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      NJGF's Gun Range & Store Database   05/23/2017

      Excited about launching a new feature, our very own member- driven range and store database.  Read the announcement and watch the video here... www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86658-njgfs-gun-store-range-database/

TRM9999

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About TRM9999

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    Forum Dabbler

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Southern NJ
  • Interests
    Casual target shooting
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    SJPC

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  1. Went for it and got the Tandem Kross Trigger kit. Provides a flat trigger and a lighter pull. Do it yourself, with caution, if you dare. I shot it afterwards and it was a big change. New finger positions have to be re-learned. Plus I put the grip overlays on and learned new gripping techniques. Does it make me shoot better? After some very careful timed shots I did well. After a few quick ones, so so. Bench shooting easy. Stand up shooting needs some new learning too. So I have to relearn the gun and shooting it before I can say it makes me shoot better, which may indeed do that! I did like the flat trigger but definitely not the wobble! Black or Silver. I choose silver because the gun is, now I note the old trigger was black. You decide. A little worried about installing myself, but having the gun all open to see the inner workings and nice videos on YouTube I went for it. Never did anything like this before especially with a brand new gun. Learned a lot about how the guts worked and hope I didn't mess with things too much. ?? The kit references instructions on their site but these are the written PDF instructions with photos. Found a video on YouTube that really answered a lot of questions and made it doable for me and would have had trouble with just the written instructions and small photos. You Need both! They change the kit from what you may have seen. There's a new captive set screw that holds the trigger disconnect bar (I'm sure glad I got the newer kit). The steps including taking Most of the components apart to do this install which can be intimidating. The grips, mag drop spring, slide lock, safety, mag safety, hammer, etc., but it teaches you what and how that stuff works. It could also teach you that you maybe shouldn't have done this and let your gunsmith do it. Tricky things are hard to give enough info about without making instructions for a video too complex but there were important things that could have had more mention. When you remove the hammer, the connecting bar and pin can fall out and it will. Over and over again before you are done unless you remember this. Should know this ahead of time to avoid it because the bar is offset and you don't know which way to put it back together. I had to do it wrong first to do it right and I hope its right. The new tiny replacement trigger spring and pin can get lost real easy when installing it under tension (real easy) as its hard to get and keep it in place while holding the trigger in place to install its pin. The paper instructions mention using tape, but it doesn't show it. In my kit there is a set screw to hold the trigger bar in place inside the trigger. This was not in the video (and I didn't see the hole for it in the video) and the paper instructions look like it was updated with these instructions but without a needed photo so I figured it was an upgrade to the kit. But do you LockTite it? I don't know and will monitor it when cleaning. Its very small and can assume it must have been a needed update, so if you don't get this in your kit bring it back or call tandemkross. Getting the safety back on, engaging the sear, keeping the trigger bar in place, lowering the hammer (and bar) into place and then lining up to put in the pin took most of my time and sweat and all has to be held together to get the pin in. It was not at all ez. I worried about marring the sear and parts at the pin hole. And while doing this the pin falls out of the hammer bar. One of the things it promotes itself with is that the stock trigger has side to side play, hinting that the new one will not. Well guess what, it has at least the same wobble or more. The paper instructions only say, in case this is so, you can add or replace a shim, but no good info on that let alone another shim in the kit. They need to correct this to whatever solves the issue like give two different size shims or maybe don't mention trigger wobble cure. The video and paper instructions were a little unclear about how to get the mag release out from under the trigger bar. It doesn't come out easy and they say not to bend it but the way it comes out, means you have to put pressure on it. Didn't like that as it could bend and also scratch the frame and trigger bar. I left a scratch or two there. I think it would be better to take this out at a later step. Then you have to put it back in the same way later, which was a bit easier on you and the parts since you've gone through it. Maybe why they left theirs out.. Ok, you put all the parts back and put the slide back on and hope it works. I was never sure I had the sear set correctly but had to do all the rest of the install to find out. What ever you do, don't drop the hammer until all the parts and the trigger are installed. Now the trigger adjustment screws should be put in before installing the trigger and meant to be adjusted later. You have to play with the adjustments a bit. Too tight and it may not work (break, release, reset don't work) in the field. Resetting those tiny screws in the field is tricky and you can lose a part real fast. The top screw is easy to set as you don't need much turning with the too tiny Allen key. You have to leave some extra room in this adjustment. The trigger stop screw setting is easier, but troublesome to me, as the setting brings most of the tiny set screw out of the frame of the trigger. WTF. It needs to be longer. I wish I could screw it out further but it will just bend or fall out. Even when modestly set, not much of the set screw in the trigger frame and it wiggles. You can see it bend slightly as it touches the back of the trigger guard. Maybe they should just add a longer one into the kit so you have two. You don't want it sticking out in front, but if its screwed it so far it wobbles out the back, I question its function and life span. Just include another slightly longer one in the kit and I'd be happy. Now, they suggest lock tight blue. But the paradox is you don't want to put the locktight on the threads until you are sure where you need the setting to be. And I recommend you shoot the gun first to be sure it works with your settings! In the instructions, it says to use the lock tight, but not 'when' and doesn't show that part. Note the locktite sets in 10 minutes. You do the screw installs before you put the trigger in the frame because its easier, but later to use the lock tight? Not so easy at all to back these out in the confines of the trigger guard to install the locktight. I think I'm going to just use a needle to place careful drops on the set screw edges where it meets the trigger - after I'm happy with the adjustment and hope it holds and stops any 'walking.' PS. It has to be blue locktight because red will never let you adjust or remove it again. Now funny (as I understand this) but they show in the video the guy holding the locktight tube with a blue top, but he quickly covers the label with his thumb.. Because he is holding locktight glue in his hand and if you rewind, you'll see it. He picked up the wrong stuff from the shelve at the store. I almost did the same since I saw it in the video. But he must have accidentally bought the glue by mistake that happened to have blue on the container. Get the correct locktight blue "tube." Its $6.54 at home depot (don't pick up the cheaper glue by mistake if locktight is what you want). That's funny right there, I don't care who you are. These are notes and in no way am I doing more than stating my experience. I bought the do - it yourself kit and I did it. I believe I could but the old stuff back if I wished but I'm not planning that.
  2. I went for EZ and got the BX (Burger King) trigger for my 10/22. Certainly ez to install but you could drop another pin by accident so good to know which are which. It also solved a sticky bolt release which is tricky enough to get to anytime. So I go to the range this am for a heat and humidity treatment and to try the new triggers I installed in my 10/22 and SW V. I shot the SW Victory first then after a bit the 10/22 rifle. I picked it up safely and readied, and pushed the safety in, then lowered my finger onto the trigger and BOOM! Wow, that was quick and light. That's nice is all I can say. Did it make me shoot any better. Only time will tell. So many other factors like my scope creeping off the base, which is enough to blow your mind while in between shots.
  3. Hegberts is an excellent buyer. New what he wanted and was prepared for the deal. Was prompt, communited fully, followed through and hope he enjoys our deal. I would do business with him again. Thank you!

    1. hegberts

      hegberts

      Was a pleasure dealing with Tom 

  4. I did end up selling my 44 here on the forum. Thanks for all the info about this and I hope I offered a great deal. Hegberts is a good buyer. Thank you!
  5. The bolt (oops, I meant the mag) release mechanism does seem to have a bit of a problem (other than the usual getting used to) so many the replacement could be the easiest, but the custom workers recommended could probably clear that us as well. Going to do it, so much thanks to all.
  6. I saw this BK replacement assembly for the Ruger 10/22 at Cabela's and online for $56 +. Just pull out 2 pins and the old assemble and slide in the new assembly to get the trigger pull down to 3lbs. But does it make and difference for the causal shooter?
  7. I saw a video regarding the 10/22 and it said to keep this area dry and that it doesn't need lubrication. It just grabs the blowback. I can see it because I wouldn't take this area apart for every cleaning. ? I wonder how this applies on the same area for an AR or SW22 V?
  8. I've bought several bricks during the shortage. The ones in the first brick are dirty right in the box, like the coating tarnished. I'll wipe down a 100 at a time when I go to the range. The other bricks from that same time frame look fine. When I go, I'll shoot hundreds so the gun needs cleaning anyway. But you have to wipe the bolt face often if you don't want too many jams.
  9. Local prices for 100 CCI 22LR are $10.99. So I took a trip to the Christiana Cabela's for 10 CCI boxes at $8.99. Its an excuse but the $20 savings paid for the trip and it was fun.
  10. I was wondering if they shipped to NJ.
  11. I still don't see these back in stock in stores as yet. I was at the Christiana Cabela's yesterday and been checking locally. Glad I got the last SW 22 Victory my local shop had because those seem to be selling off instead.
  12. I have the basic model. Hard to get perfect. The slide feels like its floppying around and not expensively machined, and one I had 25 years ago seemed tighter. I would like a nice stainless model but I don't know if the slide itself or the action is any better. One alternate I added is the Henry Lever action base model for $100 more. Fun and accurate enough. I could be a bit more accurate because of the bolt or length. I don't know. But since they I have learned about the drastic ammo differences.
  13. I did become a paid member and posted the 44 629 in the sales section as a 'special deal.' Hope that's ok to say that here. Thanks all for the advice. Someone's going to luck out.
  14. A person already has their NJ FID card and waiting for a pistol permit and buys a rifle correctly through a store with the NIC check. Would that interfere as a double NIC check w/in 30days if the pistol permit comes in shortly after and they are ready to purchase? Just wondering if anyone ever had a issue..
  15. Yet another update is I found on my gun it has a metal spring rod as opposed to a polymer rod shown in 22plinksters first review. I'm also told the takedown screw is improved and bigger and mine had a little red locktite on the threads to keep it snug and in place.