medved11

Thanks for your help - I appreciate it!

I got the wheels off the car this weekend and took a look at the bushings. They're definitely cracked on both sides of the car but they didn't split open when I used the pry bar on the arm.

+1 for Mike (Tier 1)

I tend to be a “steady” drive most of the time and do mostly highway driving with it, so I don’t think that I’ve beat on the car too much. I did a little research today on TrueCar and the Subaru prices don’t seem to horrible with the USAA discount Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah - okay (learned something new) I just looked up a diagram on the control arm and I know what I’m looking for now once I can pull the tires off Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been changing the rear diff fluid according to Honda’s recommended interval (which I can’t remember offhand). I ran out to the parking lot and took the following pictures of the bushings by turning the wheels as far as I could and shoving the camera behind the wheel. I definitely see cracks towards the top) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I forgot to mention two other issues that the shop mentioned to me in their write up... First, they said that the current transmission fluid smells "burnt" and suggested that I change it, which I told them to do while they were doing the oil change and the rear differential fluid.Does them saying that the fluid smells "burnt" indicate a possible transmission issue is brewing? Second, they mentioned that my radiator fluid is "acidic" and suggested that I have them flush the radiator and refill. I told them that I want to hold off on that since I'm thinking that (since it's the original radiator but the fluid was replaced at around 100k), the flushing may end up causing a leak and therefore a new radiator for me. Am i overthinking this or could the flush cause me some problems. Would it be better just to drain and refill the fluid on my own (without the flush)?

I can't tell you how many times I've run that argument through my head today.

No worries on that count - one trip to the ER this year for a stupid mistake in the garage was more than enough for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the advice - I’ll pull the tires this weekend and do the pry bar test and see how they look. I’ll post some pics here if I can get a decent angle Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Understood- the CRV has never been what I’d call “sporty”, so I’m always keeping my fingers crossed when I have to pull out into traffic or overtake someone on an incline. Our other car is VW GTI which feels like a Formula 1 car when I get to drive it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How is the acceleration in the Impreza? That’s been the one “complaint” that I’ve seen with the Crosstrek. However, if I’m being honest, the CRV isn’t exactly a performance car either, so I doubt I’d even notice a difference. I’m in the same boat with the manual transmission. I’d love to have one again but my wife just can’t seem to get the hang of it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That seems to be the direction that my gut is taking me but I’ve been enjoying the past couple of years without a car payment every month Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got quotes from 2 dealer shops and one private shop. To be honest, I haven’t noticed any difference in handling or tire wear. I need to pull the tires off and check the bushings myself. The shop that noticed them just said that they were “cracked/torn”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Based on the KBB trade-in calculator, I'm looking at about $4k in trade-in value. I actually had to replace the original AC compressor last spring as well I was honestly hoping to get this car through the winter and pick up something new next summer but that was before I found out about the issue with the control arms. They also mentioned that I'm going to need to think about replacing the shocks soon as well, not to mention that I'm going to need new tires by mid-winter as well so I'm looking at about ~$1500-$2500 in maintenance costs. Given all this, I'm starting to lean towards the idea that the money may be better spent towards picking up something new since I won't really recoup the money if I'm going to let it go in the near term. It's a tough decision because the car has been extremely reliable overall

I'm looking for some advice... I've got a 2008 Honda CRV with about 230,000 on the odometer. Overall, it's been a reliable car but it's slowly starting to show its age mechanically, so I'm wondering if I should fix the latest issue that it's having or just admit that it's time to let it go and buy a new car. The latest issue is that the control arm bushings on both sides are apparently starting to crack and tear. I just got an estimate of $1,500 (parts/labor) to replace the arms on both sides. I was all for fixing the car at first but I'm starting to wonder if that money would be better spent on a new car. Right now I'm looking at the CRV or a Suburu Crosstrek as a replacement. I'm also thinking about possibly getting a lower mileage used car since my daily commute is about 70 miles roundtrip. On a similar topic, can any current Crosstrek owners let me know their opinion on the car? Would you buy another one? How are they on the highway?

PPU is good stuff. ZQI 7.62x51 is good as well if you can find it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've used some Wolf steel case .308 in my M1A in the past without any issues but I definitely prefer using brass case ammo. One thing that I noticed after using Wolf is that the chamber of my gun was much dirtier than it is after shooting Federal or PMC brass cases ammo. I chalk it up to the cat pee infused powder than Wolf uses Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I struggled with the Strelok app for several months before I finally got the hang of it. The best part of that app (for me at least) has been the MPBR formula. I used that function to to figure out the maximum point blank range for XM193 ammo and used that data to zero my Tavor and AR. The Tavor has a Vortex Strikefire in a ADM mount. The formula had me zero both guns at about 1.5" high at 100 yards and this gets me point-and-shoot at 200 yards using a 6-inch target (or whatetver the exact yardage is at the base of the berm at Range 14).

The .40 is new for this year. I picked up one in .45 earlier this year and found out about the .40 by accident when I started searching for carbine options in the caliber. https://kriss-usa.com/press-release/408-kriss-vector-gen-ii-2017-now-available-in-40sw

I think that I found myself a new project Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks great - I hadn't thought about the "build" route. How is the reliability in terms of feeding? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm tossing around the idea of picking up a .40 S&W carbine since I already have a pistol in the caliber and have the ammo. I took a look at the available options in this caliber and the KRISS seems to be the one that stands out over the others. Does anyone have any experience with the .40 S&W KRISS or have any other suggestions for me to look at? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got my replacement shroud in the mail today, so it looks like I'll be able to head to the range this weekend and try out some of the other .223 factory loads in the RPR. I can't really complain - it only took 11 days to receive the part from Ruger Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like it has finally arrived... http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2017/08/19/desert-tech-mdr-hits-shelves/