DeerSlayer

Probably an Illegal invader, or a homeowner. It's from a plumbing group I belong too. I don't know the entire back story. It's just straight up hackery. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk I would file that under: leave the country, before they find the bodies. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Not every repair requires inspection. Only new install work. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That's exactly right. This is the reason for codes and licensing. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Check this out... wonderful... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Very fair for a powervent. About $200 less than the average price in my service area. And Bradford is the way to go. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

"I like that Bosch uses a standing pilot" = "I like spending more money in fuel bills annually". Huge waste of gas. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I use Navian. I like the Bosch boilers, but not a fan of their tankless heaters. I used to install Ranai years ago, don't like them either... NTI isn't so bad if you ever get the chance to use one. They're decent. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Bradford White, is only sold at supply houses. They don't do big box stores. I will get you one at my cost if you want one. You just have to come to Randolph to get it. That's where my supply house is located. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Tank less replacement maybe. But not an initial. Have to run vent, air intake, usually increase the gas line from 1/2" to 3/4" and they need power, so bring on the electrician too. Plus they need yearly maintenance. I'm not a fan of them personally. I'll put one in if they want it. But I don't push them. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Should have done it 3 years ago when the price was $500 less... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yep and that's average. I've heard guys charging $2100 for a natural draft, nat/gas 50. Power vents are even more. 3 years ago we were getting $900-1000. The prices on heaters has skyrocketed since the EPA won their battle, and forced the manufacturers to change their designs to be more efficient. Tankless units are going for around $3K installed. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Fine if you only use the shower. Try filling a soaking tub with one... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Average price these days for A typical 50gal replacement is $1500. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk They're slated to last 7-10 years. Beyond that it's a ticking time bomb.

You've been schooled lol. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk They're only good for 7-10 years. Beyond that, they're a ticking time bomb. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Or buy Varivents, instead of cheap ass maid o mists... Weil McLain doesn't make furnaces. They make boilers. That's my pet peeve and I will correct anyone that calls a boiler a furnace or vice versa. Maid O Mist = Hi-Point Varivent = Cabot 1911 Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

We put frost king on my buddies well line outside in his pit. It worked for two years. Then it took a shit. And his well line froze again. It's not a permanent solution, as I've said a few times. That particular brand is better than others, but none of them are an actual fix. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Exactly, you're heating a mass that stays hot with less energy, as opposed to heating air using more energy. That instantly cools off as soon as you remove the heat source from it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Yep... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk There is a solution, move the pipes. Or keep the water in those pipes moving all the time. Then they can't freeze. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Insulating pipes in an unheated space doesn't stop them from freezing. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Forced air is no where near as efficient as Hydronic heating. Not even in the same ball park. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I've done both ABS and PVC depending on the company I was working for. Personally I only use PVC, just easier to get here. Cast and copper on commercial almost always. High end spec houses PVC branches with cast stacks. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

When I used to do Toll Brothers back in the day. We did copper only. I was still an apprentice back then. Almost 20 years ago. We still used the bender and Type LBT or MBT. The good old days. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk CPVC was always a "down the shore" thing in NJ. We never see it up here. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I have to dig up some domestic pex roughs I've done. They're straight, neat and clean. But I also prefer copper. I'm old school too. The only thing I'll do with CPVC is rip it out to replace it with something else lol. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I can make pex look pretty neat. Gotta snap lines. And take your time. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Whenever you're not using the faucet it's using the cold as a return to the water heater. So when you open the faucet the valve closes under the sink, and your hot water is right there, just like using a conventional recirc line. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Yeah I feel engineers should be barred from purchasing tools lol. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I've seen some pretty amazing pex jobs. You would be surprised when a guy with OCD and plenty of time on his hands runs pex what it looks like.. I'm anal about my roughs looking perfect, regardless of what material I'm using. Here's one I found that an engineer did on his own house. I refused to service it lol... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Legally according to the National Standard Plumbing code 2015 adopted by the state of NJ. They allow us to vent tubs and showers this way. But not sinks, unless we have to, because there is no other way. Island sinks are usually the only exception. Beyond that it's up to the Authority having jurisdiction. Which is the township inspector. So that means when I turn in my riser diagram with the plans for a permit, he has to approve it before we can pipe it that way. It's completely in his hands. But a sink against a walk he will want the drain in the walk. If it's an outside wall the water lines must come through the floor. That's the way it is statewide, with very little exception. If the walls are 2x6 construction we can put the water lines in the outside wall as close to the inside as possible. But I'm not a fan of doing that either. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk