Jump to content

Kimber45

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    492

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by Kimber45

  1. Posted

    I measure the distance from the outside of the brake to the inside rim. Than i measure the barrel about a third distance from the muzzle threads to the bore. Add the two mesurments up and transfer the measurement to the drill press limiter and drill. I than taper the hole for the pin. Install than weld over....

  4. Posted

    Thanks for all the replys.. ok to answer tbe questions..1 yes the drill is going in the right direction. 2 the hole is only 3 or 4 mm deep. 3 no the bit did not brake off in the hole. 4 yes i used cutting oil. And as posted by other members to use a carbide bit.... 5 iam using the slowest setting on my drill press 550 600 rpm. Old school spot annealing? Please advise... and i will be stopping at Fastnall for a good carbide bit... the home depot onea suck..... thanks again all.....

  5. Posted

    Ok ok i know this is a beat your horse kick your dog topic and its been served many times over but..... ive install muzzle brakes on many of my own ar's and a few for friends of mine and have never had an issue.... until now..... I have a Troy Medievil muzzle brake that i can drill through.... Iam using a drill press and ive gone through 3 Titanium bits which have always worked in the past.... did a little research and i see that folks are using a solid carbide bit with great success. So off to home depot i went.... picked up 4 ridgid carbide bits and back to the bat cave.... WELL iam down 3 of the 4 bits.... two burnt up and one snapped....now i drilling at a slow speed and using cutting fluid this thing wount drill..... I see that Remixer had a comment reguarding this to a fellow poster so could you help me out.... what am i doing wrong... like i said this isnt my first rodeo but this Troy is a real BITCH...........

  7. Posted

    Yeah. I thought it was a nifty idea. So with an already nj compliant rifle pinned stock/ and muzzle brake no bayo lug ect. I could add this and still be compliant? I understand that you get one round off but it wount cycle and most likely damage the assembly .

  10. Posted

    Hey Ed... I picked up a decent bipod from wally world its sold under the Winchester name. Its pretty decent and robust for the price... about 70 bucks. I use it to sight my rifles in like the guys here say so it moves from gun to gun. A little on the heavy side but unless you want to drop some coin on Harris i find this works well.... if your running a rail you will need to get an adapter though...

  15. Posted

    I hope thats not going to be a common problem for PSA uppers. A buddie if mine got his upper a few weeks ago for his first build. He gave it to me to give it a once over before heading out to the range.... And much like the op the barrel nut was just hand tight... also the gas block was off center to the port....other than that he was gtg......

  16. Posted

    Thanks Mr. Stu and pizza bob for that info this is something iam really looking to pursue.... Mr Stu we could meet at easton fish and game iam rdo on sun thru weds... so let me know what time is good for you... Pizza bob yes i run my kimber compact as my off duty..... so i assume that i can run that without a problem only mods are grips and trijicon night sights oh and some skateboard tape on the front grip... ill get it checkered someday..... thanks again guys....

  19. Posted

    I have 2 of the BCM Mod 1s on my 14.5 builds and they seem to work great.. they look similar to the standard a2 flash hider but i needed the length....i also have a wilson combat A2 brake on my 20" A2 looks identical excypt for the small hole at the end...

  20. Posted

    Hey all..... I've had my Kimber stainless compact for 16 years for the past 14 I've been carrying it as my off duty and I have never had an issue. I bought her at Rays ran 500 rounds through her and have be we looked back. Only issue is It doesn't like wolf ammo.. ( steel case ) other than that eats everything... as far as cc goes Iam a big guy and in a T-shirt it doesn't print and isn't that heavy... the only other issue I have to deal with is out on the range with the young guns with their Glocks and Berettas the question is " dude your hammers back....!!!! ". So yeah Iam a big Kimber fan.....

  21. Posted

    I've had my Kimber for 15 years and she runs like a champ.. first I would make sure she well lubed. My Kimber likes to run somewhat wet. Also I noticed that it doesn't like steel cased ammo. I believe its due to the tighter tolerances in the chamber... if yours has the guide rod with the captured spring check the guide rod sometimes it backs out due to the recoil. Also mine is finicky with mags... doesn't like the Wilson combat ones but loves the chip McCormick pro series. If all else fails contact Kimber they guys are really helpful.....

  24. Posted

    The JP spring is an extra power spring that uses a flat wire spring that is polished compared to the stock run of the mill carbine springs... I've used them on all my ar's and have never had an issue... the bonus is it doesn't have that BOINGGGGGGG sound... and its much smoother in cycling the bolt.. hope this helps...

×
×
  • Create New...