High Exposure

No pic and a bad link to photobucket image.

The beauty of a 50/200 yard zero is you don't have to remember anything about your ballistic trajectory from zero out to about 215 yards except what you need to know regardless of zero for high risk/high percentage engagements inside 25 yards. You don't have to test your brain estimating distance or range and can operate at the highest level of competency - Unconcious Competence - while under stress. The 50/200 yard zero has a maximum of 3" of vertical deviation(+ or -) regardless of ammunition or environmental factors. So there are no holdover unless you are inside 25 yards (which you will have regardless of your zero distance). Outside of 25 yards you just put your dot center mass and press the trigger and hit within 3" vertical of your point of aim as long as you do your part. It is simple and simple is good when you are stressed and heart rate is 220 beats per minute. Also remember that the mission drives the train. If I was taking a high percentage shot at 200 yards with a Mk 12 mod 1 SPR this would be a different story, but, based on Combat Auto's other posts I believe we are talking about carbines with RDS or possibly a low magnification (3x) optic. No ballistic calculator, no reticle to speak of.

Yeah! I noticed that too.... But it is never anything I am looking for

Taylor Ham? WTF? Only BENNYs, transplants from NYC, and democrats call It 'Taylor Ham'. It is called 'Pork Roll' and it is verifiable proof that there is a God and he is good.

A lot of AR issues can be prevented simply by using quality equipment built correctly. Your "field repair kit" should start before you ever get in the field. First order of business is to ensure you have a gun built to, or exceeding, the mil-spec TDP from a reputable manufacturer that doesn't cut corners. Inspect the rifle and make sure that what is supposed to be staked is staked properly, what is supposed to show signs of wear is wearing evenly, your gas system is free of leaks (look around your gas block and delta ring for signs of leakage, make sure your gas rings are good) and everything is lubed as per the manufacturers directions. If you see a problem, it should be fixed before you get in the field - which leads us to... Second order of business is preventative maintenance of your rifle. Keep a log book of approximate round counts and change the appropriate parts at the appropriate interval for your system. Bolts, extractor assemblies, gas tubes, firing pins, cam pins, and action springs are wear items and need to be replaced or they will fail. Third order of business, make sure you are using quality magazines and quality ammunition. If you follow these 3 steps above, you will generally not need your "field repair kit" as you will be able to identify and repair any issues at your workbench before it becomes an issue the "field". But since sh!t happens, I assemble a field repair kit from mil-spec parts for each of my rifles. In my experience, other than magazine related malfinctions, most of the time when an AR stops working it is an upper related issue involving the BCG. When it is a lower problem, it is generally a fire control group issue (cracked hammer or trigger pins, the occasional broken disconnector) or something like a popped primer in the guts - which doesn't require new parts to fix, just removal of the debris. I have never seen a bolt carrier, mag catch, bolt catch, takedown pin, selector, selector detent, or ejector fail that wasn't FUBAR to begin and should have been caught during a cleaning or preventative maintenance inspection. Therefore, I do not include those parts in my "field repair" kit, they stay at the workbench at home along with the rest of my spare parts. My field repair kits consist of the following mil-spec parts: 1 complete spare bolt that has been headspaced with a No-Go gauge and test fired in that particular rifle 3 extra gas rings 2 extra firing pins 2 extra cam pins 2 firing pin retaining pins 3 extractor springs with appropriate inserts 1 extractor 2 hammer/trigger pins 1 trigger and disconnect 1 hammer 1 buffer retaining pin and spring The bolt, 1 firing pin, 1 firing pin retaining pin, and 1 cam pin are all stored on the rifle (pistol grip core, vert grip core, storage on the stock) everything else goes in a small plastic bag that lives in that specific rifles carrying case with 1 carbine length action spring and 1 mil-spec charging handle. I also keep a 1oz bottle of Slip 2000 EWL, a Multitasker AR tool (if you have an AR you should have this multi-tool), and a Glock Tool (3/32" punch) on my kit to make repairs if I have too. Note: All my parts are bought from reputable dealers selling only mil-spec parts built to the TDP such as Colt, LWRC, LMT, BCM, etc... with Stag as a last resort. No DPMS, Bushmaster, Armalite, Spikes, Rock River, or Olympic Arms etc... parts make it into my guns or my parts kits. Also, if I am going to a class that is a high round count, multi-day affair I always bring a second zeroed rifle so I don't have any down time playing WECSOG (Wyle E. Coyote School Of Gunsmithing) and can concentrate on why I am there, which is to learn. ETA: I see roughly 8k-10k rounds through AR rifles in the hands of guys I am training, and fire about 5k rounds of 5.56 myself in training every year. The only "Field repair" I have ever needed to make was a new action spring on the last day of a high round 3 day EAG COC2.

Your zero will depend on what optics you have and what "role" your rifle will play. Personally, I have found the a 50/200 yard zero is the best for a fighting carbine at typical urban engagement distances for those in permissive environments where you still need to ID your threat as a friend or foe before engaging. All of my social guns are zeroed at 50 yards. Target ID of friend or for is difficult at best past 200 yards. In an environment where everyone is an enemy this doesn't matter as much and a 300yard zero makes a little more sense. However with a 300 yard zero you still get a 12" deviation from highest to lowest (think of a 12" circle). Because of this hour holdovers can get a bit wonky and you will need to change your point of aim to get good hits on target if you can ID it as a shoot target. The 50/200 will give you +/- 3" (think of it as a 6" circle) out to 215 yards before sharply dropping off with any ammo from a 14.5"-16" barrel. That translates to center mass hits at targets in a range you can still ID without too much trouble. Hold center chest and hit the sternum to the throat with no change in point of aim from 0-215 yards. Inside 25 yards, you will have to deal with mechanical offset (sometimes referred to as a boreline-sightline discrepancy) for any high percentage/high accuracy shots you would need to take. Mechanical offset will rear it's head regardless of your zero distance.

Then you should be fine with the MOE setup or you can just buy a rail section and bolt it onto the handguards that comes with the rifle. How do you know you like the AFG? I bought one and hated it. Sold it after about 3 months of trying it out. It didn't fit my hand or my shooting style. You should shoot the rifle for a bit as it comes out of the box before deciding on the accessories you may or may not want. Good luck!

Just FYI: The Daniel Defense Omega 7 and 9 (carbine and mid-length respectively) are free floating and use the delta ring for installation. No dis-assembly required further than removal of the hand guards. I have an Omega 7 and an Omega 9 on two of my work rifles. They are good pieces of gear, but expensive. Especially if you don't really need a FF rail. The rest of my guns have Magpul MOE hand guards on them. If you are running a single point sling or setting your 2 point to connect close to the receiver instead of up by the front sight assembly you should be fine without a FF rail. If you only want to mount a white light and vert grip and do not have a requirement for visible or IR lasers that need to maintain zero, a non FF rail or Magpoul MOE hand guards will serve you fine and save you quite a few bucks. A FF rail does insulate the barrel from external forces that could effect accuracy when firing around barricades, but if you don't see yourself doing this too much, you should see no difference in performance between a FF and a non FF system. You can influence accuracy by around 4 MOA when applying pressure to you barrel and hand-guards (either by tightening a sling or pressing into a barricade or cover) while not using a FF rail system. If you are to a sub 4 moa shooter, you won't notice a difference. Keep in mind that rack grade accuracy for this type of rifle is around 3.5-4 MOA anyway and you are probably not shooting match ammo all the time. ETA: Vlad, it is not a more accurate vs less accurate situation. It is that the FF system can insulate the barrel from outside pressures if cinching a sling or tightening you position against cover. I have seen Paul Howe create 4" of deviation to his POA at 100 yards by using cover effectively and cinching down his sling.

Either your Mag Release Button itself or the hole in the receiver is out of spec. I ran into this when I put a DPMS LPK into a Defensive Edge lower receiver. The DPMS parts were found to be out of spec and the culprits in my instance. They were quickly sh!tcanned and replaced by mil spec parts. One fix you can try is to either tighten or loosen the mag catch by 1/2 revolution. If that doesnt work, you could buy a new mag release assembly. Note that new parts may fix the problem only if the parts are out of spec. If the lower is out of spec, you may be stuck.

There should be no o-ring around the ejector spring. There shouldn't be room for one anyway. You Also shouldn't have to remove the ejector in any case. I have never seen a bad ejector on an AR rifle. The bolt lugs (typically #1 and #7) or the body around the hole for the cam pin typically fail way before an ejector does. An extractor is a different story. You should remove, clean, and inspect your extractor whenever you clean your rifle. For a mil-spec, shot peened and MPI bolt setup your extractor assembly (extractor, extractor spring, and proper insert) should be replaced every 3000-5000 rounds for preventative maintenance. Commercial BCGs I have seen fail at around 1000 rounds so your intervals may need to be adjusted. There may be a small black rubber donut around your extractor spring (5 coils and copper is the current standard) Their should also be an insert in the spring (The insert should be black for a carbine setup and blue if rifle length). That is a part that was developed by Crane for their SOPMOD enhanced reliability kit. You should only need that on an extractor setup that is nearing the end of its usable lifespan or on some SBRs (especially full auto models). Some companies that produce guns that are not milspec add the donut to the extractor to make the gun run.

I believe that was a visual indicator to let the trainee know when to shoot similar to the turning and reactive targets we have today. Most ranges now use some type of audible stimulus to tell you when to fire - a timer beep, a whistle or command. That is great and convenient for the range staff, and fine for competition and target shooting, but falls short when teaching "combat" or "gun fighting" skills. How many shootings are actually started by an audible indicator? It is generally a visual indicator that lets the shooter on the reaction side of the gunfight know it is on. You respond to motion and the visual vereification of the presence or absence of a threat. It was also cool seeing the "Turnipseed" technique in that video (that unbalanced one foot off the ground as you "fall" forward and shoot). I had heard about it but had never really seen it before. We have come a long was with a lot of things, but those guys started the ball rolling to get what we have now. Thanks for posting!

The coolest thing about that kilt is that Josh "Scruffy" Wallace - the bagpiper for the Dropkick Murphy's" - designed it for 5.11 after Kyle Lamb got him involved. Scruffy is an awesome guy. Very down to Earth and a decent shooter as well!

I have 4. One on my duty belt, and 3 on 5.56x45 rifles. I am planning in buying more to replace the Surefire G2 and G2x flashlights I currently have assigned to do other jobs (Wife's Purse, both cars, tool box, go bag, nightstand, etc...) These EAG Fury lights are the best value light out there right now in my opinion. 500 lumens designed with the throw/focus that Surefire has engineered into these lights is my new standard for all social guns and working lights. 500 lumes gives you the ability to not only acquire a target but to discern if they are a threat or not at distances up to and sometimes past 100 yards. (my minimum is 200 lumens as acceptable, but 500 is preferable - More is good too if the beam is focused correctly) Also, the idea that you will "blind" yourself with 500 lumens on a gun if you do "room entry" or CQB type work is flat out false. The light will light up the room, allow you to search more efficiently by removing a lot of the shadow that more focused lights cast, and will enable you to ID a threat faster. It will most assuredly not blind you. Buy with confidence.

Yup. Most definitely HK UMPs.

Having some friends that live up in "America's Hat" and having spent a lot of time in BC and Alberta in my younger days, That's pretty darn funny

My point, you missed it.... Also if you thought that it was going to be another pissing match and you really wanted to avoid it, why did you even respond? Good luck with it Shawn, I am eager to hear a range report/AAR after you put it through its paces. And, I have to ask. Why didn't you just give us that info when you posted the pic? I had one (Aimpoint in a LaRue FTS) but didn't like it. Worked with it for about a year and a half, used it through 2 EAG COC courses and a trip to Blackwater and I found I was faster and more accurate without it at the distances I train the most at (100yards and in). The FOV was not as good as I would like, it was heavy, the balance was off when driving the gun on multiple targets while FTS. When the magnifier was flipped it snagged on my gear and was uncomfortable against my chest when I wasn't wearing my PC. It also made the rifle flop around weird when slung. For what I wanted, it just didn't work for me so I traded it for a Trijicon MRDS for my Glock and haven't looked back.

Hey good one! Oh, and by the way - Clever rarely is Seriously Shawn. Tell us about the magnifier. Why did you choose this one? How do you like it so far? Would you recommend it to other board users and why? What is the zero you have on the RDS and how does the Magnifier affect it? Did you have to zero the magnifier separately from the RDS? Why did you choose FTS rather than QD? How does the rifle handle with the magnifier flipped over? Does the magnifier make the reticle smear and look like a comet or does it stay crisp and centered? How's the field of view compare with magnifier up and down? When you sling the rifle and the magnifier is flipped to the side, does it snag? Is it comfortable? Anything other than "check it out" would be useful to the board. ETA: Oh, also, Shawn while I have your attention - that is an accessory not a modification. Nit-picky, I know. But words do have meanings.

Is it? Is it really? How do you know with nothing more than a picture? It might be the best firearm accessory since rifling, but with nothing more than a picture and a "Hey check it it bro" sadly, we will never know...

It's not the EoTech. It's not the magnifier. It's that the post has no substance. What does the OP like about it? What does he not like about it? How's the glass? What mount did he choose and why? What's the intended use? Basically, why should we care that he got a magnifier? Why is that post worthy? Or this just another "Look at my trunk" (http://njgunforums.com/forum/index.php/topic/46605-look-at-my-trunk/page__hl__trunk__fromsearch__1) thread? The fact that I like green has as much useful information to any readers of this thread as the original post. ETA: You know you are being given enough rope to hang yourself when an Administrator throws out the Popcorn Smiley....

And.....? My favorite color is Green

I think that after the Boston bombings and the pursuit of the terrorists in the city and surrounding areas that we are going to see more of these types of reports in the near future. I do wonder if the actual frequency of these events will increase, or just the reporting of them in an effort to make the general public feel as if our security measures are effective and to make them feel safer today and they felt yesterday. http://www.foxnews.com/world/2013/04/22/canadian-police-announce-arrests-suspects-planning-major-terrorist-attack/ We all need to be like a midget at a urinal - on our toes.

I had my G35 slide Cerakoted in Coyote Brown after getting it milled for a MRDS: It has held up great. Cycles fine and the finish is still strong after thousands of holster presentations and a just under 1k rounds through it.

I am looking for a local (central NJ preferable, but anywhere in the state works) Kydex holster maker for help with a custom project. Any and all leads appreciated! Thanks. (Mods please move if there is a more suitable location for this. Thanks.)

For work I have a Plate Carrier (MSA SOHPC) and a war belt (First Spear Gunfighter Belt with ATS Warbelt sleeve). I shoot all training classes in PC and Warbelt and about 80% of all personal training in both as well. I also shoot all the Steel Comps at OBRPC that I attend in the Warbelt (sometimes my duty rig) and sometimes wear my armor as well. If you have a requirement to shoot in armor, you need to practice/train with it. The weight changes balance and shooting positions. Your standing, squatting, kneeling, prone and asymmetric/unconventional positions all have to built differently in your gear then when you are running slick. The bulk of it changes everything from how you access your ammo to your cheekweld and stock placement on a rifle and how far you can extend your arms when shooting pistols in a typical modified isosceles/combat stance. I have a number if chest rigs ( a BFG 10 Speed and an old Diamondback tactical model get the most use) that I will use occasionally, but mostly they are stashed for use when the PC would be inappropriate or too conspicuous. ETA: Lalo is right - this shouldn't turn into a photo thread. Pics removed.

Yeah, that's pretty bad But sometimes, you have to dance with who ya brung.