maintenanceguy

If there was a way to make money doing it, somebody would do it. There would be a way to make money running businesses and everyone would be back at work in 6 months if the government would just stop fixing the problems.

here's the search I did: www.gunwatcher.com/gun/76AE666E8AF3/10%2f22

I actually had a machine shop mill the groove for me. I have one piece of the milled angle left but I'm holding onto it. I'm toying with the idea of mounting the scope a little more forward and that would require making a second mount. I'd never get a stripper clip in there now but I can still load from the top. I never considered loading from the bottom. I did drill the receiver. Three 1/4-28 tapped holes in the receiver and four #6-48 tapped holes in the scope mount for the scope base. This was actually the most difficult part for me. I figure that with a 4" scope base (approximately) if I'm off by .001" on one end of the base, that's 1" at 100 yds. The scope has a limited adjustment range so I wanted to be as parallel to the barrel as possible both up and down and left and right. It took a lot of redneck engineering and I ended up off by 8" at 100 yds with my scopes windage and elevation adjustments set to the center of it's adjustment range. I was quite happy with that. Here's the bent bolt

Mosins don't come with any provision for mounting a scope - unless you spend $500 on a sniper. Even then, you're stuck with the 1940's scope that comes with it. There are a couple of after-marked scope mounts that I didn't like. One is a cantiliever mount that requires drilling and tapping the barrel and one replaces the rear sight and requires a scout type - long eye relief scope. I wanted to mount a regular scope in the normal position so I came up with this. It's just a piece of 90º angle with a groove milled to fit on the round receiver. I also had to replace the original bolt handle with a bent bolt handle to make room for the scope so I drilled off the old handle and welded a 5/16 grade 8 bolt in the saddle left by the drill bit. I then drilled the original ball knob and welded that on the end of the 5/16 bolt.

Great tool. Thanks. Maybe an explanation of how search terms are searched or an option for "exact phrase" might be nice. I searched 10/22 and got everything with these two numbers but no Ruger 10/22 rifles. "10/22" gave no results.

Here's a tip that works for prepping and for anyone who is budget minded while shopping for groceries. Most stores place the same items on sale several times a year. In fact, these items often go on sale on a regular, repeating schedule every 6 to 10 weeks. When you see one item on sale, buy enough to get you through to the next time it is on sale. We have done this for years with staple items. We typically have two dozen jars of spaghetti sauce, 5 boxes of cereal, and lots of other items in bulk because we bought enough to get us from one sale to the next sale.

Can't help her until she's ready for help. Things unfortunately need to get worse first and then she'll probably be back a half dozen times before she finally decides to be gone for good. and prohibition doesn't ever work in any situation. Trying to take his magazines or ammo isn't going to change a thing.

I know I'm gonna get killed for sharing this but this is what I did once. 30-06 squib. It was a family member reload. Like you, bullet was stuck. I used a brass brazing rod to try to push it out and I think I just made it worse by expanding the bullet when I pushed. It was stuck! I was able to reach the bullet with a very long (12", 18" ?) 1/4" drill bit. I covered the full length of the bit with a couple or maybe even 3 layers of shrink tubing so the bit couldn't touch the side of the barrel and drilled out most of the bullet. Once I had a hole in the bullet, the rest easily pealed away with the brass rod. I'm not suggesting this because I don't want to be responsible for ruining your gun but desperate times call for desperate measures and I'm no stranger to some red neck engineerin'.

OSHA applies to all "workers". If people work at the range, it applies.

I have to pass a background check to get a permit that lets me go to the ffl to pass a background check.

O in osha stands for occupational. Osha laws cover "workers" not just employees. They should not be able to cite members nor are they interested in the health of members. They will contact other agencies (Dept of Health, EPA, etc.) if they think they see something that's outside of their authority. Collectively, EVERYTHING and EVERYONE is under their authority.

OSHA's permissible exposure limit (PEL) for lead is 0.050 mg/m3 For an 8 hour exposure time. I suspect the lead exposure will only apply to indoor ranges. OSHA has lots of rules that need to be followed. Even the OSHA inspectors dont' know half of them. Every violation found is a new fine. Fines can easily reach into the tens of thousands of dollars. OSHA never leaves and says "good job". OSHA is one of the significant factors in our current state of the economy. It's hard to create jobs when you have an agency who's job is to shut down employers. I'm not suggesting that there should be no oversight but I feel about OSHA the same way I feel about DYFS. I have seen abuse and wanted to call someone. The problem is that the only people to call are DYFS (or OSHA) .

http://news.yahoo.com/record-setting-rocket-launch-loft-29-satellites-tonight-131841174.html We watched the last one about a month or two ago. It's launching from Wallops Island in VA. Launch window is 7:30 - 9:30. Last time NASA had a live feed via the internet and they launched right at the beginning of the launch window. Watch the South horizon from somewhere without trees or buildings. It does not go straight up. It travels toward the East. Last time you could see several stages fire over 3 or 4 minutes. It was very worth it. Hoping to see something cool again.

Believe it's an AOW (any other weapon) since it's a gun that looks like something else. Same classification as the gun wallets or gun walking sticks. Very cool.

Permit pulled through the town, county dept. of health has to approve. This is all handled by the drilling company - they pull the permits, you need a license to do this work. However, growing up on a farm, we owned a small portable drilling rig and I have participated in drilling wells.

All wells draw water from the sandy layer at the bottom of the well. The casing - or pipe has a perforated section at the bottom. The sand stays on the outside and the water flows into the pipe through a fine screen section. The rate at which water flows from the sand into the well casing determines how fast you can draw water from the well. Usually, 5 gal per minute is the target and if it can't deliver this, they keep drilling deeper. You'll never hand pump 5 gal per minute so your well should be adequate for a hand pump. The problem is this. The most common type of hand pump, a pitcher pump, pulls water up using a vacuum. Physics Lesson: The pump creates a vacuum as you pump it and it's actually the air pressure pushing down on the water that forces it up to the pump. Atmospheric air pressure is about 15psi. The weight of a column of water 30' tall has a pressure at the bottom that is 15psi. So... you can only use a pitcher type hand pump if you have water in your well within 30' (actually a little less) of the pump. My well has water at 23' so I can use a pitcher pump and I have one ready to be screwed on the top of the well casing. If your water is deeper than about 30 feet (probably really closer to 26 or 27'), you need a different type of pump. This type of pump has a long rod that reaches down into the water and the actual pump sits at the bottom and pushes water up as you pump the handle. This is more complicated, more expensive, and more fragile. In an emergency, a weighted cup on a rope will pull plenty of water from a deep well. The weight makes sure the cup sinks to fill with water.

Ole Bull Camp Ground is about 5 hours from the border but well worth the drive. Beautiful area, excellent campground. Right in the middle of the free part of America.

Did anyone catch the photo caption: "Five of the top 10 counties with the highest percentage of obese residents are in the southern part of New Jersey." That's like saying: "half of fat people live in half of the state"

I don't know. I'd remove the chuck, and run the drill checking for any run-out on the shaft. It sounds like it's either a bad bearing or the shaft's bent or was made off center. I can't imagine bending the shaft on a hand drill.

cobolt drill, slow turning, lots of pressure, lots of coolant. A drill press is going to make this easier. Probably very hard to do with a hand drill since it's hard to apply enough pressure to keep the bit cutting and a bit that isn't cutting will work harden the metal. A hand drill won't run true and can contribute to a bit breaking.

I'm not a facebook guy either. But it takes 5 minutes to sign up and get involved. Worth the work in my humble opinion.

No secrets - just hundreds of posts a day. Some topics - like ccw get 200 in a day. There's no way to share that volume of information in a post here. And don't blame NJ2AS for having a busy facebook page. Their other option is to shut the page down and not let anyone participate.

And then what. A thousand denials. What do we do with them? I'm not suggesting that applying in large numbers is a bad idea. I just want to have a plan.

No, NJ2AS is a very busy group on facebook. I wasn't a facebook user either and joined for just that group. I'm not a facebook guy. I have one facebook friend and belong to one group. I won't even accept my wife's friend requests. It's worth creating a facebook profile to get involved.

This will never happen in NJ unless it's well organized, coordinated with the current cases pending before the courts, and done with some sort of end game plan. Just applying gets us nothing. Visit the NJ2AS facebook page and see what's happening there.