Eric.

That is cool. As I mentioned, previously, you had to buy thei "AR style butt", add an AR buffer tube, then attach the PRS stock. Yours eliminated the need for the buffer tube. Nice.

I'm open to learning (honestly). I only FL size cases that get dented. Otherwise, I jsut neck size and check trim. Ive done this for a long time with no adverse affects (no feeding issues), but if this is not the way to go, i would like to know why.

I would agree with you assuming someone doesnt reload. If you reload and are using fireformed cases and only necksizing the case, you can't get a better fit, regardless of chamber configuration.

I have a STR stock on my SPR. I wanted something that fit well and looked similar to a Mod 1 (MK12). The storage is a bonus. The CTR/STR is a step up from the MOE due to having a friction lock. It's solid.

Hmm, that must be a newer option with McRee; it looks like they have a Magpul PRS stock on there? Cool. With the older stuff, you had to buy the "AR style butt/extension", then mount your own PRS on there.

While I can't offer any experience withRadical Arms, I'm of the opinion that if you are building an occasional range toy, then a moderately priced Radical upper with a free float rail might be perfect. I like their 16" SOCOM. 1-7 twist, m4 feedramps, mid gas, keymod free float rail. Not bad for $320. The mid gas should still work fine with your rifle buffer. On that note, if you decide to build, I would be happy to torque your barrel nut on for you. I have an armorors tool and upper mounting block. The rest of it you can do with hand tools.

Hey, just remembered something... Maek sure you skim bed the chassis or check the clearances. I used modeling clay. I know some say that you dont need to bed a chassis. I found that with my build, i had a large gap between the recoil lug and the chassis. I would say about a 1/16" gap. I wound up using some bedding material on the lug only.

Im foreseeing the kid's college fund taking a hit...

Not trying to be argumentative...at the end of the day, the benefits vs the bad is real close, so i dont think there is a "wrong" choice. I'm looking forward to seeing the final pic and range report!

I'm sure yours will shoot sub MOA. Just one question that has been in my head... why didnt you go with a 6.5 creedmoor instead? The ballistics and cartridge size, etc, are all almost identical, but the Creedmoor is a more widely used round. For that matter (even though you reload), there is some really good factory match ammo that is widely available too...

In case you want a peek of what your rifle will look like: http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/76178-65-creedmoor-build-just-done/ The only difference between yours and mine would be that you have the Vortex PST and I'm using a Vortex Razor. I went with a Harris bipod too. The one in the pic is the short one, typically, i go with the 9-13 swivel bipod.

sounds like life is good, Chris. I'm glad things are working out with Mike/Tier One. I tried them for a similar precision rifle build last year and recommend them to everybody that will listen. I'd love to see your finished build. Hell, it'll be almost identical to mine. I have a 6.5c, custom 700 short action in a fde McRee G7 folder. I'm using a Surefire socom brake (newer version) too. I'm running Vortex glass as well (gen I Razor).

I think many ppl would agree. Or, as the cool kids say... ^^^this

Kreiger: Your Order Summary with Krieger BarrelsPlease carefully review the dimensions and services listed below: If you would like to include options and services not listed here or have questions, please call our office at 262-628-8558.Summary of Order: Service Rifle Type: AR15 Caliber: 6.5MM Steel: Stainless Steel Contour Type: VARMATCH Overall Length: 24 IN Muzz. Diam.: 0.920 IN Twist Rate: 1-8 Inches Bore Dia: 0.256 Inches Groove Dia: 0.264 Inches Parts: Gas Block, Barrel Extension Edit Order Please review Prices & Qtys below: Item Price* Qty Ext. Price AR15, VARMATCH, 6.5MM $370.00 1 $370.00 Gas Block $0.00 1 $0.00 Barrel Extension $0.00 1 $0.00 Ship & Handle (Estim.): $20.00 1 $20.00 Total Charge: $390.00 1 $390.00 24" barrel Varmatch, .920 muzzle(bull), stainless, 1-8 twist, finished chamber and crown, incl gas block. (A low profile gas block typically runs around $40 bucks extra) Oh, the $390includes shipping too.

Fish, Try Shore Shot gun range. I seem to remember they used to stock Spikes uppers.

Nope. The Lilja and Kreigers are finished barrels. All you have to do is slap it on. Kreigers should be well under $400 for a 6.5G. Ill second the Geissele pick. I run a Hi Speed National DMR.

There are several good makers. For either 6.5G or 6.5C AR barrels, I;m kinda partial to Kreiger.

Sam, If you don't mind, let me make a couple of suggestions. I would suggest going with a cut rifled barrel, rather than poly. A 24" barrel will be enough for a 6.5C round to get to 1000yds. Actually, you should easily get to 1200 yds. You dont need more velocity since the 6.5c has a fairly high BC. As such, you get better accuracy from a cut rifled barrel. 24" to 26" is the sweet spot length for the 6.5c. Dont worry about the range finder, now. That is the last thing you need. Your priority should go liek this: 1. best barrel you can afford. 2. good trigger (I like a 2 stage trigger that has a pull weight adjustment) 3. best glass you can afford with a ranging reticle. I prefer Mil dots/hash but some like MOA. Either way, make sure the turrets match the reticle. There are scopes with Mil dot reticles paired with MOA turrets. It's retarded and you dont need the added math while trying to range a target. Also, go with a FFP (first focal plane) scope. Regarding ranging, that is an important skill you need to learn. You should be able to estimate distance of a known target size using your reticle. This is why the rangefinder is the last thing to buy. Learn and become proficient at this skill before relying on a rangefinder. Electronic devices can and do fail. Why do you want an AR/gas gun for precision rifle? A gas gun is rarely, if ever, as accurate as a bolt gun due to the design. The only clear benefit is hte rate of fire for a semi auto. If you have multiple targets to engage quickly or shoot moving targets, then there is an advantage but at the end of the day, you are trading accuracy for this. If you have your heart set on the large AR, sign up for Aero Precision's email list. They've been pushing their 308 AR stuff and offer daily discount deals. Aero makes some quality stuff for a reasonable price. As you probably know, the rifle you want is a 308 AR with a 6.5c barrel. Everything else is the same as the 308 (bolt, mags, et al). Lastly, with the 308 AR platform, keep in mind that there is no "mil spec". Parts from one manufacturer may not fit with another's. Many times, parts are not interchangeable. It's not the same as building a .223 AR. If you don't want to go this route, then perhaps the 6.5G is the way to go and you sacrifice a little distance vs the 6.5C. Eric

6.5G barely gets to 1000 with a 16" barrel. You want a bullet that stays supersonic. Transonic is when it starts to cross over to subsonic and all kinds of bad things happen (ballistically). Even if you are shooting paper/steel, you still need a round that is suitable. A fitted bolt just means that I had it mated to the barrel extension better and the headspace is checked. It's part of the process of eliminating the slop that is inherent with semi autos. Not a must do, but every bit counts in teh precision rifle game. *Edit- When you get it built, I can take you to Mifflin Range in PA. It's a great 1000 yd range but a bit of a ride from my cottage (in Somerset County).

Im into precision rifle shooting. I shoot AR's (223) and bolt guns (6.5c). There is a bit of a learning curve, shooting mid or long distance. It is part knowledge, part skill & art and part equipment. You need all three to have any success, otherwise, you won't enjoy it much. Shooting long range takes much more than jsut putting the crosshair on the target and squeezing a round off. There is a ton to cover, but I'll just stick to the equipemnt, since you asked. Getting to 1000yds with a gas gun is much more difficult than a bolt gun, even if they are the same caliber. Gas guns are not as easy to shoot accurately and the gun (by design) is not as accurate as a bolt gun. Ballistically, every round has it's limitations and you need one that is suitable for the intended distance. With AR frames you are better off with a larger caliber. My pick would be a 6.5 Creedmoor. It's a great long distance round and it fits into 308 AR magazines. It feeds well too due to the long, thin bullet ogive. Another thing to be aware of is the BC of the bullet. The ballistic coefficient tells you how well the round flies and how well it bucks the wind. Velocity isnt king, BC is. That brings me to another point- make sure your chosen round can get to 1000 yds before going transonic. Transonic speed is around 1125 ft per sec. Where the round goes transonic is where the limitation of your distance should be. You have to buy a good, match quality barrel. Do not skrimp here at all. For reference, my AR 15 is set up for precision rifle. It's a .223 and it's good to around 800-825 yds, using mag length 77gr Sierra bullets and my handloads (it helps to reload your own so you can use fire formed cases). I use a WOA 18" SPR stainless, 1-7 twist wylde chamber barrel, Geissele NM DMR trigger along with a fitted BCG. It also has a free float quad rail. There is a ton more to it, I just scratched the surface.

Amen. On a budget, you can wind up with a really sweet trigger.

Mikey, Im gonna sit this one out. The powders I would buy (Varget, Ramshot TAC Reloader 15 and h4350) are all out of stock. Thanks, Eric

Varget works well for 55gr loads too. I dont load 55gr, so I dont have a pet load recipe, but generally, starting at 25.5 gr of Varget and working up from there should work. I've heard H335 works well too, but haven't tried it. Reloader 15 is very close to Varget too. To me, RL15 seems a bit temperature sensitive where Varget has consistent velocities, Summer or Winter.

With XM193/ball ammo, i can see groups close to 1 MOA at 50 and 100 yds. On a good day. Shooting ball at 300yds? If there is a zero value wind, 1.5 MOA might be something to call home to mom about. Im not buying it either.

69 & 77gr 223 loads.