Scorpio64
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Posts posted by Scorpio64
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Trying to decide which material will work best for me. I've read a bit about the chrome lined and it seems the best argument for it is ease of cleaning, but it also appears that chrome lined is slightly less accurate than some of the alternative materials. Stainless on the other hand seems to last longer and, well, it's stainless and has it's own merits with regard to maintenance. If I go with stainless, I don't want it to be shiny and bright. I'll probably cerakoat the barrel.
Anyway, This is what I know I do want. Hammer forged, target crown, 18", Heavier than the standard barrel but lighter than a bull. Probably a govt. profile. Okay, maybe not sure exactly what profile to get but I know I want a profile that will improve accuracy. I'm not looking to build a sub MOA rifle, but I do want consistency.
So what are your thoughts on stainless vs chrome lined?
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That's about all the tools I have.
The way I figured it, an AR can be assembled using an average tool kit. Wrenches, hammers etc. But there are two things that will make the job a whole lot easier, an armorers wrench and an upper receiver vice block. Both tools can be had for under $75, a good investment if you plan on working on your own rifle(s). In one sense, the tools required for building an AR are similar to what you would need to get into reloading. You can get a Lee reloading kit for $30, very basic, all manual assembly, or you can spend $1,500 for a setup with all the bells lights and whistles.
TBH, it sounds like you are trying to talk yourself out of building an AR, which is fine if you don't like doing that sort of thing. If cost is your primary motivation, you will probably be better off buying a M&P or saving a couple hundred more and getting something like a Windham. Building your own AR is not terribly difficult, but it is serious business.
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The answer really depends on how mechanically inclined you are. If you can put a bicycle together, you can probably build an AR. I decided to build for two reasons. 1) I'm getting exactly what I want 2) It seems like fun. The M&P is a good inexpensive alternative to building but you may run into some issues if you try to customize it later on, it depends on the mod. Windham is a better choice if you want the ability to perform any mod you want and they don't cost much more. Mil Spec and commercial are both fine, but you have to pick one or the other, the parts are not interchangeable. Personally, I'd go with mil spec. Not because the parts are better, but because there are more parts available.
If you decide to build a plinker, start with a stripped lower blem, and the least expensive complete lower parts kit you can get then do the same for the upper. Blems are 100% reliable and even if you can find the cosmetic flaw it won't made a scrap of difference anyway. It don't have to be pretty or have an awesome trigger, it just has to work. Once you have shot, tweaked and cleaned your plinker for a bit and have the whole AR thing down pat, then go for the upgrades.
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Thanks, I thought as much but was not 100% sure. The full auto profile looks a little heavier, is there any benefit to going with a full profile over the lighter looking AR type?
EDIT: If I used a full profile, dose that change compatibility with the receiver or barrel? The general guideline I'm using for my build is MilSpec and M4 feed ramps. I do not want to accidentally buy incompatible parts or parts that will not operate optimally.
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As I'm shopping around for a BCG I'm seeing that many of them are described as "auto profile" or "full auto". Do these types of bolt make the gun into a full auto gun or is this some sort of marketing hype? I do not want to build a fully automatic rifle, even if I legally could do so I still prefer semi-auto. It just seems that there are a lot of BCGs out there with that description, too many to suggest they are actually intended to build a fully automatic rifle. I don't want to pass up a good deal on a well made BCG because it only appears to be a restricted item.
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Hops, on 12 Nov 2013 - 7:01 PM, said:
\the price was very good too.
Really?
I bought two AR lowers there last week for about $20 less than it would have cost from most other internet stores. For a NJ store, their prices are very reasonable, Ammo is priced a bit on the high end but not exorbitant.
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Although I'm partial to the 870, I say go with what feels best in your hands. They are both great guns.
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Howdy!
Blah blah blah.....Caliber will be 5.56/.223 with 62gn pills most likely.
I want it set up in a "Hunter" style with a skeleton stock, non railed narrow fore end, and glass on top. Barrel length TBD, but I'm thinking 18" bull. Not the heavy bull barrel but the medium.
