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Scorpio64

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Posts posted by Scorpio64

  3. Posted

    Two years ago I inherited a lightly used 2008 Legacy from a little old jewish man (father-in-law) who never drove it to synagogue once. .  I love it.  Impressed by the handling, drives like it's on a rail.  A bit under powered but still peppy.  What really impressed me is how it handles in the snow.  while all kinds of 4x4s were stuck in the snow after the blizzard, I never once even slipped, much less got stuck.  Amazing AWD for a low to the ground car.  The only bad thing I have to say about it is the windows dont seal well and I get a lot of noise from that.

  5. Posted

    I've been there a few times.  It's a nice place, friendly, not a huge firearms selection.  Sent a friend with a P2P there and he walked out with a facial deformity as a result of the ear to ear grin he had after buying a near mint used S&W .357 snubby.  It's a classic old school outdoorsman sporting goods store.  Reminds me a little bit of what Bob Kislin's used to be.

  6. Posted

    I used to go to SA for 12GA target and hunting loads, clay pigeons. bought some throwers there and and other sundries for waterfowling and clay busting.  Once they stopped selling what I wanted, I stopped going.  Maybe it was the antis, maybe it was the mountain of regulations they had to deal with in NJ.  Probably a combination of the two.  In the end, I'm still shooting and they are gone. 

  8. Posted

    Why would you need a gunsmith to mount the barrel? There is literally only one way to install it. The only receiver I know that is complicated are BCM's under spec forged uppers. And a little heat gets it to slip right on. The barrel is probably the easiest part of everything to install.

     

    I didn't "need" a gunsmith to mount the barrel.  I wanted a gunsmith to do it.  It's the one thing I wanted done with absolute precision because it is a precision rifle.  For any other run of the mill AR, yes, I'd mount it myself.  Any monkey can do it.

     

    EDIT:  btw, it is a BCM upper receiver on my SPR.  That bitch was tight.

  11. Posted

    Buy both, as much as you can, as fast as you can.  Having an overstock of ammo, powder or primers is never a bad thing.  Even if you wont reload or shoot the ammo for another five or ten years, it's a good investment.  Just think how much ammo has gone up in the past five years.  It ain't ever going to get cheaper and if you decide to get out of shooting altogether, it's the one thing you can be certain will sell for a profit.

  16. Posted

    Well, I cant really agree that is a free float system with vestigial components remaining.  DD and others may call it that for marketing, and it may but the objective of FF is to eliminate as much harmonic interference from the barrel as possible.  I still stand by my statement that 2 piece drop ins are great, but I cannot agree that it is truly free floated.  In any case, if what the OP actually wants is just  a 2 piece drop in rail to add more goodies, it's a mute point anyway.

  17. Posted

    Incorrect.

     

    The DD Omega 7 and Omega 9 rails are fully free floating.

     

    https://danieldefense.com/rail-systems/omega-rail/omega-rail-7-0-carbine.html

     

    They are a 2 piece design that clamps directly to the barrel nut and are held fast with four set screws, all without the need to remove the delta ring.

     

    They rails stop just short of the end cap so nothing has to be removed or altered.

     

    If I remember correctly, they were designed to provide a free float fore-end on a rifle that, by policy, could have no permanent alterations - many LE and .gov agencies have this policy.

     

    So, no part of the 2 piece drip in FF touches anything but the barrel nut?  If the gas block does not come off, what happens to the end cap?

  18. Posted

     

    Does anyone know of rock solid freefloat handguard which would be simple to install without removing the delta ring?

     

     

    I don't know why nobody has addressed this yet but, here goes.  If you keep the delta ring, standard barrel nut and end cap, you will not have a free floated hand guard.  I believe what you may be looking for (or referring to) is a  two piece "drop in" handguard. but that type of HG is not free floated.  If you do, in fact, want to free float the HG, you will have to remove just about everything from the barrel.  Free floated HGs do not touch anything other than the usually proprietary barrel nut that comes with it.

     

    What has been mentioned, is that it's a bad idea to mount an optic in such a way that it bridges the receiver and hand guard.  This is absolutely true.  Even if the mount is a one piece, any flexing between the HG and the receiver can throw off the zero by a few degrees..A two piece mount will be worse. 

     

    I didn't see any mention of what optic(s) you will be mounting but in any case, you can use a cantilevered mount that hangs over your hand guard.  If you are using a low power fixed or variable magnification tactical scope, you can get a one piece cantilevered mount. Easy peasy.  If you are using a red dot with a magnifier, look at Checko's rifle for a good example.  The red dot hangs over the HG and the magnifier sits behind it.

     

    You certainly do not need to free float the HG to have a good accurate rifle.  Personally, I do not like the look or feel of a spiky quad rail but that's just my own opinion.  Midwest Industries makes excellent 2 piece drop in quad rails, M-Lok and Key-Mod compatible rails that use all of your existing hardware, hence the name "drop in". 

     

    Good luck, have fun and don't hoot your eye out kid.

  21. Posted

    Routers are meh.  They do not offer much security.  I disabled the router function on my Fios (in other words, put it in bridge mode) and use a ZyXel ZyWall firewall .  I've also used Sonicwall products.  One of the differences is that a firewall uses something called stateful packet inspection, too complicated to explain but it's like having a security guard and a bouncer at your virtual front door. I can detect bad behavior from the outside world and block it.   A $100 router just directs traffic, some offer a little security, but can't compare to a real firewall.

     

    Have a look at this. Great security that wont brake the bank.

     

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZX2RC8863

  23. Posted

    Call Howell Gun Works.  They don't carry a lot of reloading supplies but they seem to have the essentials.  Solomons is a great place too, but the hours are very limited.  Wed evenings and Sunday afternoon 1:00 to 4:00.

  24. Posted

    Try removing the brake pads next, but only one side at a time. That will help to accelerate the wear so your mechanic can fix something.

     

    My guess? The flasher fluid in your dummy lights are low.

     

    We'll see how the oil works out first.  If that does not fix it then I'll just take the pads off the rear brakes all together.  No pads, no grinding, Man, that grinding is annoying as hell.

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    pull one of the tires, and then the caliper. make sure that the pads are moving freely in their slides. what may be happening, is that they're not moving freely, till they warm up a bit. they may be holding too much against the rotor, thus making noise.....other than that, i'd hafta see it.....

     

    The grinding is only when the brakes are applied.  I don't hear any noise when coasting slowly (cold or hot) so I don't believe the caliper is hanging up.  Good guess though.. 

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