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AVB-AMG

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AVB-AMG last won the day on February 14

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About AVB-AMG

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    NJGF Regular
  • Birthday April 1

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Summit, NJ
  • Interests
    Special Interest Automobiles; Golf; Wine; Travel
  • Home Range
    Ranges: Cherry Ridge; RTSP/Randolph, NJ & Lehigh Valley Sporting Clays - Coplay, PA

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  1. @Handyman: Well, the majority of French people are not morons, but I do agree that the French certainly know how to produce wonderful wine. Tonight, my wife and I went out to a local restaurant and selected a very nice French Red Burgundy wine, (Pinot Noir), to accompany our dinner entrees. It was much more tanic than the CA or Washington State Pinot Noir's which usually taste rather "jammy" to me, nice but different. Also, due to the strength of the U.S. dollar compared to the Euro, European wines, French in particular, are much more reasonably priced and a good value right now. Why don't you go to your local wine store and purchase a bottle of French wine that they recommend, for $20 or less, to go with your Swanson's frozen TV dinner for your evening meal one night. I think you will find it quite enjoyable..... AVB-AMG
  2. As part of my self-interest and desire to learn more via continuing education regarding the arcane and confusing, (if not un-Constitutional), NJ gun laws, I have attended several conferences and presentations where Evan Nappen gave his interpretation of those constantly changing gun laws. I have also enrolled and subscribed to the US Law Shield program, for added insurance and peace-of-mind, for the potential pitfalls of gun ownership. I am not an attorney and realize that most of what Nappen advocates usually errors on the conservative side of caution, which I understand and accept. He is not always correct, (who is...?), but I respect his opinion and cautious approach to. NJ's gun laws. While it is a PITA, why take unnecessary chances when traveling with firearms, whether in NJ or other states. Until the SCOTUS makes more definitive rulings, I want to be prudent with my choices in how I plan to consciously comply with the current laws of NJ, as well as the other states I travel to. FYI, when I have gone on multiple state road trips with any of my firearms, I am knowledgeable of and have consciously abided by the current FOPA laws governing interstate transportation of firearms. Having obtained non-resident CCW permits for handguns from several states that allow me to CCW in approx. 32 states, I have on occasion, chosen to do so, where I was able to legally do so. I subscribed to a “belt and suspenders” approach when transporting my selected handgun and ammunition, through those states. For those trips, I made what I thought was a combined reasonable and practical decision to fully load the multiple magazines with hollow point bullets, as my self-defense ammo. If I was in a state where I was not legally allowed to wear my holstered handgun while driving or was not allowed to CCW at all, I would do the following. I would store the handgun and loaded magazines in separate 5.11 ballistic nylon zippered pouches that were each secured with small, TSA-approved combination locks. I then placed both separate locked pouches, along with my holster, inside a locked hard sided, (aluminum) attaché case, that in turn had two combination locks. I would then locate and store that locked hard sided case in the far back of my SUV. Finally, I would pull closed, the horizontal vinyl cover/shade, so that nothing stored in that cargo area would be visible to anyone inside or outside the vehicle, nor accessible to anyone within the vehicle while actively driving. Some folks would consider all of this as taking things overboard or being overly cautious. Well it is a PITA, but doing this and taking all of these precautions, gave me and gives me, peace-of-mind as I navigate through the mine field of different and conflicting legal jurisdictions of different states. AVB-AMG
  3. Like many of you I am shocked and saddened this evening by the news and images of the disastrous fire that has engulfed the famous Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris. It is a devastating loss, (hopefully just a bad wound....), not just to Parisians, and not just to Catholics, but to all Christians around the world who appreciate the enduring symbolism of these magnificent Cathedrals, that are cultural treasures, that have survived revolutions and world wars over many centuries. Also mourning is anyone who appreciates French Gothic Architecture and the incredible effort it took to design and build Notre-Dame almost 900 years ago, as well as renovate it in the 19th Century. As you can see from @PeteF's amazing photos of the heavy wood timber structure that supported the main roof of the Cathedral over the nave and transept and the central spire's structure, it would make sense that once a fire begins and its rapidly rising heat is trapped inside under the roof, that a super heated ignition point could be