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ajr576

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About ajr576

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  • Home Range
    Cherry Ridge

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  1. Thanks, I did see those but was hoping to find some locally at a reasonable price and save on shipping.
  2. Still looking... trades or cash in exchange for .38 special ammo.
  3. I would have already bought it but unfortunately Tula uses a "copper washed steel jacket bullet"... the following is a quote from an online review of the Tula .38 special ammo... "The 130gr Tula .38 Special ammo I tested was a pretty standard Tula product: full metal jacket bullet, polymer-coated steel case, and a non-corrosive Boxer Primer. The bullet also attracted a magnet, indicating that it had a copper washed steel jacket. This is something to keep in mind before you buy any Tula products, as many ranges do not allow shooters to use steel jacketed bullets."
  4. Thanks but still looking... I'm finding quality .38 online for around .70 per round shipped but hoping to do better locally. Let me know if you have some at a reasonable price.
  5. Thanks but I'm trying to stick with copper jacketed bullets in my beloved Smiths.
  6. Thanks for reaching out. Bloomfield is only about 25 minutes away so yes, I'd be interested... and I can pay cash.
  7. I also have a Burris MTAC 1-4 scope with a Weaver cantilever mount (both in excellent condition) that I'd be willing to trade for quality. 38 special ammo.
  8. Stu, I do realize that but thanks for checking. You seem to suggest that Ruger is purchasing/using a lower grade stainless steel and performing a separate manufacturing process for the .38 SP101s vs. simply reaming the .357 cylinders a bit longer? From logistical and economic perspectives, that seems illogical but (***disclaimer***) since I'm not a Ruger engineer, I guess anything is possible. Since I'm curious, I went to Ruger's website and looked at pictures of current .38 SP101s, which also don't appear to be stamped for "+p" use. I also downloaded a copy of the SP101 user manual and read the following on page 11 under "Ammunition"... "Notes on Caliber 38 Special: 38 Special caliber revolvers are designed specifically for modern higher-powered factory loaded cartridges, including 38 Special and 38 Special +P ammunition." There's no mention of exceptions to this (i.e. specific manufacturer dates, etc.)...but (again) I'm not a Ruger engineer so I can't say with certainty. Tonester2, based on my experiences with most gun manufacturer CSRs, most are (typically/unfortunately) fairly inexperienced and simply providing the most appropriate canned response. If you're looking for a definitive answer, I wouldn't settle for what others might be doing with their firearms...instead, your best path forward is to call and speak with a Ruger service/tech manager. And please report back with what you learn.
  9. As previously stated, the SP101 is a very stout revolver that's also made in .357 magnum and I'm pretty sure there's no difference between the SP101 .38 special and .357 magnum models (other than cylinders) so you should be fine shooting .38 +P ammo out of it.
  10. Anybody in the Bergen County area (my range is Cherry Ridge/ willing to drive a bit) have some .38 special ammo that you'd like to trade for some .223/5.56 or sell? If so, please reach out.
  11. Thanks again, I'm planning to reach out to Pinnacle High Performance. They're about 90 minutes away (not a bad ride) so I can drive the gun out to them and avoid the shipping costs. Any issues with crossing state lines with a handgun?
  12. I appreciate the responses. I've been on a bit of a revolver kick and recently picked up a 686+ Talo and I've got a 640 no dash .38 sitting at my FFL / waiting for the 31 day period to expire The gun that might need some work is the 640. It's been carried and used but overall, it's in very good condition. I did give it a quick look over while I was picking up the 686 and noticed some endshake. I didn't have a lot of time with it but the cylinder also seemed to have a bit more side-to-side play than typical. I'm really looking for an experienced gunsmith to go through it and address anything that might need to be done to bring it back to "like new" condition...minimize the endshake/tighten up the lockup, replace all of the springs and screws, and possibly glass bead blast it as well. I was doing some searches and ran across BC Armory's "Ultimate Duty Tune" package https://bcarmory.com/smith-and-wesson.html which seems to address anything that it might need at a very good price but wanted to see if there's someone local that could do the same so I could avoid the shipping costs.
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