Malsua

I searched Ebay for genmon, not seeing anything. Got a link? I'll buy a pre-config

Telsa Powerwall 2. I'm considering one for my FL house. Solar charged, which is perfect for FL. LG has a system, Sonnen and even Nissan.

You mean 3600? All the big industrial ones we've had at our plants around the world are these massive 1800rpm behemoths. 200kw and up. 3600rpm diesels are not long haul machines.

The problem with Diesel is the fuel still degrades, and while it takes longer, it still has to be rotated. The other problem is wet stacking. You need to be sure to match your load to your generator size.

I had a 4000XL Generator before my standby. When I started it every 6months or so it was fine. When I left it longer, it'd need carb attention. I replaced the carb in that 3 times. Also, my Generac standby exercises once a week for 12 minutes. Keeps the mice away. What I don't have and I want to get is the WIFI link for it but I can't seem to figure out where to buy it. It may be a stealership only item in which case, they can suck it.

Does your windshield inside look like a sneezeguard at Chuck-e-cheese? Did you clean it? I'm not kidding, mine has never fallen off. It's been in a bunch of cars. I usually put the V1 in the mount and shove it at the window when I'm switching between my car and wife's. When I went to FL recently, it came out of my Acura, went into wife's CRV and back into my Acura. It never fell off. Maybe it's your technique.

I've been looking at the Telsa Powerwall for my Fl home. There are two other competitors but the technology is kinda perfect for Florida. Utilities are buried for the most part so outages are short except when a hurricane rolls through. It's FLORIDA so there is lots of sun for Solar. Finally the neighborhood is fairly densely populated, so no noisy generator.

Awesome. I've become quite fond of mine. I run it on little L, not big L. It mutes out the occasional K band proximity radar so I don't even notice it frankly. I do have a remote display from my old one. It works but the mute button on it does not. I think it's slightly not compatible.

You really just need to match whatever it says on the generator. If it's a 30a, then get 10ga wire. If it's 50a, then get 6ga wire. The surge capacity is just built into the response of the breakers. They can tolerate inrush surges for a X amount of milliseconds without tripping. The rated amperage of the plug and wire is for 80% nominal load. If your nominal load exceeds 80% of the rating, then you need some new equipment. There are 100% continuous load breakers, but you won't see that in consumer grade equipment. A standard breaker will ultimate overheat and trip at continuous(3 hours+) 100% load. It will probably trip long before 3 hours.

It may be possible to replace the receptacle with a standard 30a Nema receptacle from Home Depot. The plug for that one is not real common and expensive if you can find it. I see it for $185 from Grainger. McMaster has a 4 prong receptacle, 30A https://www.mcmaster.com/7164K74/ that might fit right in there, cheaper than the plug for that current one. You might find a similar thing at Home Depot. You might be better off just replacing the entire box.

Thanks. I'll advise my buddy today.

Two hots, a neutral and a case ground. Hubbel Non-nema 50 amp plug. Oof. Need to get a plug for that at Grainger or McMaster Local electrical house might have one.

It depends on the generator. Some generators are 110v only. Bigger(most) ones are 110/220. You really need to figure out if your generator is bonded neutral to ground because your panel is bonded. If your generator is, the bonding should be split because there should only ever be one path to ground. It's simply not possible in some generators but not the end of the world. Just a bit more of an electrocution danger and you should probably drive a spike into the ground and ground your machine. There are also different types of plugs, most are twistloks, but you need to examine both ends and get the NEMA description like (L14-30R) or such. YOu need a L14-30P to go into an L14-30R. Your transfer switch is similar. L14-50P for example.

You mean, install zoom. Get to a meeting, share screen? LOL. Yeah, at this point, I'm going with WAY past his ability. I could maybe get him to install teamviewer and read off the teamviewer ID and password and see if he's just clicking the wrong thing in the email. It really is stupid simple, I cannot fathom how someone can screw it up.

I finally got my buddy(Bill) to apply for his initial purchaser ID. He used me and another friend of his as references. I got the character reference in minutes, answered it. Done. His buddy, who apparently is only slightly sharper than a bag of wet mice, can't seem to figure out how to fill out the reference form. Maybe it doesn't work, maybe it's something else. I don't know. He can't seem to get it done despite Bill on the phone trying to help him get the page up. I've used Bill multiple times for pistol permits so he knows how to do it. I'd like to have Bill change one reference to a different friend(Allen). Allen is a friend to both of us, Bill has known Allen for 30 years and I've known Allen for 20 years and could stop by his house if he gets tripped up somehow. Is there any way to do this? I was thinking he could just stop by his PD, but hoped it was possible in the system.

I would suggest you do the math on your house and find out what your Max amperage usage is then size your generator appropriately. Also remember nat gas doesn't have as many BTU as propane, so the advertised rating of most standby gensets you see is the propane value. The Nat gas number will be lower(14kw/13kw for example). Most people are surprised at how little amperage they actually use so don't get a huge one. You can also buy the generator yourself and do most of the install, leaving the transfer switch to an electrician. You would need to get the permits yourself. I did this, I bought mine on Amazon before they started taxing too!. I poured the pad, got the generator onto the pad, dug the propane trench, got that inspected. The gas company hooked up the last 3 inches of pipe and the electrician hooked up the transfer switch since they attach it right at your meter. You may need a different gas regulator. You could also look into generlink. My electric company offers this. It costs about a grand and you hook your portable generator umbilical right at the meter. It handles the transfer. The generlink runs about 1k. You could get an 8-10k portable and go this route and get a tri-fuel kit that runs it off nat gas. It won't be automatic, but you will be able to run pretty much everything, even small window shaker ACs.

Didn't see this earlier. I used to use a Deep Cycle 12v battery and a 900watt inverter to run the fans on our insert. Back then we didn't have a furnace, the insert was our primary heat source. The deep cycle ran the fans about 12 hours. That was the longest outage where we used it, it may have gone even longer, I dunno.

If you are on a well and septic, as I am, when you are without power, it's sorta a big deal. This is why I have a 14kw standby generator. When Sandy hit, my basement would have flooded without the generator. Some neighbors went 7+ days over a number of storms in the past 10 years. Just throwing a bag of ice in your fridge doesn't cut it. Putting it in a cooler with some, you can keep some stuff but after about day 5, it's a soggy mess. You end up losing most of your frozen stuff and some of your refrigerated stuff. In the winter, you can usually put food outside, but hurricanes and ice storms come in the fall and early winter(where it doesn't get freezer cold) tend to be what takes out the power You can't flush the toilet. I've collected water outside for a flush, but unless you have a direct source, it's an issue You can't take a shower, even a cold shower. Eventually even your LED lantern's or coleman lanterns run out. I have moved temporarily to a hotel for a few days, fortunately the one time I did this I found one near work that had a generator(everywhere else was out). That virtually guarantees you lose the entire fridge/freezer. Yes, I will survive. No I don't want to shit in the woods and not shower. This is why I have a home.

My side of the lake got it last night about 5pm. This morning while walking Fitz, I could hear generators across the lake and see almost no lights. The traffic lights on 23 were out in a lot of places including through the main part of Butler/Riverdale. Zoom zoom, no slowing down!

There were some studies done on oil that was upwards of 45 years old by Blackstone labs. The result? Same specs as it was the day it was bottled. I think they even tested oil that was in non-sealed cans and the result was the same. Contamination is the only real issue, water infiltration being the biggest problem.

Pretty much, yes, fine. It will get some moisture in it that should boil out pretty quick. All oil degrades over time, the issue is, how long is that time, how exposed is the oil to the elements? In an engine crankcase, the answers, for the most part are a LONG LONG time since it's not really exposed. Is it ideal? Of course not. Is it going to be a problem, assuming liquid water wasn't dumped into the crankcase? Probably not. This is why most lawnmowers these days recommend exactly zero oil changes for the life of the mower. The wheels will fall off before the engine oil is an issue. (do add oil if it's low though)

Since I run the cams at work I pulled this one. The power blipped at just about the wrong moment, but I still caught the tree just as the car passed.

My section of Highland Lakes has been without power since about 1pm. Still on the generator now. I saw SREC said it could be as late as late Thursday before we're back. It said most should be back by 11pm Wednesday. The generator is fine, I checked the oil Monday night, it was clean and new, so I don't foresee any issues. I'll probably check the oil tomorrow night when I get home from Work if it's still running.

For me it's three things. 1. The Ka range is insane. I recently did a Florida trip and there were a LOT of ranged Ka way out of sight. I thought it was falsing at first, turned out it was just detecting it WAY WAY further than I was used to. 2. The collision/proximity falsing is non-existent. I did have the latest firmware on the old V1 but Hondas and Mazdas were always a problem. Now? With every band on, the V1 is quiet. 3. The laser falsing due to sunglare is non-existent. It was enough on the old V1 that I turned off laser. Laser is super hard to protect against without jammers, but I did once get a laser save many years ago. I got a flash, got shut down on speed, then came a long tone as he was hitting me. Eventually I turned it off. Currently on now, haven't got a single false yet. Yes, it's $500 or $389 on upgrade. That's one ticket if you get dinged on insurance but you're also right in that the old one is still good. It is just not as good.

So I looked at the rain gauge. 3.25 inches. Currently on the generator. Power is out.