That's all I've got for now. Feel free to let the education begin.
Christopher
Did you break into my house and read my AR research and build notebook?!? Holy cow, except for a higher power scope, you have pretty much spec'd out the exact same rifle I'm building. Well, maybe not the 5.56 part, I'll get to that in a minute. Like you, I'm not in love with the AR platform, (I love guns with wood, lots of wood) but the gadgety aspect of it does appeal to my inner nerd.
I'm seriously considering going with 6.8SPC. Like 80% sure I'll go with 6.8SPC for my first build. I bought two Anderson lowers last week (picking them up on Tues) and may build a 5.56 now and build a 6.8SPC upper after I got the standard rifle worked out. Basically, I'm going to build something now, do some more stuff to it then use the other lower to build something else and end up with two rifles.
As far as barrels go, it seems the thicker an longer the better ( no comments from the peanut gallery please) . For the 5.56 I'll probably go with a standard length 16" medium profile with no notch, no muzzle device either, just a nice target crown. If I can find a NJ legal hybrid device that doesn't bark too loud, I would be elated to find it. The Govt profile barrel seems to be a good option too.One thing that is definite is free floating the barrel. Not that much more expensive and a good return on the investment.
The skeleton stock looks very nice, Okay, nice is an understatement. It's kinda sexy. I'm having a tough time deciding between the skeleton and the MagPul something or other that has a similar profile to the skeleton. Yanno, I'm rambling here. Basically I'm in the same boat as you. So many options it boggles the mind. One last thing though. 1911 grips. I saw an AR with just one wood accent, apparently there is a pistol grip with 1911 grips for the AR that looks pretty sweet. Too many freaking options.
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I had a propane stove/oven at a place I rented a long time ago. It's good stuff. It burns a bit hotter than NG so be careful with that. I burned more than one dinner until I got used to it. 20# tanks do not last very long, see if you can buy a couple of 100# tanks off of Craig's list or wherever. The tanks are not terribly heavy and easy enough to move around with a hand truck. If you bring the tanks to a filling station it will be substantially cheaper than having the fuel delivered. .
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Cheyenne now has 22lr, but limit 3 boxes of 40 rounds for about $4 each box. They have bricks too, but won't sell them.
Many gun shops have been keeping some of their ammo off the shelf, in reserve so to speak, for new gun purchases. It's hard to sell a gun if there is no ammo for it. Kinda wierd that they are holding just the bricks though. Maybe they are holding it for a holiday sale or promotion.
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For deer; Buckshot is good, rifled slugs are better, a rifled barrel and sabot slugs are best. If you decide to go smoothbore and rifled slugs, IC is the optimal choke. If you go the way of the slug, a good low power fixed magnification scope will serve you well.
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bullseye tactical in woodbridge does
Bullseye is a pretty decent shop but items showing as "in stock" on the web site does not mean they have it in the shop. It just means their distributor has it and they can get it. Very friendly and knowledgeable peopple there, prices for NJ are not bad. The place has a little bit of that old fashioned department store vibe.
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Your best bet is on-line but Cheyenne Mountain Outfitters has ammo from time to time and the prices are not too bad.
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Well, if your range toy is also a "what if" rifle, and you want something really cool, with a wood stock, that wont be very expensive to reload.... How about a Mini-30. It's the closest you will get to a Garand designed M1without actually paying the price of a garand. Along the same lines, the Semi-auto M14 and especially the M21 (one of my favorites) are very sweet. There are only two semi-auto rifles I actually want. One is a pre 1945 service Garand, the other is the M-21. They ain't cheap, but reloading will be affordable.
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Gun will be a range toy.
Saiga's are even uglier than AR's. My opinion, of course.
I guess if I was to characterize what I'm looking for, it'd be a 10/22 chambered in .223/5.56. I also shot a friend's Winchester or Remington .308 semi. Gorgeous gun. Checkered walnut stock, iron sights and scope mounts. Accurate enough. But it's a .308.
