High Exposure

Ok. So, explain this to me... • Why do you need to freely change muzzle devices? • What advantage does this offer in the “real world”? • Do you actually have different devices for different applications? • If so, do you routinely swap them out? • If so, do you follow the manufacturers recommended installation method - to include timing/shims/rock set/etc...? • How many times have you actually used this “feature”? Other than testing different devices, or someone that is trying different suppressors, I don’t know anyone that actually swaps muzzle devices on a regular basis. I have a device I like and that’s it. I have never once said, “damn, I wish I had a different muzzle device today....” The advantage of the short barrel is to have the short barrel. One advantage for having an “Other” is the ability to use a flash hider instead of a brake or compensator. IMO, pinning my preferred device (Surefire Warcomp) to a shorter barrel and losing the ability so “freely swap” muzzle devices - something that isn’t really an advantage and I would never do anyway - is a no brainer. Pin the Warcomp and have a shorter overall barrel. But maybe I am missing something.... Now, if you said I prefer 12.5” because the ballistics of a 12.5” barrel are superior when compared to a 10.5”, I would agree 100%.

What?? I have never heard of a malfunction like that. What does a pinned stock have to do with anything?

Caana: She is half Yorkie and half Maltese (called a Morkie). She’ll be 13 this November. Vader: She is a Kerry Blue Terrier and will be 6 in December.

This isn’t quite accurate, but it is a rough interpretation of the data. .223/5.56 rounds tend to lose velocity faster and break up into smaller pieces after passing through common US building materials. Whereas handgun and buckshot/slugs tend to retain much of their mass and velocity after passing through the same barriers. As such, wounds from smaller, lighter and slower tend to be more survivable than those from bigger, heavier, and faster; ergo - AR rounds are considered a “safer” choice than shotgun or pistol rounds CONUS for use while FISHing. Realistically, a round from any firearm chambered in a defensive round has the potential to kill someone after passing through modern US construction materials. The AR rounds just tend to lose some of their “lethality” faster.

That break is NJ legal - as it is a brake and not a flash hider. You have it backwards - Brakes and comps generally have a closed front with a smaller aperture sized to fit the round exiting the muzzle. Hiders generally have big openings that let the gas and flash escape out the front - So the theory is - if the pinky fits, it is a hider and not a brake. However, as Fishnut said, the “pinky test” is BS. What matters is how the device is marketed and sold.

That, unfortunately, sounds about right...

Fun fact: Glocks have thumb shelves - that’s what those silly little indents on either side at the top of the grip are considered. It’s an Import point if the pistol has “sporting” features. Just like the serrated “Match” triggers in the compact (G19 size) and subcompact (G26 size) models (the smaller barrels lose a point, so the “match” triggers make up for it. Without them, Glock could not import their pistols - like the .380 Glock 25 and Glock 28. They aren’t in the US because there aren’t enough Import points as the .380 is not considered a “sporting” cartridge. All that aside - Excellent read Bob. That Hi-Standard looks like something from Buck Rogers.

Is that top rail MLOK? CD makes a direct attach MLOK Mount if I remember correctly. The only Streamlight light I recommend is the TLR7a. I have had bad luck with their stuff, especially their rifle lights. It’s almost comical. My friends that use them won’t let me touch their rifles because as soon as I am near one, it will fail.

Let’s not get crazy folks. A quality RDS can do everything required of a 16” carbine simply and affordably and is perfect for a new AR shooter. Not that @Wheeler2.0 ain’t up to the challenge, but there is no need to be challenged. RDS provides a forgiving sight picture with a fast learning curve and easy hits out to 300yards. This translates into quicker mastery. Quicker means less ammo used in training and practice, which means less money required to reach the conscious competence level of achievement (The 3rd of the 4 levels) which is the where you need to be to be considered proficient with the carbine. No need to overload the learning curve at this point with magnification complications, FFP vs SFP head math, mechanical offset estimation at different mag, and flight path of a projectile when rifle is rolled 45* inboard when compared to your chosen zero distance. None of that is terribly difficult when you have a solid grounding of the basics to reference, but for a new AR shooter is like drinking from a firehose. So, if you can’t tell, I vote for an RDS for a first/only rifle. Can’t go wrong with an Aimpoint. PRO is great for the money. T2 is the bees knees, but twice as expensive. Trijicon MRO is a good compromise at roughly the price of the PRO and a footprint closer to the T2. Holosun also makes a great RDS for the price. The 503 is unbeatable for the price. Whatever you do, don’t skimp on the mount! Buy quality - My Holosun optics have mounts that cost as much as the optic, and they are worth every penny. The PRO comes with one that is fine. You’ll have to choose one for the others. Lower 1/3 is the way to go. LaRue, Geissele, American Defense Manufacturing, Daniel Defense, Scalar, BoBro, are all good choices.

Decent WML on a budget - Olight Odin. Little bulky with their crazy mount. High-end quality and performance (and crazy expensive) - either a Modlight PLHv2 or Surefire M600DF on an Arisaka Scout Mount.

Now you need a good optic!

Good choice! That configuration can do it all.

@Zeke

Thanks again PB! I always enjoy reading these threads.

What the fuck is taylor ham? She some new Pop star on the radio? Welcome to the forum!