raz-0
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Posts posted by raz-0
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I'll be there.
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Re: pizza bob's statement, yeah, pretty much all you can do is DIY. There are several writeups out there on how to do it. It's a bit of a PITA, and you CAN get it below 9lbs, but your odds of keeping it reliable are low,a nd once you go too far, it's time to buy new parts.
I've seen three versions of it, and I'm not familiar enough with the implicatiosn of the DIY mods that I would feel comfortable endorsing any of them as a good idea. but google sigma trigger fix, and you cna decide for yourself.
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I have a smith and Wesson m&p-15 5.56/.223
Back when I switched to a magpul stock I bought a brownells buffer tube kit. The kit came with tube, spring and buffer. The brownells kit came with a heavier buffer then came on my gun in stock form. Is their any benefit to a heavier buffer or am I better off not adding the weight.
darker one is brownells
A heavier buffer will help slow down an over-gassed gun. If your gun is running reliably, don't go heavier. If you are seeing stuff like failing to strip a round and chanber when it goes back into battery, it is moving too fast, and you could use more delay when it hits the buffer, and a heavier buffer will give you that.
They both appear to be standard rifle length buffers that, IIRC, should be a hair over 5 oz. How much difference in weight is there?
Uhh those are carbine buffers. Rifle buffers are longer and have a flange about at about 1/3 in from the end. Unless they are special extra heavy ones, they aren't 5oz. Standard carbine is 3oz, H is 3.8, h2 is 4.6, H3 is 5.4. Pistol carbine buffers are between 5.6 and about 8oz, and standard rifle is 5.2oz..
If you want to be extra picky and go beyond simply accepting the "it isn't malfunctioning, so it must be sufficient", and well gassed, properly sprung, properly weighted buffer setup should not be mangling your brass, and brass should be ejecting with enough oomf to bounce of the brass deflector and land between 1:00 and 3:00 of the shooter. If it is consistently skipping rounds off the brass deflector to land in a 5:00 position, you are getting weak extraction.. which is normal as you get towards the end of the service life of the springs, but isn't something you should be seeing in a new gun.
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it kind of looks like a fire training tower anyway
That was my first thought.
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Anyone know a goid gunsmith that's able to do a trigger job on a S&W 40VE? Trigger pull is about 12lbs and I want it to be lighter
You can do all you want, but if it going to be reliable, 9lbs is about where you are going to wind up. I don't know of any real gunsmiths that will work on them, when you can find them for $290 retail and gunsmiths like to value their labor at abotu $80-100 per hour witha 1 hour minimum, well...
Sigmas are cheap as hell for a reason. Most cost effective way to get a better gun is to sell it and buy a better gun.
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Just looked them up. The cost of 124gr FN @ 3750 round would be $277 as opposed to $325 for MG. That's $50. Although shipping wasn't included in the xtreme bullets $$. I thought MG has shipping included. I will order 500 rounds of Xtreme cauuse if you buy in 500 round increment or 100, the price is the same.as far as I can tell, thebulletworks.net is selling plated xtreme bullets. Regardless, they are good, and shipping is the USPS flat rate price of $14 every 2k for 180gr .40. Works out to about $107 per k (shipped, in 2k quantities) for .40 and I have been happy with them. PD is $115 per k (shipped in 2k quantities).
TJ Conevera sells Xtreme for $83 per 1000. Precision Delta is $79 per 1000. Xtreme are more expensive than Precision Delta! I will not be buying Xtreme bullets!
plated often can not be worth it in .40 and .45 depending on utility prices and metals prices. I don't think I've ever seen 9mm plated for a great price. Also, TJconvera is part of hte probelm. from x-treme directly, 124 9mm is $74 per k and 3k per USPS flat rate box. So in theory somewhere around $79 per k shipped in 3k quantities. which breaks even with precision delta. Which is often what I ahve seen for 9 when plated is reasonably priced.
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Perhaps it is of use to the Bullseye shooter.
From a bullseye FAQ at http://www.doppke.com/~jls/bullfaq/sec3.html
"In general, brass preparation is not as important for pistol competition as it is for rifle competition. Bullseye gunsmith and master class shooter Ed Masaki put it this way:
I have been building 45 pistols for a long time for many shooters up to HI MASTERS. I always test the guns on a Ransom Rest out to 50 yards. With groups 1 1/2" to 3/4" center to center. I found out that brass does not make a difference in accuracy. I have used mixed and old brasses and they all shot the same groups. What makes the difference in accuracy is how well the pistol is put together, what barrels are used, what bullet and what type of powder is used.
