Went for it and got the Tandem Kross Trigger kit. Provides a flat trigger and a lighter pull. Do it yourself, with caution, if you dare.
I shot it afterwards and it was a big change. New finger positions have to be re-learned. Plus I put the grip overlays on and learned new gripping techniques.
Does it make me shoot better? After some very careful timed shots I did well. After a few quick ones, so so. Bench shooting easy. Stand up shooting needs some new learning too.
So I have to relearn the gun and shooting it before I can say it makes me shoot better, which may indeed do that!
I did like the flat trigger but definitely not the wobble! Black or Silver. I choose silver because the gun is, now I note the old trigger was black. You decide.
A little worried about installing myself, but having the gun all open to see the inner workings and nice videos on YouTube I went for it. Never did anything like this before
especially with a brand new gun. Learned a lot about how the guts worked and hope I didn't mess with things too much. ??
The kit references instructions on their site but these are the written PDF instructions with photos. Found a video on YouTube that really answered a lot of questions and made it doable for me and would have had trouble with just the written instructions and small photos. You Need both!
They change the kit from what you may have seen. There's a new captive set screw that holds the trigger disconnect bar (I'm sure glad I got the newer kit).
The steps including taking Most of the components apart to do this install which can be intimidating. The grips, mag drop spring, slide lock, safety, mag safety, hammer, etc., but it teaches you what and how that stuff works. It could also teach you that you maybe shouldn't have done this and let your gunsmith do it.
Tricky things are hard to give enough info about without making instructions for a video too complex but there were important things that could have had more mention.
When you remove the hammer, the connecting bar and pin can fall out and it will. Over and over again before you are done unless you remember this. Should know this ahead of time to avoid it because the bar is offset and you don't know which way to put it back together. I had to do it wrong first to do it right and I hope its right.
The new tiny replacement trigger spring and pin can get lost real easy when installing it under tension (real easy) as its hard to get and keep it in place while holding the trigger in place to install its pin. The paper instructions mention using tape, but it doesn't show it. In my kit there is a set screw to hold the trigger bar in place inside the trigger. This was not in the video (and I didn't see the hole for it in the video) and the paper instructions look like it was updated with these instructions but without a needed photo so I figured it was an upgrade to the kit. But do you LockTite it? I don't know and will monitor it when cleaning. Its very small and can assume it must have been a needed update, so if you don't get this in your kit bring it back or call tandemkross.
Getting the safety back on, engaging the sear, keeping the trigger bar in place, lowering the hammer (and bar) into place and then lining up to put in the pin took most of my time and sweat and all has to be held together to get the pin in. It was not at all ez. I worried about marring the sear and parts at the pin hole. And while doing this the pin falls out of the hammer bar.
One of the things it promotes itself with is that the stock trigger has side to side play, hinting that the new one will not. Well guess what, it has at least the same wobble or more. The paper instructions only say, in case this is so, you can add or replace a shim, but no good info on that let alone another shim in the kit. They need to correct this to whatever solves the issue like give two different size shims or maybe don't mention trigger wobble cure.
The video and paper instructions were a little unclear about how to get the mag release out from under the trigger bar. It doesn't come out easy and they say not to bend it but the way it comes out, means you have to put pressure on it. Didn't like that as it could bend and also scratch the frame and trigger bar. I left a scratch or two there. I think it would be better to take this out at a later step. Then you have to put it back in the same way later, which was a bit easier on you and the parts since you've gone through it. Maybe why they left theirs out..
Ok, you put all the parts back and put the slide back on and hope it works. I was never sure I had the sear set correctly but had to do all the rest of the install to find out. What ever you do, don't drop the hammer until all the parts and the trigger are installed.
Now the trigger adjustment screws should be put in before installing the trigger and meant to be adjusted later. You have to play with the adjustments a bit. Too tight and it may not work (break, release, reset don't work) in the field. Resetting those tiny screws in the field is tricky and you can lose a part real fast. The top screw is easy to set as you don't need much turning with the too tiny Allen key. You have to leave some extra room in this adjustment. The trigger stop screw setting is easier, but troublesome to me, as the setting brings most of the tiny set screw out of the frame of the trigger. WTF. It needs to be longer. I wish I could screw it out further but it will just bend or fall out. Even when modestly set, not much of the set screw in the trigger frame and it wiggles. You can see it bend slightly as it touches the back of the trigger guard. Maybe they should just add a longer one into the kit so you have two. You don't want it sticking out in front, but if its screwed it so far it wobbles out the back, I question its function and life span. Just include another slightly longer one in the kit and I'd be happy.
Now, they suggest lock tight blue. But the paradox is you don't want to put the locktight on the threads until you are sure where you need the setting to be. And I recommend you shoot the gun first to be sure it works with your settings! In the instructions, it says to use the lock tight, but not 'when' and doesn't show that part. Note the locktite sets in 10 minutes. You do the screw installs before you put the trigger in the frame because its easier, but later to use the lock tight? Not so easy at all to back these out in the confines of the trigger guard to install the locktight. I think I'm going to just use a needle to place careful drops on the set screw edges where it meets the trigger - after I'm happy with the adjustment and hope it holds and stops any 'walking.'
PS. It has to be blue locktight because red will never let you adjust or remove it again.
Now funny (as I understand this) but they show in the video the guy holding the locktight tube with a blue top, but he quickly covers the label with his thumb.. Because he is holding locktight glue in his hand and if you rewind, you'll see it. He picked up the wrong stuff from the shelve at the store. I almost did the same since I saw it in the video. But he must have accidentally bought the glue by mistake that happened to have blue on the container. Get the correct locktight blue "tube." Its $6.54 at home depot (don't pick up the cheaper glue by mistake if locktight is what you want).
That's funny right there, I don't care who you are.
These are notes and in no way am I doing more than stating my experience. I bought the do - it yourself kit and I did it. I believe I could but the old stuff back if I wished but I'm not planning that.