Barms

Where can I find a track that has go karts for kids as small as 5? My kid has maxed out his power wheels that I’ve upgraded to 18 volt. It goes about 15 mph. The 25 volt Razor does not have an adjustable seat. I want to get him on go karts now. All the places I’ve called says 5 years old is too young. for the rentals. I was told there is a place in wall called mini outlaws or something but there is no phone number for them.

Blknracer that’s what I’m hoping my situation will be. Just barely warm enough to keep it running. can anybody answer the question about if it did auto shut down, Would it start up on its own when it’s safe? Or does it stay off until a manual replug the outlet?

put a fridge/freezer in the garage this spring. as I understand it at some point of cold (34 degrees?) the whole thing will shut down and you jeopardize the food in the freezer section will melt. I'm looking for strategy/experiences with this. yes I know there are heater kits. questions: If it shuts down will it start back up automatically when its safe? are you guys okay with that or do you just plug/unplug on your own when you know its gonna get very very cold? Or is the best option to just clear out the freezer when you know its possibly gonna shut down? I would only have to clear out the freezer part right? because refrigerator items wont "melt" if the fridge shuts down because of cold. I'm interested in hearing your experiences. thanks. Oh.. the garage is attached garage.. I've never actually checked the temp on coldest days of winters but obviously I will now. FWIW its mostly "above freezing" in the garage because anytime I bring the car in the ice melts off the car.

This has probably come up before. Just link if it has please. Man time really does fly. I cannot believe it but I think it’s gonna be 3 years. Jesus is that possible? As soon as the kid got to 2 and became “needy” all the free time just disappears.. poof. I had a good reason to take the first year off. The kid. Then the second year excuse was I was gonna wait for the GFH range to to completed for members only area. Now I can’t believe Another year is gonna go by. So interesting to note the finger print vault for the HG battery lasted a year when I opened it to ditch the 15s. I just replaced it. But the LG vault I haven’t even attempted in probably 2 years. Is it just like riding a bike? Yeah my eyes are probably worse. Has anybody here taken off an extended period of time? I think I was a pretty darn good shooter. Bunch of training and I even used to hit some steel on Sunday nights but man I cannot believe that was almost 3 years ago. PS. And what’s crazy is I still paid the dues on GFH and NJ Trap the entire time.

Update. The $9 tester cane today. The Ethernet port in the wall is fine. It appears that maybe the port from the SWITCH I was using is bad!! Mother f*cker. Stay tuned. But at least this tester is making sure my CABLES are functioning. So now my issues are signal/switches. Thank you all for the help !!

Okay great I’m gonna get one of the above. Thanks! yes Scorpio I have tried another device. I tried my network Access Point dish.

Sniper. I guess I didn’t think of that tester as what would work. So I would need two cables that I know work and then plug one end of the tester into the bedroom port. Then I go into the basement patch panel and take another cable that I know works and then keep trying different ports until it lights up ? i thought with these cheap testers you press a button and it’s goes green down the tree for each copper wire. And I couldn’t use that I can’t be in two places at once. Do any others work that I can plug one in to the room and then walk to the other room and see if signal comes through ? thank you for your help.

I'm frustrated with why a network signal is not coming through an Ethernet port in my home wired network. My router is in the basement and I was told every room has an Ethernet line to the "manifold thing" in the basement next to the router. I have had much success plugging a desktop PC into the wall Ethernet in one bedroom. I plugged my Sonos mesh router into another bedroom wall Ethernet port and it works. Now I'm trying to set up another desktop PC into another wall Ethernet and its not getting the signal. Now, the issue here I have like 13 inputs on that "manifold" thing in the basement. And the guy didn't label which ports go up to each room. I've literally gone up and down the stairs 50 times plugging and unplugging to try to see why this one room wont get an Ethernet signal. So I'm trying to think of a way that I can originate a signal FROM the room down to the basement and then I could just easily plug in and out the various ports until I find the HOT one that is receiving the signal from that room. Is an Ethernet transmitter tester thing really like hundreds of dollars? thanks for you ideas.

If you think medium of exchange is the primary purpose of “money” you got a lot to read up on history wise. And I say that not as an insult. The perfect money is 1. Store of value. 2. Unit of account. 3. Medium of exchange. It’s impossible to be all 3 but What the hell good is buying a hot dog if the purchasing power is declining? you can store your assets in money that buys hot dogs I’ll take money that is not inflatable or censorable Oh, I forgot to say the ponzi money

Banks are closed tomorrow. Bitcoin is never closed. hot dogs and beers for the fans of the freedom money. disclaimer: it’s a Ponzi I always gotta throw that in there.

Thanks guys. Totally didn’t think of the firewall issue. If I’m gonna spend a penny on a new router or antennae I might as well just buy the Boost. My WiFi is exceptional in the house because of the Unifi model QA UAP LR its just that the Sonos Play 1 ignores the Unifi !! Even if it’s 12 inches away. I am pushing 150 MPs next to the Unifi and the Sonos can’t find it. (Online someone said the Unfi defaults to 5g and you have to take it down to 2.4. I’m not gonna do that. Regarhung the idea about putting the router in the office and then Cat5 back to the basement I only have one Cat5 to each room. Screw it im just gonna buy the Boost. I think it’s bullshit that Sonos won’t commect good to some mesh hardware. But apparently what i read is that tech is going the way of all products having their own mesh. It’s actyaullg better for all the devices or so they say.

Or can it be anywhere in the LAN from a switch? ISP wireless router in the basement. Signal always sucked. Had great success adding Ubiqiti Unfi extender in middle of the house. Just bought a Sonos Play 1 for the patio. The god dam Sonos doesn’t recognize extenders. I called Sonos. They told me I need a $99 boost. now, I have Cat 5 all over my house. Does the router do it’s job ANYWHERE on a LAN? Or does it need to be first in line from the modem? what I want to try is go from modem into a switch, then one line from the switch to an upstairs bedroom that would be the new central location for the router. This is a connected line. from the switch in the basement i would connect the other various things I had connected (alarm, smart TV etc) all connected down there. so again. Instead of this order: Modem, router, switches. I want to try: modem, switch, router. This new router location would be a dead end. Nothing coming “from” the router. Just a cat 5 plugged into the router from a switch from the modem. And it’s important to note it’s from SWITCH to router Not just direct from router in another room That switch “before” the router will drive another switch in an office. so like let’s say right now i got 8 devices off of 2 switches coming out the router Now I want to try to slice those 8 devices “before” the router connection. Because I want the router location more down steam . So does a router “feed” the LAN or can it just be a location on the LAN ? It’s a combo router and wireless from optimum. I really don’t need a separate wireless I have that already via my Unifi. I just want to router out of the basement now where the modem is.

I don’t know why. But I really love the tank on the outside now instead of inside the double doors. So I say Weber

529 is a beautiful thing but should only be utilized if you have maximized your own 401k or IRA. Which most people don’t. Honestly the 529 is the nirvana for anybody else who wants to help fund college that is NOT the parents. Parents should focus on retirement savings first. If grandparents or aunt uncle god parents want to “give some money to the kid help out the college fund”. Then tell them to set up a 529 for the kid, or give it to the parents and the parents put it in the 529. If parents aren’t maximizing their own tax efficient funds they should not be contributing to 529. (If it’s someone else’s money then 529 all the way). if the aunt uncle grandparent godparent wants to give a check but they don’t want to be aggravated setting up the 529 it’s perfecrly legal for them to gift the money to parents then parents put in 529. if you are feeling really frothy As of 2018 529 money can now be tapped for private K-12 too. So if Don Bosco was your goal you can tap the 529 for private HS too.

If it’s a 529 plan since the money grows tax free if kid doesn’t need it you pay 10% penalty + income tax rate on any GAINS from the money. if it’s a UTMA account (mentioned above) that’s not actually an “education” plan. That’s just money gifted to the kid, it’s his free and clear and he can blow it all on coke and whores if he wants to (this is not a dig on the parents who set up UTMAs I’m just saying legally it’s the kids money, not the parents money. It was an irrvevicable gift). 529s are the holy grail if paying for college is your goal in life. If it’s a “maybe” goal then just keep the money in your own separate account that is earmarked for college (you gotta have will power to keep it separate thiugh) if you dont have the will power to segregate funds then do the UTMA you are gifting your kid the money irrevocable and he can spend it on college or start his own company with it. We advise people that if you are 10000% sure you want to pay for college then 529 to the max. If you are a “my wish is pay for college but I gotta take care of myself” then maybe do a 50/50 of 529 and separate account earmarked for college. That way if you need the money it’s still yours.

There are things you can control and things you can’t control. The shielding of assets things you cannot control you have no idea what your fortunes will be a decade from now. (Rich, poor, divorced, disabled). There is only one thing you can be certain. Compound interest and tax free returns. (Yes I know tax codes can change, just go with the message I’m trying to say here). People take for granted the power of tax free gains for a decade of contributions to a 529. Your age matters big time. If you will be under the age of being able to tap an IRA or 401k when college is due you should be maxizing 529 contributions. If you will be able to tap a Q plan when your kid in college then don’t max your 529 max your 401k or IRA. as far as “which state is good”? It’s not the state it’s the fees. If you know In your mind what investment vehicl you will pick regardless of the state. (I chose SP500) then I don’t give a crap what state it is the returns are the same. sounds like you know a ton already just by knowledge of the NY tax break not applicable to NJ peeps. If you feel deep down that you would pay for college almost first before thinking about your own retirement (please let’s not judge that) then the 529 max is the way to go primary. If college help is “hopefully” bit not to the detriment of your own Q plan maximizing then you max your plans first then 529 after. again, tax free is a godsend. That is more sire thing then trying to play the financial aid game. For those really tax savvy here yes I get the difference a Q plan is PRE tax a 529 is post tax, however the timing of the withdrawal matters. If you are gonna be 60 when first college check goes out you could tap a Q plan without penalty that leaves you the option of having the cash for yourself if on a fluke the kid gets a scholarship or chooses not to go to college.

I know the halle thing is Hollywood. But In a real competition she would get flagged for not keeping muzzle down range during reloads right? She’s like 90 degrees with the rifle reloads. Im not being a hater just trying to learn.

Bring the heat though. It’s all good. I love you guys. I haven’t been on here a while. Nor shooting in a long time. Damn kid stuff takes all my time. I’m just trying to really plead a good thing here. I think the outcome POSSIBLITY is worth the risk. I don’t want to change anybody’s mind. If it’s not for you it’s not for you. I need a little more risk in my portfolio.

Guys cmon. Stop it with the “but what about the $8k? The $12k? The $20k? It’s so infantile to judge the performance of anything by the last absolute highest peak. Like you think the only entry point of anything is at the peak? So amazon is up like 80,000%. But it’s off the peak. If someone said to you I own Amazon are you gonna call them sucker because you think their only entry point was the peak? Please. Stop it with the “but what about the prior high price?” Talk.

The Ponzi just broke $6k. I’ll check back at $10k. Remember. A small part of your portfolio should be in Ponzi schemes. The payoffs could be could be good. :-)

Probably too soon for this. (Can’t tell If I posted the quote right on my phone it was capt 14k telling me I was wrong). But for all my haters. One of the great things that can come from a “bubble”. Is that it can attract those who would not have known about it if not for the bubble. If you were accumulating under $5k you’re feeling pretty good right now. If you sold, you should never have bought. (Options that never expire should never be sold.). I will say this again. The assymetrical outcome of this thing is warranted the risk. 100% down and 10,000% up. One thing I have “matured” over the past year in arguing about this thing is I’m just gonna admit it’s a Ponzi scheme. Fine I’ve said it. It’s a Ponzi scheme. That way we don’t have to argue about it anymore. “I have a small portion of my portfolio in Ponzi schemes and bubbles, because frankly the outcomes can be pretty huge” my Ponzi scheme prediction for 2021 price is $50,000. (This is based on a stock-to-flow analysis that has a 90% R^2 when backtesting gold and silver too. DM me if you want that study) Whats more important? “The truth” or assymetrical outcomes? (And save me the lottery ticket outcome argument. It’s not the same thing). Long Ponzi. Short monetary policy. im at peace with the vocal non believers now because I’m with you it’s a farce, it’s fake, it’s a Ponzi, there is no need for a digital global currency. I’m in it strictly for the greed now. :-) 3 cheers for global monetary non censorship non inflationary Ponzi scheme!

To squash any complaints that NJ people filing suits against 2A rights can’t pile on “and did you know my town takes 5 months even though they know the law is 30 days!?!” I can see the logic. Give the bone so the dog doesn’t jump on the table

The site says do not need to fingerprint again!?!? Hot diggity dog i gotta tell ya, yes I hear you on the lack of potential privacy thing. But I’m leaning to the side of relief from nazi type town documentation wven though it’s illegal it still happens. Calling employers? Bullshit like that. And 5 month wait times? If I have to sacrifice my POTENTIAL loss of privacy i will do it for the cause of helping my other brothers out who suffer.

I won’t feel comfortable prying anymore about this than this: So exemptions was $8k then last year. That means you got over $16k in salt before you breach $24k standard. $5k more in total tax is like $25k “more” income (or less deductions). Do you pay like $30k in property taxes? Don’t answer that! And no windfalls from stock gains or anything? This is weird.

I’m running numbers again Itemized for married now is $24k. I know over &200k income is automatic AMT. so let’s do $150k. That’s $9k state tax. Let’s say $9k porpeety that &18. Of family of 4 that’s &16. So 32k deductions vs $24k standard. &10k At 25% or whatever. That’s a $2500 extra. Anything lower incomes then standard kicks in and go higher you’re AMT and most certainly should win. I means if someone is a &20k property tax guy but has an income lower than AMT level, yeah I guess you can get hit. But how you’re surviving that salary versus property tax ratio then god bless. Maybe four kids crushes it? I haven’t dissected the exemptions effect. I only really know the itemized effects