My love affair with the caliber comes from the fact that reloading is easy and inexpensive. I don't currently reload any rifle calibers, but if I'm gonna, it'll be the .223. Cheap and easy to find... again. The low recoil is a definite plus as well as there won't be a buffer tube to mitigate it.
JT, I'd prefer a semi only because I would like the maneuverability and fast follow up of the semi.
C
That's pretty much a Ruger Mini. I get the economy of the round but if you will be reloading, you can step up to a low to moderate recoil caliber more commonly used in the type of rifle you are looking for without spending a fortune on components. I get where you are going with the classic styling with wood and all but you are not likely to find that in 5.56/223 chambered semi-auto. You should be able to find nice bolt action with the look you want. btw, if it's a range toy, why a fast follow up shot? Will you be using animated targets?
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There are very few non-AR rifles chambered in 5.56/223 out there. How in love are you with the caliber? What will be the primary purpose of your rifle?
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So I bought two stripped lowers today at Bullseye Tactical. Lert the build begin!
I'm shopping around for a BCG and could use some recommendations. I kind of like the look of NiB, are they worth the extra money? Looks aside, what should I really be looking for in a BCG? So many finishes to choose froom.
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The general consensus is that IC works best. Technically you can use any choke you want but it would be silly to force a big honking wad of lead through a full choke. You could also go with Cyl but you may get some blow by.
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The unsustainable policies of the left will eventually lead to a systemic failure of government. When that happens all hell will break loose and all the liberals will be clamoring for leadership to restore order. They will suddenly become very conservative in their views.
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The 870 is the standard waterfowler with the mossy 500 as a very close second. I'd say get an 870 but they are not making them like they used to. I bought my 870 Express in the mid 80's and it's a rock solid workhorse. The newer ones are tough but not as tough. If you can find an older lightly used 870 express with a 28" barrel, that would be ideal.
If you can spend a little extra money then consider a Savage O/U. They are not all that expensive and a pretty good value for what you get. The O/U is superior to a pump action in many ways but not too many hunters want to drag a $1,500 to $2,500 shotgun through the mud. A new Savage O/U can be had for well under $600. Hunting upland game or waterfowl with an O/U is just so much better than with a pump but a good pump will definitely do the job.
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Has anyone seen 22lr in any of the monmouth county shops? I'm just getting back into shooting, it's been nearly 20 years, and all my favorite places have shut down, moved or don't sell ammo anymore.
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This is sure to be a popular section and I'm happy to see it here. Some other forums frown upon this kind of topic as it invites some uuuuhhh, I'll just say, strange people. The only thing I'd like to say is the structure seems a litle busy. there are several sub-topics but no general discussion topics. Unless I missed it and this thread is the place for general topics. In any event, keep calm and carry on.
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Just doing a search on local FFLs and a new shop I never heard of popped up. Has anyone dealth with them?
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Great info Scorpio, thanks. Ruger American it is. I am new to hunting - IYO would taking a RAR .243 plus my .44 lever carbine for close work be a good strategy?
Edit: for some reason the 243 just appealed to me as soon as I read about it. It's based on the 30-30 cartridge right? I can't wait to shoot it on my 300y range...
Pizza Bob is right, one or the other. btw, the RAR does not come with open sights so a scope is a must. I don't hunt deer but from what I've read, deer hunters seem to like 3x9 or 4x12. Redfield was bought by Leupold a while back and they make some very good scopes right here in the US of A.
Anderson lowers at PSA $49.99
in Hot Deal Discussions
Posted
Anderson lower is fine in NJ. Tomorrow I'll be picking up two that I ordered last week at Bullseye ($80 ea.). PSA'a sale price is pretty good but by the time you pay shipping and ffl, it's probably cheaper just to get it from Bullseye. I dunno how ffl fees work with lowers. They usually charge a per gun fee. If you have to pay 30 or 40 bucks for each lower, it kinda ruins the deal. There is one possible exception, I called Gene Solomon to inquire about his FFL fee. He told me it would be $20 flat rate for any quantity of lower receivers.