Recon Racoon

Could be fuel delivery. I had the front tank closed off a couple months ago because of a blown sending unit. Kept over filling the tank and leaking our around the filler neck and off the frame rail. Getting that fixed is on my short list of repairs, but at 300 dollars its close to the bottom. Also rear tank pump and fuel filter on the frame were replaced in December. No check engine light either.

All right! So its fixed...and I'm just stupid. Turns out I didn't have my positive terminal tightened down enough...took it for a drive and its fine except for the original problem I was trying to fix. Truck sputters and shakes while driving. Nothing horrible, but noticeable. I'll work on it this weekend when I'm off again and see if it new plugs and wires are the answer or if its something a bit more complex.

Ok, so checked the fuses, nothing blew. Couldn't find the inertia fuel switch tj was talking about, I'll have to look for that later. Looking at the cap, I have it in the right order as compared to the diagram. Now the rotor is pointing at the top of the bend where the wires are tied together. So that would be at about the #2 plug. How would I go about bumping it to top dead with no power? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

AC discharge was on accident. I went to move the hose to get better access to the wire and ended up having it pop off and dump the compressor. I'm not to worried about not having AC, as it cuts out after I hit 45. My concern is that dumping the compressor caused something to go wrong and lead to my no start issue (unlikely I know, since the two components arent even next to each other, or related in any way). I have the worst possible luck so I just want to make sure I've taken everything into consideration that could have gone wrong. I did make sure I put everything on right. Luckily Ford makes it super easy to put the rotor on, and I made sure to put the original rotor back on when I put the original parts back on. I did not know this. I thought this had to be done when replacing the whole distributor, not the cap and rotor. As far as placing the wires on the right way, looking at the front of the truck and using the old cap as a guide I did (I think) put everything on the right way, but could have crossed a couple wires. If the whole order is messed up, will it kill the entire electrical system? Thanks for the help guys, my neighbor is a mechanic and when he gets home I'm gonna see if he can help me running these tests, and getting it fixed. Worst case, I've buggered the whole truck and I scrap it. Best case, I have a couple things crossed and it fires right up. ETA: This is the firing order diagram I used http://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2013/10/06/21/17/pic-4947389171776134702.jpeg

So I ordered a new dist. cap, rotor, spark plug wires, and spark plugs (didnt come yet). Went to install them today and took everything apart. First mistake was I unclipped the AC compressor hose (the low side? with the red cap) and evacuated the entire compressor. After that screw up (which I'm not sure if its that big or not) I got the new cap, rotor and plug wires installed. I think I had the right firing order (1,5,3,6,2,4), but I went to turn the key and got the fuel pump started but the truck didn't. Turned key off, cycled it again but no pump, no start, nothing. Replaced the new stuff with the old stuff and same problem. No start, no electrical, nothing. Truck is a 1990 F150 Custom 4.9L 300 CID straight 6. Where did I go wrong?

Not always. This skunk might have a birth defect that's causing him to die. Rabies would present with overly aggressive tendencies. But I'm not a veterinarian so take that for what's it worth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which is you very carefully use a cut off disc to cut the brake in half. You can touch up threads on the barrel if you have to, but you can't touch the structure of the steel once it hits critical temps. As far as silver soldering it on in the first place it shouldn't do much to damage the barrel since it's a quick application of heat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've looked at his site before, and it is going to be an expensive endeavor. If I knew I could pull it off competently I'd give it try, but this is something a pro might have to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You wanna know the worst part? I'm in better shape now than I was before I started working two years ago. I definitely think I'm going with the 10x12 ceramic shooter cut plates, now I just need to find the right carrier. Needs to have the side Molle for IFAK. But I won't be purchasing until I get my bills squared away.

If thats the case, then I feel a lot better about the 10x12 plates.

I think I'd rather go with ceramic than steel, and want to avoid HDPE all together. I just don't trust plastic yet because of thermal intolerance. But if any one can provide a link that has updated info on HDPE plates, I'd be more than happy to change my opinion. I've read that PDF a few times, and understand that a set of plates, properly fitted, cover from the sternal notch to the base of the diaphragm (back plates, top of the scapula to a mid point in the spine). I just want to make sure that the 2-300 dollars I'll drop on plates are going to cover the proper area (read: what if 10x12 isn't big enough to cover my fatness, reducing the survivability of taking a hit?)

This is something I've been thinking about, but how do you properly measure for plates? I'm a big guy, 5'10 and 245-250ish pounds. Besides measurements, what would a reasonable choice for plate carrier be? I'm thinking about something like this: http://www.ar500armor.com/ar500-armor-xl-carrier-w-armor-and-pouches-black-x-large-11-x-14-plates.html#.U7jHq5RdXuM Would that be a decent choice? Primary role of the kit would be Training>>>Home Defense>>>mass civil disturbance, with the last one being low on the list because I don't see everyone getting their panties in a collective bunch enough to get up and riot through two towns and a bunch of police but you never know.

I've always removed the pin, slid bolt to half cock, and removed barrel. Then move bolt to full battery and remove the trigger group. Is your safety on when trying to remove the trigger group? If it is, maybe that is causing your issues.

OK. Can we stop with the petty squabbles. He made a mistake, they happen, lets move on with life. And btw, the post you keep hammering on about doesn't apply any more. I found a decent used 2006, and a good used 2005. Topic doesn't apply to leasing a new car any more, but getting a loan on a used one (which is cheaper by about 100 dollars a month I'm figuring out.) The local banks were a bust. So I'm looking online now. Wells Fargo, or any one else that has a used car loan program. So if you guys have any suggestions for that I'm all ears. Now as far as purchasing a used car from a dealer, how much wiggle room is there for negotiations?

Good luck! Hopefully you get exactly what you're looking for! Today, I'm going around to a few different banks to compare used car loans. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After figuring out the sales tax for the car, it makes sense. If you buy at a new jersey dealer, your paying sales tax at the lot so it does make it easier to roll the sales tax into the loan. Title fees though, they're pretty inexpensive, usually costing less than 150 dollars for title and registration. So I don't get the whole thing of adding an extra 150 onto the loan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My big question is when setting up the loan is just the price of the car you borrow (well use 9500 as an example) and pay tax and title fees out of pocket, or do you borrow that as well? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was just looking at these too. And as far as I know, you'll never find the same rate twice for the amount you want to borrow. At least from what I've seen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it comes to breaking down costs, I can already tell you a new or newer used car is going to be less of a financial burden repair wise. In the year I've had my truck I've replaced the fuel pump (rear tank), master brake cylinder, and had to have the front tank closed off ( total cost to repair that is 600 at a shop 350 myself). Only paid 850 for the truck so I'm starting to hit close to what I paid for it. Now I did start looking at used cars, and found a 2006 mustang for under 9500, and a used car loan with small down payment would make it very affordable over buying new and paying thru the ass for it. Especially after seeing what my last check was... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Compared to financing where I'd be paying three times a month. For me it all comes down to what I can afford. And the simple fact is I can't afford to finance a damn thing. So I'm stuck with leasing or buying used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was just using a base model mustang as a guess base. I'd really like to get a GT but that's a pipe dream, so I'm aiming for just the V6 coupe with some add ons. I crunched some numbers a little while ago budget wise and with out getting into the details of my financial life (I'm not married to any of you lol) I'd be able to swing a payment of around 240-250 but really want it to be as low as possible. And in my research on leasing was really turned off on all the little hidden fees they throw in there to make you pay through the nose. As far as insurance goes, I already found one that would be around 135 a month after the down payment which is only 25 dollars more than what I'm paying now for my truck. I haven't even test driven anything yet, so my decision may change... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I've been looking at leasing a new car to replace my aging, breaking f150. I've been considering getting a ford mustang because I get a decent discount for ford through my company. The thing I can't figure out is what would be the real monthly payment. On fords website, it comes up as 221 a month for the basic model, but would it really be? How much would I expect to add onto what I saw online? This is the first time I'd be buying a new new car so I have no idea what to expect. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with the Edwin jagger after Christmas and like it more than disposable razors. I had been using the Gillette fusion for a few years before switching to safety razors. I do wish that it would shave a bit closer, but it's a minor complaint in the grand scheme of things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a Japanese officers sword from WW2, and the tsuka and tsuka-ito need to be replaced. Does anyone know of a place that does this kinda work? I tried google, but didn't trust some of the websites I cam across.

I use Murray. After weed eater failed me for like four years running, made the switch to a 22" inch cut deck mower and string trimmer from Murray and love it. Went from small diameter string to .095 and it eats anything I point it at. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk