raz-0
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Posts posted by raz-0
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I'm sure you're familiar with it, but, have you tried the Ares Huskey Amentum? It supposedly does both
I have seen it before. 1) It is so awesome they keep on changing it. That means either the current product doesn't work, or the product that was so frikin awesome was flawed. What you cna buy now isn't what is shown in the video. 2) It doesn't do both well.
Honestly, some dude stuck his name on it because he probably thought it compromised better than the other 15 compromises he's encountered.
It's simply a 2-point sling that you can sort of use like a hasty sling. I've got slings that do that. I will say that wrapping your sling around your neck is a pretty crappy way to transition. It's doable, but slower than a single point, and if things go badly you are scrambling for the quick release while getting choked by a piece of webbing strong enough to decapitate you before snapping under load, which kind of sucks. If you don't land the transition exactly right, depending on how things fit, it can cause issues with being able to get a reasonable sight picture. Not so bad with a red dot, more annoying with irons, but really a PITA with a magnifying optic. 2 points are always pretty reasonable at holding the gun at a port arms like storage position as long as you attach them at both ends of the gun. Move the mount points in and that can get sketchy, or you introduce issues with stability and/or transitions. Then theres stability. a 2 point offers some help here when used as a hasty sling. However, it depends on your build. You can wind up with the sling pulling quite tight across an artery and introducing reticle movement form your pulse that you wouldn't get without the sling. Also, when you employ something like the m1907 as a hasty sling, you usually leave your head out of it, so you are JUST dealing with the pulse issue. With the modern 2-point slings, you are also putting your neck in the loop. So when you tension up, you can actually start yanking your head around with movement from your offside arm. As long as your neck doesn't leave the loop, they are ok at retention.
Single points are good at transitions, good at retention, do absolutely nothing for stability and are mediocre at storage of the weapon.
Slings like the no pulse, ching sling, qucik cuff, and a few others actually add a third vector of tension for more stability, they have varying usefulness for storage mode, and although the ching style is arguably the best at facilitating some stability while freeing you up somewhat for transitions. They are all pretty much useless for retention.
Keep in mind I am saying that ALL slings are a compromise and pretty much suck. If you can even remotely articulate a reason why one sucks less for you, it probably IS better for your uses. Just don't expect that advantage to hold up if you change use patterns.
for the shooting I do, the no pulse, ching, and quick cuff are out of the question. My choice of compromise is a quality convertible 2point/1point sling which I sue primarily in single point mode. I find that with altering my technique from what I learned as a kid with nra hi-power type instruction to a more modern squared up technique that employs supination of the off hand, I can get pretty close to the stability of a hasty sling using a bladed stance. But that's from my particular perspective from shooting 2-gun and 3-gun. If I had to run a check point stnading around all day, my answer would probably be different. Shooting hi-power, DEFINITELY different.
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I'm actually asking cause my thought is if your gun can shoot a couple boxes of
crappy stuff then it should be able to shoot everything else. So what are the
worst brands of ammo out there?
Your reasoning is crap. Bad ammo is bad ammo because it has things like squibs, overcharges, double charges, bullets that set back and other fun stuff. No gun will run on squibs. No gun will tolerate double charges. You prove nothing about your gun's reliability by running crap through your gun. The ammo is unreliable because of a problem with the ammo. It's not like there's a magic gun that puts missing powder back in, fixes bullet setback, checks for double charges and other such things.
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What right does ANY state have to do this? What's next? If I leave money in a bank account and don't add or subtract from it for two years the state gets it? Instead of finding new ways to tax and screw us why don't do REPRESENT US, which is what they were elected to do.......................... We need to purge all levels of government and try to start afresh.
It's three years actually. I had the fun of dealing with that. I had some significant planned and unplanned expenses for a period of three years and thought I was doing pretty good by just not dipping into my savings. The state assumed they would be helping themselves to my savings because I ahdn't made a deposit or withdrawal for three years. Nice, isn't it?
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My take on it is you either can have a sling good at stabilization, or you can have a sling good at retention and transition to secondary weapons. I have yet to find one that is good for both.
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I disagree. I've been reloading 5.56 for almost 40 years for a variety of SA and bolt rifles and have had zero problems using standard dies. There is also some brass out there that will result in a case stuck in the die (yes I know how to lube cases). There may be some. SA rifles that need SB dies but I haven't encountered them in the 5.56, 270, 308, or 30-06 rifles I've used in nearly 40 years.Well I'll disagree with your disagreeing. See I can either determine a case is out of spec when I'm shooting and it causes a malfunction, or I can case gauge it. I HAVE run into cases that don't gauge nicely without a small base die. They might chamber fine, but I'd rather be able to do qc while throwing away the minimum number of rounds.
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I had a conversation with a young man behind the gun counter at their East Brunswick branch that explained that they have a standard stocking level on Ammo and encouraged to order up in anticipation of a sale. Recently no matter how much they order above their stocking level, they only receive a fraction of that order and he so much as confirmed that ammo sales have increased to the point that the warehouse have not been able to fill whole orders.
Yes, most of their ammo sales are not loss leader sales, just very little margin. I believe they have issues getting inventory right now, especially as being a large chain, they aren't likely to turn to alternate vendors short term. Inventory not keeping up with demand isn't a really good reason to refuse to do business with a company unless you just like to run around filled with self-rightous indignation for the kicks.
*shrug*
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One thing to keep in mind. He said that he chose 21' not because it's what they had to work with but because that was the distance they trained with their pistols. AFAIK, the 21' distance was chosen at some point because it covered a vast majority of violent confrontations in police encounters. Given the design of most US buildings, the distances involved in traffic stops, etc. I could imagine that 21 feet or less covers a whole heck of a lot of incidents.
This is the interview I am going off of:
As for using it for self-defense legalities, who is doing that? I haven't seen the 21-foot rule in any statutory law.
It sounds like he experimented to determine something and came up with a pretty good jumping off point. 21 feet is round where it starts to get pretty frikin hard from a holster.
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Any body recommend the use of small base dies for reloading for an AR, or any SA rifle for that matter?
YES!
You probably won't get in trouble with a normal one on a loose 5.56 chamber, but a small base will work with most everything without significantly impacting brass life (assuming youa ren't going down the road of annealing your cases). I'm getting near my second round of reloading, and if my brass attrition is consistent, all my original brass will be gone in less firings than I'd worry about.
Also forgot about savings.
I can reload nice accurate 55gr polymer tipped bullets in processed once fired lake city I throw away over a charge of TAC and appropriate small rifle primers bought when I hit cabelas for approximately $440.00 per thousand. You can do a case of 77gr SMK ammo for about $530 per thousand. And that's being lazy. If you can manage to keep enough brass to average 3000 loadings out of 1000 initial pieces of brass (i.e. average 3 loadings per case, load some more, some less due to loss), You can shave $100 off those prices.
Lazy method with cheap 55gr bulk bullets, it's about $350 the lazy way, and $250 if you average 3 loadings per case. Wolf is $210, but it's significantly better ammo than wolf and kinder to your barrel, extractor, and ejector. (DIY ammo is about MOA out of my gun, current production wolf 55gr is between 2-2.5 moa form the same gun/shooter/optic combo. Velocity is similar, but mine seems to generate slightly more gas which drives the comp better IMO, but it's close).
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Can you save a lot reloading .223? yes. It is time consuming though. Especially the initial brass preparation if you are starting with brass that has crimped primers. Short of spending the cash on a super 1050 set up for .223, I'm not sure much beats batch reloading on my turret where I can seat and crimp in quick succession.
For blasting ammo, you probably do not need to chamfer and clean the primer pockets like Dan suggests. You definitely don't need to chamfer, just make sure it is trimmed to length. If you are loading flat based bullets, you will WANT to chamfer. To reduce trimming ot length chores, there is the RCBS x-die, which is designed to prevent case growth due to resizing. It works reasonably well. There are a bunch of people who basically go through the initial case prep, Run it through the x-die, and if it is out of spec toss it under the assumption that means they have reloaded it about 5-6 times. The use something like the possum hollow trimmer for trimming quickly, and buy once fired brass to start without a primer crimp or with the crimp already removed.
I can't say I've found the optimal setup, but I can say if you are going to batch load there is some gear I have found to be stand out in terms of performance.
-RCBS trimmer with 3-way cutter. Without dropping serious cash on a giraud trimmer, or a 1050 with the power case trimmer, I have not seen a faster way to trim and chamfer cases.
-hornady lock-n-load powder measure. I haven't found a better powder measure for the money. There are better, but you jump form $62+/- to about $150 with a very small gain in performance.
-satern funnels. They are aluminum and brass. Yes you will go WTF?!?!??! $12 for a funnel? I will guarantee you that they are worth every penny over a "static free" plastic funnel. With a stick powder like varget, it cut the time to drop each charge easily in half. For a fine ball powder like BL-C2 or TAC, They are nearly as fast as gravity. (literally, I had to take the reducer for small neck brass out of my powder drop to avoid ahving to wait on the powder measure).
I've got a bunch of other .223 reloading gear, but largely it is interchangeable with lots similar stuff from multiple manufacturers.
If you are nervous starting out, varget and 55gr bullets are a pretty safe combo. I don't think you can actually fit enough powder in the case to hit max pressure for the bullet. Metering it is a giant PITA, as is trying to gets consistent OAL curshing the powder for a compressed load, but serious over charges are NOT happening with it.
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For the sales where the ammo prices are unbelievable, it is usually because they are priced as a loss leader. When they do that, they send a specific quantity of inventory to a given store and when it is gone, it is gone. This isn't some evil plot.
Dicks ahs sponsored shooting matches in NJ, and is a pretty convenient place to get shotgun ammo at decent prices. For those alone, I'll keep on buying what I buy from them.
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.45 plus steel isn't usually the recommended formula. For a 1911, a 9mm with lighter loads will play the game much better. With .45, by the time you slow down the bullet enough to cut recoil to anything near the 9mm in a 1911 level, you risk intact bullets bouncing back at you. At least static steel. Knockdown steel is a different matter. A lighter .45 bullet loaded on the light end of the scale, in a 5" gun transitions pretyt nicely, has decent recoil, and will definitely still knock stuff down.
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Every guy can watch The Godfather at any time.
Nah, I know plenty of guys who think it is a turd of a movie. I personally think it varies highly in the quality of the execution, is horrifically long and boring, and those two combined makes it feel very meandering and poorly focused. The characters range from beige to unlikable, and even if they WERE likable, you would hate them after being stuck in a waiting room with them prattling on for three hours... four plus if it is on a channel with commercials. I hate watching golf on TV, and I'd rather watch golf than the godfather in a heartbeat. I might have to think about which one I'd prefer if you gave me the choice of a c-span 2 quality filibuster, or the godfather.
As for what I'llw ind up watching when I didn't even intend to jsut because I saw it was on... the list is too long. There are tons of good and or fun movies.
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It's just a referral site. My question is how long before amazon stomps them for trying to look like amazon and infringing their trademark.
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The 5.11 one is an actual product, just not one of theirs The utilikilt. $60 would be a killer price for it too.
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A case of this is normally around $390
Oh I know you got a good deal. I like federal match stuff. I still have a couple 50 round boxes of federl UMB1 sititng around that I snagged for $4.95 a piece, street price when you could still find it was about $14. INSANELY accurate stuff. My bread and butter, accuracy for the money round was federal 711B which nobody stocks around here anymore.
I can find Eley, but I prefer federal. I don't go through it that fast, so I also prefer someplace local-ish that I can walk in and buy a brick or two and maybe some other annoying to ship goodies like cleaning rods, targets, etc.
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Thanks. Oh yeah, I'm now a trained killing machine. Woe to the sociopath who tries to mess with me!
So was it an expensive 2 day krav maga course? because reading between the lines, that's what it sounds like on their website.
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One of the members here has one. It's OK. Given the profile, you would think it has tubes along the side for batteries or whatever, but it has a little hatch in the bottom that is a very small space. Maybe a bit bigger than the storage space in a miad grip, but shaped differently.
If it was $50 I'd say a very good option for a budget build. At the price, I'd say only if you think it looks awesome. It isn't lighter or more rigid than an ARFX stock.