Opinions vary a bit, but you don't need to spend time trimming brass, cleaning primer pockets, or any of that other stuff that rifle shooters do. Your brass should be clean and in good condition - always inspect for split necks, big dings in the wall or crushed rims, lest you blow yourself up. That's it. You don't even really need to sort by headstamp, if you don't want to. Most of us do, though."
I've seen a number of threads on the subject of trimming pistol brass form newbies on several forums, and not one single post by someone who claims it improves accuracy. LOTS of people who don't do it, and have had no safety or reliability issues (some who have been doing without it for over half a century).
Did I mention of those nearly 70k rounds, most have been .40, and the majority of those have been run through a case gauge after loading? Over 30k of range pick up.
I even asked around a bit as well as hit up google for more info TRYING to see if I cna come up with a reason to trim pistol brass. The only remotely legit answer I got was that if you are shooting magnum revolver cartridges loaded real hot, and use a roll crimp, you might need to. Also jsut a real heavy roll crimp might cause you to need to.
I have also found one instance of someone making 5000 pieces of brass unusable with his 20k plated bullets because the sharp edge would now shave the plating (I guess he chamfered too, which I'm assuming was the really bad idea).
It's your life, spend it doing what you want, I wouldn't recommend wasting it trimming straight wall pistol brass for a semi-auto.
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Hmm, I'm closing in on 70,000 pistol cartridges reloaded. Many to the point the head stamp is no longer distinct. I've had problems due to flipped primers, and letting the powder run dry while getting a bit distracted. I have one gun that is real picky about how I size my .40 brass. Can't say I've ever trimmed pistol brass or had issues due to that.
Clearly it is a critical step that shouldn't be skipped.
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Yes, I tried chronoing in 20F with high winds. Wind chill was something stupid like -5. Even xm193 was cycling the gun sluggishly. The wolf was not getting it done. I've shot in some pretty cold weather, I still do if that's the only time I can get to it, but I'll try to avoid it these days.
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One thing, that style Hilti gun can only fire a when it's pressed against something, so unless someone had a person there, was able to press and compress the unit on them and then strike it with a hammer to blast the pin, It's really not that useful.
What next, I can't travel with my pneumatic framing gun?
which is why I suspect it may fail the "device or instrument in the nature of a weapon" part of the statute. Having operated one before, I can't see it being used to effectively cause harm to someone who isn't unconscious and prone, or being held down by multiple people.
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Thank goodness it wasn't just me. I do have a video of it with sound, you can barely hear it, mostly rain drops but if you listen carefully you can hear it. On the recording it is easy to mistaken it for the wind but it has an eerie resonance to it. It was louder in real life, I heard it through closed windows secured for the winter.
Maybe someone can tell me how to get it off my iphone so I can post it.
I was kinda worried MHS would be paying me a call if I was the only one to hear it...there goes my 2A.
If it is int he stock voice recoder app, you cna just email it to anywhere, preferably an acocunt you can read with a real computer, then just save the attachment. It's not hard.
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Hmm.. the ukraine video sounds exactly like the noises form the cloverfield monster in cloverfield.
But dubbing a movie noise on top of video is outside the realms of possibility compared ot some supernatural event, so it must be supernatural.
Watched the denmark video, where "the sound is exactly the same" and didn't hear anything that didn't sound like bad audio of air traffic.
The colorado video sounds like any number of things, but nothing like the ukraine video. It also sounds dubbed as everything else sounds like crappy video camera condenser mike, and the bassy noises sound like a professional recording.
The florida one sounds like crappy a crappy video cam mic capturing the sound a a deep car exhaust from say a covered porch or something in the rain.
The brazil one just sounds like an industrial horn.
The UK one sounds like interference from a transformer.
I dunno.. one of my first requirements for being concerned about this noise being heard everywhere is that the examples are.. you know... actually similar.. possibly even not redily identified.
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I have an 800 lumen light. It's bright, but not as insane as you'd think. The low mode for it is 400 lumens, and that's nit a huge difference over 230+ lumen lights for common use.
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It's a comp, not a flash suppressor. It needs to be pinned or welded, but it's legal. Here's a comparison (the pws is legal).
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For bulk pistol bullets jacketed there are the following AFAIK
precision-delta (buy form tehir web site)
montana gold (buy form their web site, or if you want the bulk buy discount at a lower number, there are other options)
zero (don't buy direct, they don't want to deal with small purchases, so if you want them I recommend buying through cz custom, or shooters connection)
For plated, there's rainier (soft, use lead data), berrys (harder, can usually use jacketed data), and west coast/x-treme (might be even harder than berrys, I use jacketed data).
I don't know who sells rainiers cheaply (probably the best you can do is cabelas if you get a $15 off $150 coupon, and a free shipping promotion), although I loved them in my .45 when bullets were cheap enough I didn't care much.
For berrys, powder valley has decent prices.
For x-treme (formerly west coast), you can order direct if your order is big enough, and they are what I believe thebulletworks.net sells ont heir site (if it's not them, they are still nice plated bullets).
For coated, there's precision bullets, which are accurate, but delicate for the coating and SOFT lead wire. There's also bayou bullets, which smell like burning tires when you shoot them, but the coating is tougher and the lead a bit harder. They are a PITA to get to not smoke a lot, and a PITA to get moving past the 100fps mark without issues. For minor .40 you cna make the 170s shoot really nice though.
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Probably the worst recoiling would be 3" 1900fps sbot slugs form a shotgun.
marlin .444 out of a 6.5lb gun (loaded) would be number two.
Barrett m82-a1 for third. It really feels mostly like shooting a shotgun with your standard 1oz slug.
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Another thing I noticed was the difference in recoil. I guess it's a combination of gun control and loads, but Mike's recoil was significantly less, which means he can get back on target quicker. Were you shooting factory ammo?
Technique counts for a lot. More than I would have guessed when I started, or even in the middle of my time shooting production. But I have some videos of me from way back shooting 180-ish power factor factory ammo, and from fairly recently shooting 180-ish reloads (was doing some guesstimating on a new load and wanted to play it safe). The difference in apparent recoil with several years of experience between the two was pretty drastic.
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If someone is teotwawki inclined, then they have likely converted a ton already in advance im thinking.
I was going to say rational, but lets perhaps say logical TEOTWAWKI types probably understand that absent laws to the contrary, a nice heavier bonded core .223 will take dear just fine and that most of those laws are there for the stupid an lazy who can't be bothered to understand the difference between a 40gr varmint round and a 68gr bonded core round. It's not a great round for the job, but it will get the job done fairly well without a lot of inventory control. You can also reload it with minimal gear since you aren't dealing with converting a cartridge.
Lots of TEOTWAWKI types like using it as an excuse to buy stuff, and they feel the need to harp about how "this purchase will be the deciding factor between life or death! I see dead people around me, and the walking corpses, they are the ones who don't own X!"
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CMMG was selling it for under $20, and Midway carries factory-new brass.
I know. My point was that with commercial brass available, I wouldn't worry about wildcatting and parent brass as a pro or con. However, if you are thinking TEOTWAWKI type stuff where somehow in your head you magically keep all your reloading gear accessible, and .300 whatever somehow has more merit because you can form it form plentiful .223 brass, you should rethink that (well all of it probably, it isn't horribly realistic), but would you rather have .223 brass you can reload multiple times, or .300 blackout made form .223 that has to either be loaded light or will have the case neck split after a use or three?
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Don't ride the slide. It's a bad practice to get into.
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To make any normal lower into full ambidextrous, get a bad lever, a Troy ambi mag catch, and your favorite ambi safety selector. You can now run the gun with either hand from either side, and if something breaks you can still use all mil-spec parts.
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Dispatcher tells him not to shoot again!!!
you beat me to it harry...
I'm guessing the dispatcher was trying to mitigate the risk of him shooting the responding unit and the responding unit shooting the kid.
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Seems Gaston is making all the money.
Not really, it's spread around. Realistically, given that glock had promotional programs for competitive shooters that would get it below LE prices, and what large contracts were being fulfilled at, I'd say that their profit model probably required each gun to make about $280 for glock, and that the civilian marked subsidized departmental purchases and advertising. So probably $90 to overhead, $90 to profit, and $100 to "promotion" which includes putting them in as many police departments as possible, sponsorships, incentives, advertising, etc.
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Sorry, I was misremembering. It's not about case head thickness it's about case neck thickness after fire forming from .223 given what you have to do in trimming and what material winds up as the case neck. It's been a few years since I stopped giving a crap about the caliber. If I had a need for an ar-based deer rifle, or lived in a state where I could get a suppressor, I might care more. I see way too many people thinking it is some kind of super accurate round, or good for long range, which it isn't.
AS for the parent cartridge, if I can pick up loaded ammo form the factory for less than $20 a box, that's where I'd source my brass until I could buy commercial never fired brass for it.
Trigger job?
in Gunsmithing
Posted
Hmm reading around some more, you can apparantly get S&W to reduce the trigger pull weight under warranty. THeoretically to the 7lbs-ish range.
http://www.handgunforum.net/smith-wesson-gunsmithing/6048-sigma-trigger.html