Inc88

Wouldn't shoot 357 much out of it but figured if i can have that option I might as well.

How do you check the timing on a revolver?

Thanks for the replies! I'm also a reloader so 38/357 would be a new caliber i can add to my collection. I've asked around on other websites but most of the negative replays about Taurus I got were from people that didn't have any personal stories and were repeating stories they read on the internet or heard from a friend of a friend. I do plan on putting some miles on the gun too, my work hours allow me to shoot m-f before i go to work so I end up getting high round count through all my firearms lol. Another reason I like its price point is the money not spent go to ammo and reloading supplies lol

So I have an Ar15 lower that just sits after my most recent build and I've decided to try to sell it to help fund a new revolver. This will be my first revolver( not first pistol tho ) but I have shot my coworkers Taurus who recommended I check out the 605. I was checking a few out at the recent oaks gun show and I like the feel, the exposed hammer, and that its in 357. I know a snub nose 357 isnt practical but never the less id like to pick one up but I know ill mostly shoot 38/38+p out of it. I know Taurus guns have had issues in the past but from what I've read their revolvers are decent shooters. The price point is also a big factor for me ( trying to stay around 300$ ) otherwise Id probably check out a S&W or Ruger. Has anyone on here owned a 605 or have any hands on experience with one and able to give me the skinny on them? If you don't recommend one can you tell me what happened and do you know of any other snub nose 357s in DA/SA?

Yeah it was a pistol. Was hoping to avoid dropping another 160+ on a barrel.

Started life as a 10.5 ar pistol when i was in PA now im in NJ and would like to convert it to a rifle. The lower is apart and i sold off the trigger, pistol buffer tube, and pistol grip so i can add a drop in trigger, rifle buffer tube, and one of those gun fighter grips. I know lol. Seriously tho, a gunsmith that doesn't know that simple law is saddening...He was local enough to drive there and back and still have some time in my day to post pics of the gun when i got home lol I dont care about the can down the road just the barrel since me and my s/o have plans to go back to PA at some point but for the next few years we'll be here so id like to play with my gun till then( it was my high budget ar ). I know you can silver solder it but i hear that can damage the barrel ( ballistic advantage ). Id give it a shot myself but dont have access to tools

Unfortunately the guy i called said you cant have any barrel under 16" in NJ even if its pinned and welded to 16". I know thats not true but that shop wont work for me.

Unfortunately north jersey is way to far for me to drive to and from. I'm located in the southern area.

I have an AR pistol from when i lived in NJ that needs to become a rifle. The lower was broken apart so i could upgrade parts and before i finish it/buy the upgrades id like to take the upper to a shop and pin/weld this fake can on so i can to 16". http://shop.masdefense.com/7-FAKE-SUPPRESSOR-EXTERNAL-556-223-75EFS.htm My local shop says their gunsmith is 65$ and hour and cant give me an estimate how long it would take to get the job done. Since i dont want to roll the dice on spending up to 65$ or more I'd like to know what shops out there can do the job quickly and not cost me an arm and a leg. I live in Gloucester co. If able id like to find a smith/shop near where i live so i dont need to ship it out.

Doesn't seem worn out. When i press on the slide it doesn't click or wiggle. There is a tight spot when i take the slide off the frame but when i rack the gun its smooth all the way through.

Any steps / tips you could give me for checking for binding?

I dont think i understand what clapped out means? Extractor doesnt have the extension on the bottom ( ordered it from numrich-for this model jericho ) so i replaced it with the old one( with the wolff extra power extractor spring) for now since its worn but not broken. I might find a more correct extractor but other then the few times it ejects weakly in a row with the jamming issue it ejects fine otherwise. Ejector is replaced ( replaced the entire sear cage ) Chamber is polished and I have 2 new different types of mags Sear cage and pins are tight. As for heat, the gun will do this right out of the gate when i take it shooting all the way to the last mag i put in her at the end of 600 rounds. I dont know of any cause for malfunction that only occurs after a string of good function.

Really banging my head against a wall with this one.. The gun will eject absolutely fine then randomly with no noticeable cause start weakly ejecting about 10 or so round ( this is also when the gun will jam ) before going back to normal. This happens at any point in a mag and I cant imagine what would work well one second then stop working another. My LGS said its the recoil spring rotating in place around the guide rod to a worn spot then causing the issue for a short period of time but I've tried a new recoil spring and guide rod since then with no luck. I've also had no luck searching for anything that seems similar to these issues online..

When i said new ejector i meant i replaced the sear cage with one almost exactly like the one pictured in the album :/. The new sear cage's ejector is square and appears new. So other then getting an even lighter recoil spring than 14lbs I'm at a bit of a loss with this one.

Update. So I've tried a new extractor,mags,ejector,recoil/extractor springs,all types of ammo, and all types of ways to grip the gun with no luck. Still get stovepipes about once a box.