DeerSlayer

I know a great guy for that. Let me know when you want his contact info. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It works like a chimney would. Just a constant draft from negative to positive pressure. If you don't have proper ventilation in the attic like soffits, baffles, gable vents, Ridge vent ect... then yes an attic fan is a must have. How many cfm does a properly installed cobra vent move? The answer is enough. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If you have central air, and your attic is insulated properly, as well as your ductwork (which is code), then an attic fan, really isn't doing much of anything useful. I will say they're nice when I have to go upstairs into an attic, in the middle of summer to fix a broken AC system... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

A lot of air moves through that Ridge vent if there are baffles installed down to the soffit. That's part of the install method for a Ridge vent. If insulation is blocking the soffit vents then they don't do shit. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Infamous lives in Mt Olive. Permit turnaround time is fast there. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

If he didn't already have baseboard heat, it would be a good option. They do both heat, and air with high velocity ductwork. There's a hydronic coil in them, you run one zone of heat to the coil from the boiler. Those systems are expensive, and are prone to breakdowns though. They do work well when you're not waiting 2 months for a replacement computer board. Out of all of them the Space pack is probably the best and most reliable. But it's also the most expensive. Personally I hate working on them. It's always electronics that fail, damper motors, fans, boards ect. I'm not a fan... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Heat rises, and if the attic has a Ridge vent or gable vents, with vented soffits there's no need for an attic fan these days. The attic floor itself should also be insulated. Attic fans are great for houses without central air. They're a waste of electricity if you do have central. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Yes then 2 systems would be needed, that's common as well. As long as the basement wasn't finished it can be done. And he doesn't mind spending double. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk No we insulate all the ductwork in the attic, and the air handler is insulated from the factory, for just that reason. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

You don't cool the hallway or the bathroom, you leave the doors open and the air will migrate in those rooms. If you want to do a ducted system you put everything up in the attic, and drop registers from the ceiling in each room. The return goes in the hallway ceiling. Downstairs is always tricky. Usually you have to sacrifice a closet for a trunk. Or you can do mini splits in the downstairs. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Intake grate for a Wave runner? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Talk to txt on my phone writes "Lambs" lol... I only like them with mint jelly... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I see it now, it's outside over the door. That's awful, what was over that? A portico? Or was it just wrapped with coil, really horribly? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Lambs n grooves Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Home made attempt, at a home run potable water system supply manifold. With an air test on it, cold side. And a bradford white power vent water heater. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

An old main beam, probably hand hewn. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Sk8board wheel bro... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That it is... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

No the temp switch is above this component. You're on the correct track though. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

What's this? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Washing machine drum. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

It should. York makes great equipment in my opinion. I've had very little trouble with any systems I've installed of theirs. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

There's schedule 40 or SDR 35 which is thinner. For what you're doing SDR 35 is fine if it's going to be burried. If it's going to be exposed to sunlight, I would recommend using schedule 40. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

York is 10 years parts, for a full system install. (Personally I prefer their Coleman line). One year labor the contractor is obligated by state law to provide. Everyone loves their Trane/American Standard units, until they break. And they can't get me a proprietary part for a 7 year old unit for 3 weeks, in the middle of July or in the middle of January. "Nothing can stop a Trane, (except waiting on parts)" is the saying in this business. They have aluminum coils, which cannot be repaired, only replaced. I would recommend anything but Trane. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Mini splits, Google it. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I deal in Carrier, Lennox, or York. I can get Trane too. But the major issues I find with Lennox and Trane/American Standard is proprietary parts only available directly from the manufacturer. Both Trane and Lennox are outside of Morris County into Passaic county. And half the time they have to order what I need a week later. Carrier/ICP or York parts I can get from any local supply house any time. 13 seer is all you need in NJ. It's a waste to go any higher for the 3 months of the year we actually use it here. Yeah fiber ductwork should be removed for sure, and replaced with properly sized metal wrapped ductwork, and proper R-rating flex duct to your takeoffs for each register. Air balancing is also important. So be sure along with the manual J calculation the duct guy is doing, you also get them to properly balance everything at the end. Bottom line is your going to get a 10 year warranty on equipment from every manufacturer on a complete install. Life expectancy of today's equipment is 12-15 years so brand really doesn't matter too much, but go with equipment above builders grade. Just about everyone has different levels of the same seer equipment. The better quality stuff with have more features like a crank case heater on the compressor, a high, and low pressure switch, a TXV metering device instead of a piston. And usually a hard start relay. Those are the major differences, and usually you get what you pay for is my best advice. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I agree. If it was waste pipe for effluent I would recommend staying with 3" because new toilets flush less water these days, and 3 works better. For storm drainage the bigger the better. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk