1 hour ago, 1LtCAP said:

most of the wood I have is oak. I've got a little maple, and somewhere mixed in is some cedar and a bit of cherry. which reminds me...a customer's got a bunch of cherry saved for me. I gotta get over to his place and grab it

 

Cedar shims at blows or depot. Easy peesy tinder and kindling 

btw @Displaced Texan can’t start a fire to save his life. But @voyager9 never worries bout these things in “ da bunker”

@gleninjerseywill most likely freeze in the next snowpocalypse

Jus sayen. Dumb wood people 

12 hours ago, fishnut said:

Well since were kinda on the topic of firewood. I'm in the market for a splitting tool. Should I get a spitting axe or a maul? @ChrisS I usually dont have large rounds 24" and under and I'll be splitting about 5 cords or less a year 

And no I dont want a hydraulic 

7 hours ago, Zeke said:

btw @Displaced Texan can’t start a fire to save his life. But @voyager9 never worries bout these things in “ da bunker”

That’s why I make my own fire starter. 

11 minutes ago, Displaced Texan said:

That’s why I make my own fire starter. 

I made my own fire starter too, well, technically, Bernz-o-matic made it.  I just attached the cylinder of MAPP gas to the torch.

 

13 hours ago, fishnut said:

Well since were kinda on the topic of firewood. I'm in the market for a splitting tool. Should I get a spitting axe or a maul? @ChrisS I usually dont have large rounds 24" and under and I'll be splitting about 5 cords or less a year 

And no I dont want a hydraulic splitter 

Fiskars x27 super splitting axe 36 inch.  Love mine.  Buy the sharpener with it.

4 minutes ago, CMJeepster said:

Fiskars x27 super splitting axe 36 inch.  Love mine.  Buy the sharpener with it.

Been looking at that one, lifetime warranty is nice too. Thanks I'll probably pick one up at the hardware store today

Just now, fishnut said:

Been looking at that one, lifetime warranty is nice too. Thanks I'll probably pick one up at the hardware store today

One shot, one kill, er, split.

9 hours ago, Zeke said:

Cedar shims at blows or depot. Easy peesy tinder and kindling 

btw @Displaced Texan can’t start a fire to save his life. But @voyager9 never worries bout these things in “ da bunker”

would hafta be lowes for me. i stop at those types of stores otw home from the shop. the depot in lawnside has gone to all self checkout. i refuse to use self checkout without getting a rather significant discount.......

14 hours ago, fishnut said:

Well since were kinda on the topic of firewood. I'm in the market for a splitting tool. Should I get a spitting axe or a maul? @ChrisS I usually dont have large rounds 24" and under and I'll be splitting about 5 cords or less a year 

And no I dont want a hydraulic splitter 

if your wood's relatively well seasoned......get a maul, and axe, sledge and a wedge. you'll need em all. if you wanna do it by hand. i was a stubborn sob, and tried doing that for the first season i had my stove. then i took the plunge and bought a 27 ton log splitter. best investment i made regarding my wood for heating.

1 hour ago, Scorpio64 said:

I made my own fire starter too, well, technically, Bernz-o-matic made it.  I just attached the cylinder of MAPP gas to the torch.

 

Dryer lint. Paper egg cartons. Wax. 

1 hour ago, 1LtCAP said:

if your wood's relatively well seasoned......get a maul, and axe, sledge and a wedge. you'll need em all. if you wanna do it by hand. i was a stubborn sob, and tried doing that for the first season i had my stove. then i took the plunge and bought a 27 ton log splitter. best investment i made regarding my wood for heating.

It will be green and frozen and everything is about 24" or less so it should split easy. This will be seasoned till next year. 

This is going to be cut and split in the woods and then hauled out in a sled. It would be very difficult to get a splitting machine to where I'll be cutting

2 hours ago, CMJeepster said:

One shot, one kill, er, split.

So your saying I should just use tannerite? 

A maul has always worked best for me.. its shaped to split wood and not cut it. Plus a good swing and it really does all the work for you. The back side is a sledge, too.

38 minutes ago, fishnut said:

It will be green and frozen and everything is about 24" or less so it should split easy. This will be seasoned till next year. 

This is going to be cut and split in the woods and then hauled out in a sled. It would be very difficult to get a splitting machine to where I'll be cutting

So your saying I should just use tannerite? 

how big's your stove? mine takes max 18", but i do better with my stuff cut to 16". it's tough to split sometimes when it's still green. sometimes gets stringy and doesn't wanna let go. do yourself a favor, and take a chainsaw into the woods, cut that stuff to length, load it, then split it at home

 

10 minutes ago, 1LtCAP said:

how big's your stove? mine takes max 18", but i do better with my stuff cut to 16". it's tough to split sometimes when it's still green. sometimes gets stringy and doesn't wanna let go. do yourself a favor, and take a chainsaw into the woods, cut that stuff to length, load it, then split it at home

 

My stove was advertised as taking 24" cuts.. 

 

They don't tell you that's on a diagonal... and no one burns like that 

17 hours ago, fishnut said:

Well since were kinda on the topic of firewood. I'm in the market for a splitting tool. Should I get a spitting axe or a maul? @ChrisS I usually dont have large rounds 24" and under and I'll be splitting about 5 cords or less a year 

And no I dont want a hydraulic splitter 

A maul and a felling axe are an excellent combo to have. The maul is great for plowing through wood that isn’t completely dried out or has twisted grain. The felling axe is easier to swing and all that’s needed for dry straight grain wood. 
 

Council Tool is a great manufacturer- they have an 8lb maul that goes for $35-40. 
For a companion piece, they offer a single bit 3.5lb Dayton pattern axe and a 3.5lb double bit. I’d personally go with the double bit as one side can be sharpened to a convex edge and the other at a narrower angle. 
 

a wedge is also handy... just don’t use the poll of the axe to beat the wedge as it isn’t tempered like the blade edge. 

both axes are available @ harryepstein.com

My stove takes 18" but I feed it with 16" also because it's just easier 

12 minutes ago, fishnut said:

My stove takes 18" but I feed it with 16" also because it's just easier 

Sounds like my Prom date.

53 minutes ago, ChrisS said:

A maul and a felling axe are an excellent combo to have. The maul is great for plowing through wood that isn’t completely dried out or has twisted grain. The felling axe is easier to swing and all that’s needed for dry straight grain wood. 
 

Council Tool is a great manufacturer- they have an 8lb maul that goes for $35-40. 
For a companion piece, they offer a single bit 3.5lb Dayton pattern axe and a 3.5lb double bit. I’d personally go with the double bit as one side can be sharpened to a convex edge and the other at a narrower angle. 
 

a wedge is also handy... just don’t use the poll of the axe to beat the wedge as it isn’t tempered like the blade edge. 

both axes are available @ harryepstein.com

Thanks, there is a distributer not far from me I'm going to stop over and take a look. 

1 hour ago, JackDaWack said:

My stove was advertised as taking 24" cuts.. 

 

They don't tell you that's on a diagonal... and no one burns like that 

i think i made that same mistake with the 18"...'cause if i put them in sideways they're touching the walls. if i put them in front to rear they're too close o the glass. 16" works perfectly. i wish i'd have gotten a slightly bigger stove though.....but it had to fit in my fireplace.....

55 minutes ago, ChrisS said:

A maul and a felling axe are an excellent combo to have. The maul is great for plowing through wood that isn’t completely dried out or has twisted grain. The felling axe is easier to swing and all that’s needed for dry straight grain wood. 
 

Council Tool is a great manufacturer- they have an 8lb maul that goes for $35-40. 
For a companion piece, they offer a single bit 3.5lb Dayton pattern axe and a 3.5lb double bit. I’d personally go with the double bit as one side can be sharpened to a convex edge and the other at a narrower angle. 
 

a wedge is also handy... just don’t use the poll of the axe to beat the wedge as it isn’t tempered like the blade edge. 

both axes are available @ harryepstein.com

i've gotten my maul stuck in quite a few twisted logs. and then a wedge. then another wedge. then i ended up carefully cutting around them to be able to get them out.

1 hour ago, ChrisS said:

A maul and a felling axe are an excellent combo to have. The maul is great for plowing through wood that isn’t completely dried out or has twisted grain. The felling axe is easier to swing and all that’s needed for dry straight grain wood. 
 

Council Tool is a great manufacturer- they have an 8lb maul that goes for $35-40. 
For a companion piece, they offer a single bit 3.5lb Dayton pattern axe and a 3.5lb double bit. I’d personally go with the double bit as one side can be sharpened to a convex edge and the other at a narrower angle. 
 

a wedge is also handy... just don’t use the poll of the axe to beat the wedge as it isn’t tempered like the blade edge. 

both axes are available @ harryepstein.com

You know wood... tools bro!

using back side of axe will open the eye. Then the head will fly off and someone could lose an eye.

I’ve been restoring old American axes for a while but have been on hiatus. Now I’m wondering if I have any project laying around the work shed. 

26 minutes ago, ChrisS said:

I’ve been restoring old American axes for a while but have been on hiatus. Now I’m wondering if I have any project laying around the work shed. 

Oooh! I have 2 to send you! One is ok, the other has piney teef.

i think ww2 Jeep.

free to me, free to you. I ll head them off and electrolysis them! Pm me

2 minutes ago, Zeke said:

Oooh! I have 2 to send you! One is ok, the other has piney teef.

i think ww2 Jeep.

free to me, free to you. I ll head them off and electrolysis them! Pm me

Awesome. Where are you located? Ever @ GSSC?

56 minutes ago, ChrisS said:

Awesome. Where are you located? Ever @ GSSC?

Whenever the meetup is. @DirtyDigz is always classic late. It’s his mo

modus operenda

A good maul will be high carbon steel all the way through.. you can hit the back side to drive a wedge. 

Might want to check with your manufacturer, but there wouldn't  be a striking side to a maul if they didn't want you to use it. 

 

An axe OTH, I wouldn't use the blunt side for anything. 

2 hours ago, JackDaWack said:

An axe OTH, I wouldn't use the blunt side for anything. 

Go find a firefighting flat head axe.  The blunt side is meant to drive the irons in FE scenarios. 

14 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

That’s why I make my own fire starter. 

 

13 hours ago, Displaced Texan said:

Dryer lint. Paper egg cartons. Wax. 

What's this fire starting material you speak of?

For me, fire starting consists of using one finger, to flip the switch to get the gas logs to light. Then I don't have to touch it for the rest of the night, and the flames are always perfect.

Your way sounds like a lot of "work"...

Splitting wood by hand on the hottest day of the year is my favorite. Maul + 2 wedges + sledge. Spring for the composite handles. Use a peavy for moving the big boys. You get a lot of wood out of a 24" round but the are heavy to lift into the truck. Stack them up like stairs to tip them up into the bed. My wood lives in a shingled roof open side shed and is very happy. The shed is named Woodhaven. Yes I am wood loco. You have to cover it a little.

On 10/20/2019 at 4:45 PM, Displaced Texan said:

Where is the ‘facepalm’ emoji when you need it...

Mrs.  Peel uses it a lot.  You can probably get it from her.