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Radek

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Posts posted by Radek


  1. If the modem supports DHCP, turn it off. (You may have to connect a laptop to it directly to access its admin interface, independent of any other devices. It probably has a web interface for admin.)

     

    Use the router as the single DHCP server and NAT device in the chain. (btw. If router supports VLAN (multiple LANs), you could do some funky setup (only if needed.) Also, the switch may support VLAN ... ignore that for the moment.)

     

    When you say Phone is connected directly (I assume you mean VOIP), do you mean connected directly to the router or to the modem? I assume the modem has a single LAN (side) port, if so how is the phone directly connected? Or a phone via macbook? Keep that for last to figure out ...

     

    I run VOIP off of my comcast setup, but it's completely NAT'ed by the router, i.e., non-public IP 192.168.x.x.

     

    Suggest you use the following:

    New Modem -> Router -> Switch -> macbook(s)

     

    Use the new modem, until you diagnose the networking setup. If the previous modem was really old, it might need a firmware upgrade to support the higher blast speeds (or some setting might limit it), or it could simply be a setup problem. Dunno.

     

    In this setup, Router is going to support DHCP (for wired and wireless connections) and NAT.

     

    The switch will simply give you additional wired connection ports; this will provide the DHCP issued (by router) IP addresses to connected devices.

     

    On the macbook, disable/enable/reset the net interface and/or find/issue the command to reset the DNS cache. I am not a mac guy, so can't help you without research.

     

    This should give you clean slate on the macbook, then try to connect.

     

    Hope this helps.


  2.  

    Like my wife says, "Guns, Guns, Guns! Is that all you think about?!"

     

    She has a point :lol: :violin:

     

    My hobbies right now, Guns & Motorcycles!

    Other: Home DIY, Photo/Videography, Pool, Chess, Poker, Soccer, Cricket, Table Tennis, and anything outdoors.


  3. I have a GP100. The trigger was not as smooth out of the box as I would like, but after some shooting, I feel it's smoothing out ... close to agreeable.

     

    Built like a tank and I like the balance. I did handle and shoot a 686 (used of course) and didn't want to spend the extra money. I am not a revolver expert anyway. YMMV.

     

    I may take the GP100 to a gunsmith to see what additional trigger smoothness can be had, or I may open up the innards and tinker ...


  4. Maks, thanks for the intros and letting me try out the VEPR! A .223 doesn't do it justice! I want to get one in 7.62x39 - rare and expensive ...

     

    The best handgun I tried today was the CZ 75 in .40. Who's was that? (Sorry, I couldn't hear clearly all the names over the noise and earmuffs! and I am bad at remembering names.)

     

    Tony's Mosin was a blast!

     

    My wife Bernadette appreciated all the friendly folks! She is amazed at the enthusiasm (the good nuttiness) ... was happy to come along.

     

    See you next time!


  5. Get the Taurus 1911 in black or SS.

    I test fired Tony357's 1911 in .38 super and it's silky smooth, finish is top notch and shoots great to boot.

    They make most popular calibers in 1911 now.

     

    Taurus has come a long way up in quality and the price is one of the lowest for comparable quality gun.


  6. if I find 223 anywhere will bring the vepr...

     

    will leave the mosin's at home.... not in the particular mood for cosmo on my face. =)

     

    I have 223, please bring the VEPR. I have only seen the beauty in pics, never in person!


  7. Why is reloading 223 different from 5.56? or is it because one can't buy factory 5.56 brass?

    You can shoot 223 in a 5.56 chambered rifle, but not the other way around.

    http://ammo.ar15.com/ammo/

     

    I get that, that's why I got a 5.56 chambered rifle instead of 223 spec.

     

    As a beginner, I have done the reading up to understand the dimensional and other differences between 223 and 5.56 rounds, but my original question was in the context of reloading steps. Are the steps inherently different, or different only because of availability (or lack) of components, etc.?


  8. If you are going to load 5.56 on a Dillon, you will be using the press as a single stage. Prep the cases beforehand. Deprime, clean the primer pocket, resize, trim, chamfer and re-prime. Then store them for future use. Depending on the use, you will be loading using a Quick change kit of single measure of each powder load. My match loads are all singularly loaded with each charge individually measured using a scale and powder trickle. Field loads are loaded using the Quick Change and Dillon powder measure. To do it that way, ball powder should be used.

     

    Why is reloading 223 different from 5.56? or is it because one can't buy factory 5.56 brass?


  9. I am about to place an order for a Dillon 550B and preparing to buy reload supplies. Need to buy small and large pistol & rifle primers. Also powder for same. To start, I plan to reload 9mm and .40; Later FN 5.7, .38, .357 (magnum primers), 7.62x39, .223. Does anyone here reload 5.56?

     

    I know primers are in short supply right now and shipping comes out expensive w/ hazmat fees. Since I am just stating w/ reloading, I don't want to buy huge quantities (many K's of primers) yet, so I would think buying/picking up may save me some.

     

    What retailers you recommend within 2 hour drive from Woodbridge? I am thinking PA, the next free state nearby ...

     

    btw. I am thinking of buying the Dillon press from Brian Enos; any alternative sources that can save me some money? I have searched the forum and came up w/ the name Vinny in Freehold. But I couldn't find any pricing. Apparently, Dillon dealers are not allowed to divulge prices ... Can someone who has purchased the 550B, send me a PM with pricing they got recently?

     

    Thanks in advance for your recommendations on best dealers/suppliers.

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