lunker

No one would accuse me of being "slim of build", but i think a good holster makes the difference. I have a Milt Sparks that my HK P7 rides in IWB at 8 o'clock (lefty

I have owned CZ's before and truly like them (CZ85 Combat, P01). I never did warm up to their polymer guns. Some combination of their ergonomics and the trigger. Basically I did not shoot them anywhere near as well as I did their metal framed, hammer fired guns. I also owned a FNH 45USG. I am not a trigger snob by any means (hell, I usually like stock Glock triggers), but I hated the trigger on that gun. Lots of gritty creep, super heavy double action trigger pull. It was ultimately my stubby fingers that got me to sell it. The grip beat large frame Glocks for "brick-ness". I have heard good things about the FNS guns, but basically I chose it because it was the only one left on your list.

Oops. That's what i get for only looking at last few posts. Enjoy your smooth shooting revoler!

I think a laser is a better option once you have mastered shooting a firearm. Without that mastery, it can turn into a crutch. My recommendation to you would be to buy a pack of A-Zoom snap caps (they are metal and last a long time). Then proceed to dry fire the hell out of the thing. That alone will help with the muscle memory part and build up finger strength (muscle fatigue can be a part of inconsistency). The second thing to do it to balance a dime on top of the barrel near the front sight. Practice single action trigger pulls and try to be steady enough that the dime doesn't fall. When you have them down good, move on to double action trigger pulls. When you can perform double action trigger pulls on your revolver and have the dime not fall off, you know that you are steady.

I have to agree.

That was the only thing I knew for sure when I started this thread. No need for QD!

Thanks Frank. I did actually attempt this just to get a feel for how much more lift I would want and front-to-back positioning. With my current rings, the objective just barely clears the handrail. I was thinking about how high the rings would need to be to get the correct height. I would think at some point, as you increase the ring height you are also increasing the flex and wobble (i.e. decreasing the force needed to apply a given amount of torque).

Vlad, which version did you get? My scope has a 4" eye relief an I am almost a "nose to charging handle" shooter. Is there an advantage to using the extended or SPR version with the forward bias, when you could simply move the mount up further forward instead? Is it to avoid having the mount bridge the receiver/rail gap for long scopes?

Thanks Vlad. The EGW rings I have are leftovers from a bolt gun where I was using a 20 MOA rail. They aren't tall enough on their own, but I can see how stacking up screwed together objects might not lend itself to good repeatability.

I had posted this question as a PM to a member here, but figured I would post it to the forum and see what people had for suggestions. I put together a precision AR fairly cheaply and am now at the point where I am trying to figure out optics mounting options. I already have EGW heavy duty 30mm scope rings. But I need a scope mount/riser. I don't want to break the bank, but would like a decent mount for it. I am even open to not using my EGW rings, and getting a one piece mount (integrated rings and mount) if that is the better solution. Any thoughts? By the way, the scope is a SWFA SS 10x42.

Thanks for the education Bob. I made the incorrect assumption that the hammer block came about with the hammer block. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your gun has a firing pin attached to the hammer. Newer guns have a more complex arrangement where the firing pin is actually inside the gun and there is a mechanical device that prevents it from being activated by the hammer unless the trigger is being pulled. It is effectively a drop safety.

Tony is the best! NJ gun owners couldn't ask for a better guy to run a local range.

I agree. Something to consider though. If you still have the gun, for around $100 you can turn it into a really nice shooter by changing the trigger configuration.

LEM or DA/SA? I never liked the DA/SA HK. I had a P2000 in it. Regular LEM was OK but looooong. V1 light LEM is nice. I am a fan.

Not sure Of the point. Freedom Group owns a bunch of firearms companies, but that doesn't make a Marlin rifle the same thing as a Remington. Nor is a Volkswagen the same thing as an Audi.

Like in many things, the answer is always "What is your budget?". If you are going to be shooting a few weekends a year, the I am sure the Stoeger is a good economical choice. If, on the other hand, you will be putting thousands of rounds a year through your shotgun, then Stoeger is not your best choice. I am sure fanboys will come out of the woodwork saying how theirs have been flawless, but... There is a reason the B-guns (Beretta and Browning, and Benelli to a much lesser extent) rule the game. They are built to be able to put tens of thousands of rounds a year and keep rolling. A Stoeger is much more likely to choke before any of the other guns will. One good thing about shotguns is that there are often good deals on used ones, and most of them have tons of life left in them. Take a look at the Beretta 300 series autoloaders. If you want a classic break open gun, then the Beretta Silver Pigeon is under 2K new and is a lot of shotgun for that cost. Used they can be found in the $1000-1200 range. I am less familiar with the Browning Citori options, but there are a ton. Make sure to shoulder both. They feel very different and people are usually partial to one or the other. I always liked the slimmer feel of the Beretta.

I was just at the local gun shop today and asked to check out the VP9 yet again. The grip is really close to the P30, which I like. I feel like the asymmetrical slide release controls are too far recessed for me to easily activate. I could really use a bigger ledge on them, at least on the right hand side (I am a lefty). The P30 has a very generous ledge on its symmetrical slide release levers, and that makes it easy to activate. I know some folks don't like how long they are because they accidentally hit it with a high thumbs grip. It doesn't bother me though. For me, the VP9's marginally better trigger over the P30 Light LEM doesn't make this gun a "must have". If I didn't own either, I would still choose the P30 (especially with the $200 rebate).

Damn, you beat me to it.

Are you a steel gun guy, or do you prefer other striker guns? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup. I used the rebate to buy a P30 V1 (light LEM). I really like it and am getting better with it. I live up in Sig Country (1 mile from corporate headquarters, 5 miles from Sig Academy). Everyone up here loves them. I think it's a New Hampshire pride thing. If you ever make it up here, you really need to check out the Sig Academy store. Two whole walls of guns. Very impressive. I particularly like the rifles. The pistols don't do much for me.

Thanks. I just checked them out. Very nice, but in the LaRue neighborhood for price.

I have seen and shot JimmyARG's LaRue. And you are correct about it being a laser. As much as I like that rifle, LaRue Stealth uppers go for $1200. I am trying to keep it around half that (or less). That is a good idea. I have never tried putting together an upper. I don't know what it really entails.

I ditched my Colt carbine because I enjoy shooting my BCM A4 style rifle. Now I am looking for a precision upper. I don't need something milspec since this is just going to be for putting holes (hopefully very closely spaced together) at long distances with a scope. I know White Oak Armament/Precision puts out a nice product. I am trying to keep on a budget as my guns funds are not what they used to be. Are Rock River Varmint Uppers worth looking at? Can people recommend some brands and models to me. I am inclined to only buy the upper for now, and build out the lower as funds come in. But if there is something that is a really good fit that only comes in rifle form, I would be OK with buying it. Also, I have a nice trigger to put in it (Geissele SSA-E), so that doesn't have to be a consideration. I would want it to be 1:7 or 1:8 twist since I have load heavy 223 bullets.

In my experience, the purpose built 22 pistols are more reliable than the scaled down versions of full size guns. The Ruger Mark or (my favorite) Browning Buckmark are great choices, albeit with 10 round capacity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk