vladtepes

how many times have you stormed the beaches fighting Nazis with your milsurp carbines? because if you are not traveling back in time.. fighting historic wars.. you are just playing army..

if I am going to use a tool to possibly save my life.. possibly having to go to war with another human being.. that weapon is going to be a money pit.. and it is going to have EVERY advantage possible.. one of those is a $300 weapon light.. because I want the best most reliable equipment I can possibly buy..

if you plan to use a light in a self defense situation.. I think that the average person will be at a disadvantage with a handheld light.. it takes a fair amount of practice and dexterity to operate a light in one hand while shooting with the other.. in addition a light on your weapon leaves another hand to do things.. open and close doors.. drag someone back that has been shot or otherwise hurt.. make phone calls to 911.. you an do whatever you like.. but if you are going to use a gun for self defense.. in a possible low light situation.. not having a weapon light is silly..

so do weapon lights..

they also didn't have cars at one point... and put lead in paint.. doesn't necessarily mean its a good idea..

I only have purpose built firearms so that stuff has never really interested me.. but if I did..they have wood handgaurds.. I am sure I could cut a mount out of some metal and mount it..

I have a Surefire weponlight on every gun I own except the 43..

great thanks.. I just was not sure with stuff getting potentially knocked around... if it would be an issue..

Is there any concern with taking rounds out of the packaging and just storing them loose in an ammo can? I know this may be a ridiculous question.. but it just seams like I would be able to store so much more ammo loose in the can..

I ran an eotech, aim point, etc with a magnifier... and so far I like the trijicon accupower way more..

just like all AK TYPE guns are banned in NJ...

I agree with that.. I think that when people say "just as good" they are taking into account the finance aspect.. which is a false aspect.. if an optic is $50 and another is $9,000 and they perform ALMOST as well as one another.. it is a fair statement to say "the $50 is a way better value because its almost as good" but it is incorrect to say "the $50 optic IS just as good" I think they mean two very different things.. my Trijicon was not that much more than my PA scope.. the Trijicon is clearly made better.. night and day difference? maybe not.. but definitely better.. edit to add.. it WAS definitely more expensive.. but not like in the thousands.. LOL

I have a Primary Arms scope on my 308 AR, and a Trijicon on my 14in 5.56 AR.. the Primary Arms scope IS really nice.. or I would replace it.. but I personally do not think the quality is equal.. now as to if it is worth the substantial price difference? I don't know thats really a personal preference.. I think there are a lot of really good cost conscious optics.. but I don't think they completely replace top tier optics

My wife shooting my 308 AR out to 300 yards yesterday..

well went to the range today... with some random Hornady 308 I had left over.. not even sure what grain it is.. and the gun shot well.. I know there is room to improve but all shots on target.. my wife was even able to get on the bullseye... so its a start, but I definitely need more time.. what I would like to do is use the turrets to adjust for range as opposed to holding over as I feel like it will be more consistent for me.. but all the info you guys gave was dead on.. shooting uphill was really no different than shooting not uphill.. I think it just psyched me out because I thought there would be some weird black magic about it.. there is not.. LOL

this was EXTREMELY helpful thats for all the info.. looking at it like a big triangle made it substantially easier to understand..

so what you mean by this is normal adjustment for range, but slightly less adjustment due to the raise in elevation? If anyone is interested this is the exact shot..

292 yards to target 84ft in elevation between 0 and target what do I need to consider, I have made the shot with my 14in AR15 with a high hold on steel plate. I am going to shoot with my 308 AR but on paper so I am looking to see if I can do more than just ring a man sized steel plate. thanks

twist is 1:10

what bullet weight for a 16in 308 AR

So I normally just shoot standard Federal 308 FMJ ammo I think it is like XM80 or something like that.. its not right in front of me.. 7.62x51.. and its fine.. no complaints.. Just for fun.. what is some "premium" ammo I could run through a 308 AR.. I used to shoot a lot of Hornady TAP and that was good.. I guess what I am asking is 16in 308 AR.. if you could run any ammo through it what would you run? I am not in a position to reload 308 (yet)

I know ammo is expensive.. but I think about it like this.. take 5.56 I pay like .35 a round sometimes a little less when I buy bulk on a sale.. if "cheap" ammo is like .30 a round.. thats like $1.50 more per mag.. but then you also have to figure in every one of those .30 rounds that fails for some reason.. reducing the savings.. and obviously the aggravation factor.. so I just suck it up and buy good ammo that I know will function 100% of the time, and is consistent and accurate.. pay a little more for it and just consider it the cost of shooting.. as stated... if they are in C11 it is very unlikely that you will see a dime..

the link you posted is aluminum.. the threads are in the middle somewhere.. I THINK pinning that is going to be a real task..

I use oil.. sometimes gun oil.. sometimes motor oil.... the carbon build up tends to hold the oil in place well.. LOL

but you still feel comfortable trusting it? you think it was an odd one off?