El_Mal90

Okay dumb question time, just confused myself reading between the bill and the guidelines. I have a bolt action .22 that has a fixed tube mag that holds 17 rounds. Should still be good since the bill indicates it's for semiautomatic, right? Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Well, I would rather render them inoperable than forfeit them. Guess I will wait to see what tomorrow brings. Anyone have any idea what to do with them after they are inoperable (piece them up and toss, keep pieces in a box, etc.) Personally, I like the idea of a paperweight in the shop! Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Well, sorry the wording was weird, just didn't quite know how to word it. Thanks for all of the great information. I just thought it was strange because this is NJ and everything is pretty strict, mostly because of the background check. I was looking for information from people with more experience than me. Also, I'm more of a reader than poster. Sorry for pissing everyone off.

I just wanted to check my logic on the sale of a rifle to an in state resident, as it is my first time selling. I read evrything I could find on the State Police's website, and I came up with the following: Verify FID and Photo ID information and filling out a certificate of eligibility (make a copy for the buyer and I keep the original). Just seems weird to me that nothing has to be sent in to the State Police. Also, I apologize if this has been discussed elsewhere, I did a search and couldn't really find anything.Thank you in advance for any help/information that can be provided.

I just wanted to check my logic on the sale of a rifle to an in state resident, as it is my first time selling. I read evrything I could find on the State Police's website, and I came up with the following: Verify FID and Photo ID information and filling out a certificate of eligibility (make a copy for the buyer and I keep the original). Just seems weird to me that nothing has to be sent in to the State Police. Also, I apologize if this has been discussed elsewhere, I did a search and couldn't really find anything.Thank you in advance for any help/information that can be provided.

The first AR I bought was used with original barrel. For the 2 I've built, I followed the barrel manufacturer's specifications which was 5 rounds (copper jacketed), full cleab, and repeat to a total of 60 rounds.

Yeah, the springs are either looser or stiffer depending on the the location of the gas port and the resulting pressures. So a carbine spring would be stiffer than a rifle because the carbine gas port is closer to the action which causes a higher pressure. As High Exposure mentioned there could be reliability issues, but the setup will almost always run.

Saw a video of this earlier today and was wondering the same thing. It's incredible what it can do

I have the full length wood loaded model, and I love it. Recoil isn't that bad at all. I got mine for a decent price, and shoot it all the time. But to each his own. If you're looking for something compact in .308 I'd do what Vlad said and look at an AR or FAL

I agree with this. Personally I would have a stripped upper shipped to my house, but anything needing compliance work (i.e.threaded barrel and brake, completed upper that needs compliance work, etc) shipped to the person doing the work.

For the build I just finished, I used an Aero upper and lower combo. Bought and shipped for $155 (was on sale). Haven't had any issues, and they mated perfectly.

I just recent bought my first striker fired. I was between the FNS 9, PPQ and P320. After holding, taking apart, and shooting all three I chose the P320, and I love it. But yeah, as far as ambi controls, go VP9 or PPQ

I personally think it's a bit too pricey for a first AR that needs compliance work, but in the end, it's your decision. I went with an M&P 15 for under $600 for my first, and I love it. ARs are simple when it comes to customizing, and Magpul accessories are fairly cheap. So I would personally go that route.

I read that same article previously, and I will only be doing supers out of the rifle (don't really see the point in doing subs in NJ if I can't get a suppressor). So that's how I came to the 100 yard zero. But yeah the both supers and subs drop significantly more than a 5.56 after 100 yards, especially the subs. They drop like rocks past that.

Everything went off without a hitch. Put about 200 rounds through it and zeroed the irons at 50. I'm going to get them zeroed to 100 once it's broken in a little more. Rifle shot great. After I tuned the gas block, I was getting a pile of cases about 5' away at about 3:30. Recoil was definitely less than my 5.56 M&P15, and was reduced further when I switched from a standard carbine buffer to an ST-T2. No signs of gas block movement or missing alignment. As far as the stock goes, the connection is supposed to butt up against the castle nut, and the screw provides tension on the buffer to keep it from moving. So by just moving it back and putting the screw back, it will just move forward when I push against it and shoot (unless I just drill a hole and pin it. But overall, I sort of like where it is. The additional 1/2" would definitely make it better.