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ar500 vs 5.56 at under 100 yards is dodgy. IT depends on your velocity at 2700-2800 fps out of a 16" barrel using soft points, I've shot 3/8" ar500 without real damage at 50 yards. I've also seen 3/8" autopoppers from MGM get chewed up pretty bad at 75 yards. They are in theory AR500 as well, but MGM's site doesn't say that.
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Your dad's stupid. Confirm your suspicions from teenagerdom and move on.
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Nice. Does anyone even stock 22 match ammo anymore? I'm pretty much tapped at this point.
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I saw this list on another site.
The question is....
What effect on cycle/performance does the Buffer have?
What effect on cycle/performance does the Spring have?
( +/- Stroke delay, Recoil, Feeding, Extraction, etc.? )
AS the weight increases, the longer the delay before unlocking, and the lower the cyclic rate. The lighter the weight, the harder it slams against the back of the tube, and the harder the BCG is slammed back into battery. It also gives you a slightly higher cyclic rate. A higher spring rate will soften the impact of the buffer to the rear, but will slam the BCG back into battery harder, This will trend towards less muzzle rise, but more muzzle dip when returning to battery. Too much spring and you will short stroke (no idea if anyone makes a buffer spring with THAT much increased spring rate). A lighter spring reverses that, and can lead to the system behaving as if over gassed. I don't think anyone sells a spring that light out of the box, but in theory starting with a lighter weight spring and then wearing it out could do that. Spring rate will not affect total cycle time, it will just change weather more time is spent absorbing recoil or returning to battery.
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Captains of Crush
http://www.ironmind....insofcrush.html
Also, weight training, especially dead lifts, will stengthen your grip in addition to your back.
Yes, the T and 1 should be within the realm of most healthy adult males. The #2 introduces the risk of injury if not part of a balanced grip training regimen. you can wind up tearing connective tissue. I got to the point where I could close the #2 10 times in a row with my right hand, and 7 times with my left.
Rock and wall climbing! Come to NJ Rock Gym in Fairfield.
I don't know much about shooting, but in terms of forearm strength, why not just do finger push ups? You need no equipment for that.
Chinning bars or climbing "project boards" work extremely well too. I have one of these at home, installed above a doorway in kid's room where it doesn't break the decorum.
Because even if you can do normal push ups well, you may not be able to do finger push ups without injury. You have to start with something else. At least. When I was doing grip and forearm exercises, I never could manage to do finger push ups without my joints starting to bend backwards. I'm not exactly a light guy though.
Pull ups are good, but lots of folks need to work up to them too, although that's a simpler task to pull off. Project boards have the problem of needing about 2' of clearance over a doorway, or a dedicated install place that gives you clearance. I have yet to live in a place that had that available.
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Not a chance. I would never break the law no matter how stupid it is. It really stinks that we have to be so afraid of our own government.
you are not prohibited form owning them, just possessing them within NJ. So if you had a storage in PA, no problem. Heck if storage costs too much, go geocache them in PA in a PVC tube.
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I wish I knew more about this surface hardening stuff. Now viualize the trigger engagement notch ground into the hammer.
I'll be damned if it doesn't look like that was done after heat treating. So if that surface is stoned, taking off the high spots of the engegement area axial to the trigger pin how would that remove the hardened surface? Even if it did remove the high part of the "wash board" the valleys would still be hardened. How deep is the surface hardening?
Now this is not saying that a butcher can't ruin a hammer...
Any input is appreciated.
The surface hardening is a few thousandths deep according to people who know more than me. Even with care, sometimes faces need to be trued up, and that usually involves going past that hardened layer. The problem as I understand it isn't usually the hammer, it's the sear face. Like you noted, it looks like it is done after carburizing. It uses up much of the depth of the hardening for the final grind/polish. How much varies, and that's the problem even with someone who isn't a butcher. The only way to be sure is to harden again.
Or you can just accept that you are trading off durability for cost control.
I'll say this, the only worked "mil-spec" triggers I have encountered that weren't bad also failed to light off primers sometimes.
Carburizing can go as deep as 0.3" with some super duper tlc. Common spec for farming it out is to request between 0.02" and 0.25".
AR15 Mag Pouches
in Optics & Accessories
Posted
I like mine a lot.