reached very quickly. Usually, heavy timber burns very slowly, but due to its old age and presumed extreme dryness, it probably ignited and burned much more quickly. Since there was a renovation project underway at the Cathedral's roof, all enclosed with scaffolding, I will venture a wild guess that the fire started from some most unfortunate construction related accident. We will know in coming days the real extent of the damage to the rest of the Cathedral, but I can imagine that there will be extensive damage due to a combination of variables of heat and smoke from the fire, in addition to the water pumped onto the roof to douse the fire, soaking many other areas. I believe that the French will undoubtedly commit to rebuilding the destroyed parts of the Cathedral. They really must, since it is such an important national architectural icon, transcending its original religious purpose and beloved by the French for its iconic symbolism, along with the Eiffel Tower and Arc de Triomphe. Since it is France, I would not be surprised that once the cathedral is ultimately restored and rebuilt using taxpayer money, that there may be calls for it to no longer serve as a Catholic church and that it should become a more ecumenical or non-denominational religious building open to all religions.....or even be turned into a museum, like the Turks did with Hagia Sophia in Istanbul. Who knows....? BTW, the company I have been associated with did the 2014-2015 renovation of St. Patrick's Cathedral in New York City and as part of that renovation, working closely with the FDNY, the project team and all trade contractors working inside and outside the Cathedral adhered to very strict fire prevention precautions. As part of the renovation a sprinkler system was installed in certain parts of the structure and building code required fire-resistant materials were installed wherever possible, including the roof. Here is a link to more information on that project: https://saintpatrickscathedral.org/restore-st-patricks-cathedral AVB-AMG
  4. @deerpark For your peace of mind, it could not hurt for you to have a consultation with an Attorney versed in liability issues, about what, if any exposure you may have. While you may not at first, appear to be legally at fault, your "friend" could possibly come after you if you have liability insurance, as one approach to pay for repairing the damage, which could start to snowball. (see below). In today's litigious society, anything is possible. BTW, I would advise your friend to do the following: Call his insurance agent, then an approved plumber with this type of experience and then an attorney. For proof of the event and resulting damage, I would suggest that he take as many photographs of the flooded basement now, before his plumber starts to pump out the water. Also, take photos during that process and of all the water damaged items before he startsto move them. He should ask his insurance agent what else they may need from him. Finally, he should not be too quick to accept the Insurance Company's check for repair work and replacement of damaged goods. He needs to make sure as much as possible that he has accounted for ALL repair and replacement costs for the damaged plumbing pipes and electrical wiring, wall and insulation materials, as well as ALL items adversely affected by the flooding. One of the biggest issues that arise post flooded homes is the growth of mold. If it is not addressed then the entire house could be affected, causing respiratory health issues for him and his family. BTW, I am NOT an attorney and am not giving any professional advice, just some thoughtful suggestions and ideas to ponder.... Good luck. AVB-AMG
  5. God help us.....! Smart man.... This is a gun forum, for goodness sake....! AVB-AMG
  6. @Zeke: Are you really sure about that....??? I seem to recall @Mrs. Peel having some rather strong reactions to the Pork Rollers..... AVB-AMG
  7. @Sniper: Well you are the self-proclaimed expert on all of this..... I hope you are satisfied with yourself, always wanting to have the last word on any topic. It is quite obvious to me and others that you stubbornly refuse to learn anything from what others bring up and suggest, since you know it all. What you fail to understand and accept is that any licensed Architect or Structural Engineer, when designing the structure for any building, has to take in multiple variable factors to determine the worse case scenario. That includes a conservative safety factor. You may think that is over-design but that is part of the reason we have building codes and we have to be licensed, to ensure the life safety aspects of a building. I think the O.P. has heard and observed enough of your diatribes, as well as my suggestions, to be able to figure out what he should do now. From what I can gather, I believe that a key difference between you and me is that while I am also self-confident and think I know quite a bit, I also have humility and understand that there is much more that I do not know and can learn. I want to learn.... Apparently, you do not. Also, you seem intent on just cutting and pasting things you find on the internet to supposedly prove your point, without taking other variables into account. If structural design were that easy then nobody would need an Architect or Structural Engineer to design a building. Suit yourself and do it your way..... I certainly would not want to occupy, let alone live or work in any building or structure that you were involved with the planning, design and/or construction, since I would not feel reliably safe, nor would anyone else. Your constant attitude that you know it all, that you are right and everyone else is wrong, is not just irritating, but makes me realize just how insecure you must be, for whatever reason. I do feel sorry for you. Your linear thinking, stubborn repetition of incorrect assertions, combined with your refusal to acknowledge anyone's ideas or suggestions as having any validity or merit is why I cannot and do not take you seriously and do not respect you. AVB-AMG
  8. @Handyman: FYI - it is my professional opinion that your solution to your sagging ceiling is a viable solution.... Good job! Let me guess..... originally, you also probably only planned to store your Christmas ornaments up in your attic.... right? AVB-AMG
  9. @Sniper: Let me try to explain this clearly to you. The design solution of the O.P.’s issue cannot be considered in a vacuum, which you seem to be doing. The original horizontal 2x6 ceiling joists are 20 ft. 6 in. long and were adequate to serve their original purpose of connecting to and forming bracing of the roof rafters, to address roof dead load as well as the possible live loads, including snow, ice and wind. Now, the O.P. wants to use some of the space in the attic for storage space. So the existing horizontal 2x6 joists need to be augmented to provide additional stiffness and load bearing capacity. You left out an important result of using that American Wood Council calculator, which is the following information of the 2x6 joist: The Maximum Horizontal Span is: 10 ft. 0 in. with a minimum bearing length of 0.53 in. required at each end of the member. Property Value Species Spruce-Pine-Fir (South) Grade Select Structural Size 2x6 Modulus of Elasticity (E) 1300000 psi Bending Strength (Fb) 1943.5 psi Bearing Strength (Fcp) 335 psi Shear Strength (Fv) 135 psi So according to this online calculator, the actual clear span of the O.P's existing 2x6 ceiling joists are just over (exceeding), their recommended span, which should be of concern. Also, this online calculator does not address wind load or seismic load that needs to also be taken into consideration. As a licensed Architect, I also read and realize the limitation of these rather simplistic calculators and highlight their disclaimer below: "While every effort has been made to insure the accuracy of the information presented, and special effort has been made to assure that the information reflects the state-of-the-art, neither the American Wood Council nor its members assume any responsibility for any particular design using this Online Span Calculator assume all liability from its use" prepared from this Online Span Calculator. Those Keep in mind that different building codes vary in what they require for various types of spaces. Basically, a design load is a combination of both dead load and live load. Design loads will be significantly less than the load that will cause the 2x6 wood joists to bend, deflect or ultimately crack and fail. The O.P. has expressed that he does not want his bedroom ceiling below to bend and he would also like to consider the option to use additional insulation between those joists to gain a higher R-Value. U.S. building codes specify a uniform live load of 40 pounds per square foot (psf) for most residential floor designs. This load is intended to account for the large number of loads that can occur in a residence. In reality, these loads do not typically take the form of uniform loads. They generally consist of furniture, appliances and a myriad of other furnishings that actually induce individual point loads. According to the International Building Code for residential construction (2009), they indicate that design live loads will vary based on a number of factors, but at a minimum, 10 psf live load for attics without storage, 20 psf live load with limited storage, and 30 psf for habitable attics or attics for significant storage, served with fixed stairs. I am more conservative and when I take into consideration the other original purpose of those 2x6 joists and bracking, I would design the augmented/sistered 2x6 joists to accommodate a 40 psf live load and specify a minimum of ½ inch thick plywood, preferably 5/8 inch for added diaphragm stiffness. As I said before, who knows what a future homeowner of that house will decide to store up in that attic and I would want to error on the side of caution to allow for a much heavier live load in that scenario. I would also ensure that high quality wood products and screw fasteners are used and that the installation is properly framed, set, blocked, anchored and braced to ensure the the result has all of the necessary strength and rigidity, not just for the added live load but also to address the possible lateral loads that may be imposed on it. Some people, (you), might consider this over design, but I do not. The cost is not that much more and the peace of mind one will have, is worth it in my opinion. AVB-AMG
  10. @Sniper: I admit and agree that the most common form of sistering any floor joist is to use the same sized member and attaching it to the existing joist without an offset. In addition to providing added stiffness and load supporting capacity, the suggested option of the 2" offset allows for the installation of additional deeper insulation material, something that the O.P. was contemplating. I never said that the offset sistered joists is the only way to accomplish his goal, but just one idea. I have seen this method used on one residential renovation project a number of years ago that one of my associates was working on. Its configuration was calculated and verified by the project's Structural Engineer and used successfully. Unfortunately, I do not have any photos of that framing before it was enclosed. As far as your assertion that I believe that I "am smarter and far superior than everyone here", you are welcome to your feelings and opinion. I will disagree with that, but it does not really matter what I think. Unlike you, I know what I know and also know what I don’t know and do not pretend to be knowledgeable, let alone an expert on everything, like you come across doing in so many of your posts. You apparently have a bug up your ass regarding professional Architects and Structural Engineers, which is your problem, not mine. My original criticism of your posts in this thread remain valid. If your claimed construction experience is true, it unfortunately does not seem to have taught you about how structural loads are transferred to bearing walls in either balloon or platform wood residential construction. Keep in mind, we do not know what the age is or construction type is of the O.P.'s house. I agree that multiple actual experiences of taking a project all the way through the programming, design, documentation, bidding and construction phases is the best way to learn the practical realities of materials and how they are joined together. IMHO, it probably takes 10-15+ years of this sort of experience before one feels truly comfortable with what they have learned, both in a formal academic classroom AND from real life experience, working with experienced tradesmen on site. I consider that entire process to be a collaborative one with a team, not just of the design professionals, but with the G.C., trade contractors, consultants, suppliers and fabricators. I have no problem listening to suggestions of alternative approaches and/or beneficial substitutions, if they will result in a better project outcome, preferably saving the Owner time and/or money. I have offered one approach here for the O.P. to consider and have never said it is the only solution to meet his goal. More importantly, I have also strongly suggested that he consult with a local registered Architect or Structural Engineer who are actively involved in and experienced with structural wood construction in residential renovations, to come to his home and examine what exactly the existing conditions are and determine what the various feasible options are for him to consider. IMHO, that is the most responsible approach to take. AVB-AMG
  11. @Handyman: Ok Mr. Expediter Erector, what is the thickness of your attic flooring and what is the depth of its floor joists....? AVB-AMG
  12. @Zeke: I have to admit that you have a wonderful way with words...... @Ray Ray: Granted, you certainly know your firearms, but on this topic you are on thin ice (plywood?)..... Just because you have been lucky enough to not have punctured your foot through a 1/4 inch thick plywood floor in an attic, does not mean that is what one should use when designing and constructing a new storage space in one's house. Who knows, maybe the O.P. collects antique lead toy soldiers that weigh a "ton".... The point is, once that attic storage space is completed and available, from my experience with my wife, all sorts of things get stashed up in the attic, without much thought as to how much all of that accumulated stuff weighs. FYI – the American Plywood Association (APA), recommends using their rated sheathing for floors. Specifically, their APA Rated Sturd-I-Floor product. It is intended to be used as a single-layer flooring material or as a subfloor/underlayment for padding and carpeting. The panel surface has extra resistance to punch-through damage. It is available in the following thicknesses (measured in inches): 19/32, 3/8, 7/16, 15/32, ½, 19/32, and 5/8. That is the product I have specified on projects where there is a need for it. The Structural Engineers that I have dealt with when designing wood frame construction, have always specified a minimum of one half inch (1/2”) plywood to be used as a subfloor over floor joists that are set 16” on center, that would receive only a light covering of padding and w2w carpeting. It would be thicker if wood strip flooring, or a thin-set mortar bed with either ceramic tile, quarry tile or stone flooring would be installed on top of it. Also, the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends the use of a minimum 19/32” performance category wood structural panels (CDX plywood or OSB) as a subfloor material when the floor joists are spaced at 16 inches on center. As I said earlier, you are free to use whatever size (thickness) plywood as a subfloor in your home, but when it comes to someone else’s home, it is a very different matter for all the reasons I stated in earlier posts in this thread. Good luck in your future exploration of attics and take a tape measure with you and see if you can determine what the thickness is of the plywood used for their flooring….. AVB-AMG
  13. @siderman: That could also be another option, but would be a second choice. In order to determine if it is viable, one needs to know the size of the roof rafters, their span length and spacing. The reason it is a second choice is that the roof rafters are sized for the dead weight of the roofing materials, as well as wind loading and live loads, (i.e. snow and ice). One concern is that if the live load of the "stuff" stored in the new attic space is too great or concentrated then the roof rafters would deflect (bend) and possibly have their structural integrity compromised. All of that can be figured out mathematically, once you know the variables noted above. AVB-AMG
  14. @Sniper: While what you are saying seems to make sense, to a lay person, it is not really necessary from a structural perspective, but is sometimes done by some Carpenters in some cases for stability and does not hurt. I implied that approach in my earlier post, but realize now that I was not clear. The obvious solution is to insert a small piece of wood under the raised portion of the staggered new wood joist to serve as a so-called "bearing plate" for the new sistered wood joist sitting 2" horizontally on each of the bearing walls, but it is not necessary. Importantly, it is not necessary for the structural load transfer since the bearing portion of the original 2x6 is still sufficient to accommodate the added load of the attached new 2x6 and, more importantly, the live load of whatever will be stored in the new attic space. Adding wood blocking between the new "double joists" at the bearing points might be one way to provide additional rigidity, but again, not really necessary. Also, if the end of the new 2' raised wood joist needs to be chamfered cut at an angle at the top end to clear any sloped roof sheathing then that may be done without compromising the structural integrity of the sistered joist. If you were knowledgeable about the the structural integrity of wood construction you would understand that what you suggested, while does not hurt, is not necessary to accomplish the structural solution. But unfortunately, you do not..... Your opinion that this is an "unnecessary exercise" and that this approach is "overkill and a waste of time and effort" is your opinion, which you are certainly entitled to have and seem intent on expressing. But to continue to post your inaccurate and uneducated statements is not helpful to the O.P. Why you insist on continuing to do that in this thread is most unfortunate and just comes across as belligerent and disagreeable based on your animosity towards me. You do not have to like me and clearly do not, but don't use your personal hostility towards me to cause you to just act in a childish annoying and irritating manner. Maybe your real intention of your continued posts in this thread, with your persistent and tiresome naive assumptions of structural engineering, that are either misunderstood or just plain wrong, are also just to provoke a needless silly debate. Once again, I suggest that you stick to topics that you are more informed, educated and experienced with and not continue to do your "fly-by" ignorant assertions and incorrect statements. AVB-AMG
  15. @remixer: While most of our clients are private real estate developers or institutions, I can empathize with you and your father, having also worked on a number of publicly funded projects for the NYC School Construction Authority (SCA). The challenge on those projects was that the client (SCA) would establish the project contractual "rules" but would also reserve the right and authority to change them mid-project.... very frustrating. Also, the SCA would decide whether or not they wanted something to be designed and built, going way beyond what the NYC Building Code mandated, which added to the bottom line construction costs. Plus, the new schools we did were contracted to General Contractors using the lump sum bid process. Therefore, it was paramount that the estimators did not forget anything in the bids. Otherwise, the Change Order process was a real battle and the GC's profit, already paper thin, was at risk. Growing up, my family spent a number of years outside of Philadelphia, in Chester County. When I was in high school in the early 1970's, one of my best friend's father worked as an executive at Lukens Steel Company in Coatesville, PA, one of the oldest steel mills in the U.S. He eventually took the job of President of Phoenix Steel, a specialty steel fabricator. I remember taking a tour of one of their foundries in Ohio which was fascinating. Around the same time, we also toured the Bethlehem Steel Corp. plant in Bethlehem, PA, (when it was still in operation), to see how steel was made and then formed into structural steel members, which was a truly amazing experience to watch. AVB-AMG
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