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raz-0

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raz-0 last won the day on December 9 2011

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About raz-0

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    Sayreville, NJ
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  1. One of the criteria for my current car was to run on regular. Better supply, but easier sharing with my gas powered equipment. Have several gas cans. Especially for hurricane season, we usually get a week warning of anything. So I fill them and dump one into my car each week if it turns out the generator didn't need them.
  2. 1) get target where you shot like poop but still have hits. Is anything keyholing? (easiest check for doing at the time). 2) When shooting for groups, how are you mounting the gun? It's not free floated, and applying variable pressure to the barrel/hand guard can result in deflection of the barrel and shifted pint of impact. If you sighted it in with no sling and are now wrenching on it national match style as a fully veste member of team push it harder, you can wind up with some serious changes in POI vs POA. 3) Check your optic mount. Is it tight and properly installed. For something like the pro I would remove and reinstall as suggested in the directions. Check the pic rail for undue wear, gouges, shiny marks, etc. (this is easy any time, but you can have issues even if it seems tight. But if it seems loose, it'll definitely cause problems) 4) Have someone else shoot it who you know can shoot. Are they getting groups? 5) Inspect bore. Is it fouled. 22 conversion kits can leave a barrel leaded and underperforming. Getting it clean can be a giant PITA. 6) Check the muzzle device for a baffle strike, or serious build up that might be upsetting the bullet on exit, damaging the jacket, etc. Impacted foreign matter, etc. will also do it. 7) Check your gas key and gas tube. Is there uneven wear that is not radially symmetrical/concentric? Gas tube may not have been properly aligned and the gas tube affects barrel harmonics and POI during operation. If you zeroed it while it was mating up under tension, and it has warn significantly lopsided and is no longer under tension, it can cause issues with accuracy and repeatability. Usually this will jsut cause reliability issues as it wears, but it it was bad to begin with and creating tension, it cna change shooting dynamics. Probably not >6" at 50 yards though. The above shouldn't require tools or anything special. 8) check barrel nut and barrel to upper mating. If it wiggles or clicks with the upper mounted to a vise and you wiggling the barrel, it's probably not too solid a connection. Torque to spec to fix. If it's at spec it may be a poor mating from day one that has gotten worse. You can disassemble and shim possibly in that case. Also, of course, check the upper and barrel nut for visible damage. If a defect has caused a crack in either, I'd expect it to behave poorly. 9)If volume of fire is high, throat erosion could be an issue, at that point you need a bore gauge/scope. Tools will probably cost you more than a barrel though so.. Not comprehensive of all steps, but should give you ammo for google etc.
  3. It's probably a mis-keying in their logistics software. Back a while ago, I tried to order a three pack of 10 round OEM 10/22 magazines from cabelas because the price was about 1/2 compared to buying them individually. There answer was nope, can't ship to NJ. They'd ship the single mags just fine. As a testament to their former CS glory at cabelas, I was able to talk ot a sales rep on the phone and find out why it was restricted. Answer was someone had filled in the capacity as 30 in their system. Even greater testament to it was that I was able to get it fixed eventually.
  4. batteryjuction, their titanium brand. In my experience they perform very similarly to the surefire bulk batteries. They are protected cells, and you can find plenty of people doing anal comparisons of them and the big names. Myself, I have moved to mostly low self discarge nimh AAs and 18650 li-ion rechargeables. Prior to that I'd probably burn through 10-15 cr123 primaries in a year, and got about 60 or so cells deep into using the titaniums without a problem.
  5. Or replace the card. They can only take so many rewrite cycles, and only some of them are heavy duty cards meant for DVR use. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Endurance-128GB-Micro-Adapter/dp/B07B984HJ5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536955034&sr=8-3&keywords=samsung+micro+sd+card+for+video
  6. An AR indoors is WAY, WAY louder than most handguns. Personally, I will avoid shooting ARs indoors as much as possible. It's brutal and there is no such thing as sufficient hearing protection for them indoors without a suppressor IMO. Also, just say no to 30-06 in a high power rifle tunnel. Like seriously.. no. Outdoors always beats indoors, but indoors has degrees of unpleasant. First, stay away from the walls and get a slot near the middle and take advantage of inverse square. I can tell you from experience being against the wall and having the guy with the .475 wildey start popping them off means you get the sound from one side, and the reflected sound nearly as loud from the other. Second, for new shooters I recommend muffs and plugs. My favorite combo is the howard leight electronic muffs over foam 33db NRR disposable plugs. Then there's the pressure wave. Rifles will do it. Anything magnum will do it. Hot open gun cartridges will do it. They will also be loud to boot, but hearing protection will do nothing to cut the feel of the pressure wave on your skin, and it bugs the shit out of some people. (Outdoors, being off to one side but close to comped .50 BMG feels like someone tossed a big soft pillow in your face). I've shot indoors a lot, and I can say ROing open shooters indoors will induce a flinch for me after a while. Then there's just frikin loud. Indoor 12 guage is LOUD and bassy. You feel it a lot especially as the shooter. But it's not high pressure, the impulse isn't as sharp as rifle, and it's easier on the ears. muffs and plugs plus the frequency and reduced impulse strength will keep your ears form too much harm. But noobs likely won't like it one bit. Also, I tend to avoid short barrel pistols in .357 sig. Annoying as all get out. And when they were the new hotness, usually shot by people with minimal to negative competence.
  7. Farewell to Burt Reynolds and his mustache.
  8. My guess is they chose their stupid 7/10 language because it meant it wasn't' a defacto ban on semi-auto handguns. Something that even the shittiest judge would find a hard time ruling in favor of given the majority decision in heller.
  9. With quality optics comes a price, but also comes build quality. I trust them more used than many brands new. Because quite a few brands are just total crap. That being said, I think red dots from the quality names have been obscenely overpriced, and a chunk of that was enabled by patents that are now expired. Unlike with magnified optics where the glass matters, in red dots the lions share of the overall performance goes to the electronics and precise assembly. Both of these things are things multiple cheap labor markets do well, unlike glass (yes, places like Vietnam are increasingly doing optics well, China is improving, but the demand for quality optics across market segments outstrips the supply of quality manufacturers). Looking at the holosun offerings, the only thing aimpoint is bringing to the table they aren't is better coatings and less loss of contrast. There might be better QA, but I suspect build quality, at least as regards accuracy and durability, won't be that far apart in practical use. The 1x prismatic scopes will be the next to go, but that's in large part because the big names don't really want to make them. Which is in part because the user base is minimal. It looked like it would be a thing in the competition world, but that has fizzled. I don't think it will be a huge market suddenly developing. The offerings have been there forever for $200-400. Vortex, Trijicon, Bushnell, and others have brought serious price drops to quality magnified scopes, but they aren't likely to be cheap anytime soon, and they are in a different league than the cheap PA stuff. PA tried to compete with them, and came to the same conclusions they did and a similar price point. Heck, technically worse as there's no discounter. The PA 1-8 FFP platinum is $1299. Cheaper on paper than the trijicon 1-8 FFP accupower, but I can find the latter on sale for $1050 regularly.
  10. Ghost's speed holster is also nice, IMO. The super ghost ultimate to be specific. They all have their pros and cons.
  11. Good, the police who stole her shit from her home can return it. They are exempt.
  12. I didn't mind the concept of a gas tax hike ot pay for infrastructure. I use the crap out of that infrastructure. The problem is we use it to fund a trust fund that constantly got raided. We need that infrastructure and we needed to protect it's fund along with the tax and as far as I could tell, that was not included in the plan, so.... no, not happy with any of it.
  13. NO! It gums up into a varnish when heavily applied and left to dry. This is bad, dangerously so in some fire control groups. Same thing for beoshield T-9. Outside of the gun? Your business, might even work for doing something. Inside.. be careful and it's simpler to just avoid both products. My $0.02 on lubes. 1) If you have a grease you can put a blob on a smooth flat surface, flip it so the surface is now on the vfertical, and the blob doesn't stay put, it shouldn't be used where you want grease. Grease is for things where you want the lube to stick around more or less in applied quanities for extended periods. 2) Buy a dedicated solvent. Most CL or CLP products do between a middling to crappy job at the cleaning portion. For my sanity I keep a decent general solvent, and a dedicated copper/plastic solvent around. 3) Most everything advertised as a lube will work as a lube, there's not much point arguing over it. The only real questions IMO are how long before you have no lube left, and how much did it cost you. The more often you clean and lube your guns, the less you care what you buy. If your collection is large enough not everything gets frequent attention, or you would rather be shooting or practicing than cleaning, you care more. 4) If it looks more like a tub of car wax than anything else. Don't buy it. It's a shit lube and I have yet to meet something gun specific that matches this description that wasn't ludicrously overpriced to start with. 5) I have yet to find a protectant that is all that great. My real world need is to protect my competition guns with a wipe down after a summer match where they get handled with sweaty hands and perhaps dripped on with sweat. So far nothing is awesome and the prize goes to whatever comes in a pump form in sufficient quantities I can saturate surfaces that are metal and get touched easily. 6) If it tells you it builds up a defensive barrier over multiple applications and time, just avoid it. Even if it isn't a pile of bullshit, it's a waste of your time. The only lubes I will flat out tell you not to buy are Any grease in a syringe that looks like oil when used - it's a waste of your money if you need grease. Boeshield t-9. Like I said at the start, this thing can do bad stuff in fire control groups. It also can get gummy and sticky if you leave too much on a surface. It's nearly impossible NOT to leave too much on a surface if that surface is matte bead blasted and parkerized. Works decent as a protectant on my polished blued guns that spend too much time in the safe. Froglube paste. That shit is awful for the price. Just total crap. The reason it has the most extensive instructions for any lube anywhere is so they can tell you it working like crap is your fault for not using it right. militec-1. I got a free sample of this shit at a match and other than it's oily feel, from a protectant standpoint it might as well have been bottled salt solution.
  14. None. But slower burnign powders may not burn completely before the bullet exists, which increases flash. Some powders have a flash suppressant added, but that costs more, and not all powders have it.
  15. This is America, you don't have to file for copyright to own the copyright.