needed cash, the buyer gets to make a donation and get a substantial tax write off to boot.

  25. Posted

    I personally like the Nikon BDC, and use one in my Monarch 2.5-10. Their online calculator makes hold overs at different distances very easy.. Personally for range use, I think most of these reticles are over kill because you can adjust them to zero for what ever distance you target is. I believe the mil-dot offers the best when it comes to gauging distances using objects in the field.

     

    I've heard noting but great things about Nikon optics.  I just could not get past the bulbous BDC reticle.  It looked kinda funky to me.  However, I did just learn that Nikon offers a mil/mil in the Monarch 3 series.  Aside from the 2mm difference in the objective and 1" tube (Nikon) vs 30mm tube (Vortex) there is little difference between the Nikon Monarch and the Vortex Viper HS-T  I believe the Nikon is a bit more compact too.

     

    Here's the thing though.  Nikon only offers a limited lifetime warranty while the Vortex comes with an unconditional (moron proof) warranty.  The difference in price is pretty much $100.00 so I have to ask myself; Is the better warranty worth a Benjamin?  One more thing.  Upping to a 30mm tube means I have to drop some coin on a new mount too.  Decisions decisions...

     

     

     

     

     

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