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chris327

Remington 1100 12ga barrel

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I have a remington 1100 12ga 3 inch magnum. It does not cycle light 2 3/4 loads. I don't hunt with this gun so I have no need for the 3 in magnum. I plan on using it for informal skeet / trap. Anyone know what barrel and choke assembly I should get to change it to 2 3/4. From my understanding i need to change the barrel and choke as they are connected. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Not sure on length either for it. is it worth changing the barrel on it or is it better to just sell and buy a different one. Also, how hard is it to change? Can I do myself?

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I didn't have a 3 inch magnum, but when my regular one wouldnt cycle target loads correctly.. I took it completely apart and cleaned it like wtf. Then I over lubed it, and it worked fine. Seemed like mine liked to run wet.

 

As far as the choke/barrel issue. The barrel comes right off when you take the mag cap off. So its a 2 minute job if that.. but do you have removable chokes or a fixed choke?

 

Removable chokes should screw right in and out with alittle wrench.

 

I had a 30 inch barrel on mine and loved it for trap with a full choke.. it was almost too easy.. but that's personal preference, target distance, shot load, etc..

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Your 1100 3" Magnum has a single gas port in the barrel for venting gas. Your action is designed to cycle from that barrel with heavy field loads of 1 1/4 ozs. and heavier. The standard 1100 2 3/4" barrel set up for target or field loads has two gas ports. You can replace your 3" chambered barrel with a standard 1100 target barrel. It should work fine with 1 1/8 oz. skeet or trap loads. There is talk in the link I provided of swapping out other parts, so you may want to confer with a gunsmith for their opinion as well. Parts are cheap and simple to replace yourself. I know of shooters who have had gunsmiths drill an additional port OR enlarge the existing port. (Some add the second port with a removable set screw.) I suspect too it depends on how light a load you want to go where you may have cycling problems (I.E. 2 3/4" 1 oz.) It is important that port remain free of debris.

 

Remington 1100

 

Choke will be determined by whether you plan to shoot trap or skeet. (I have two friends who shoot skeet with their 1100's and 26" bbl. barrels with a fixed SKEET choke. They have been doing so for thirty years now with no problems.) Barrel length is a personal opinion. Most opt for the 28" bbl. for target work, and you can find 30" bbls. for trap if needed. Buying an 1100 barrel may still lock you into a setup with a fixed choke, as most 1100 barrels had fixed chokes, which is not the most versatile today. The original 3" 11-87 which replaced the 1100 handles light 2 3/4" loads to heavy 3" 2 oz. loads with no problem. And 11-87 barrels are equipped with RemChoke's.

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it is an older 1100 and from my understanding they were all fixed chokes. I mean I could I guess port another hole but I don't think that makes sense. It has under 50rds through it and was a safe queen and never shot until about 3 years ago. Then it was put back the safe since. I think i should just get another choke and barrell assembly and keep this one on the side. Can anyone give me a link of what barrel would be good? I was looking on gun broker and there's tons to choose from. Looking to get used in order to save some money as I don't want to spend 230 on a new one as i think I would be better off selling it and getting a new one at that point.

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You could thread the existing barrel for a RemChoke but you'd still have an issue with the barrel's single gas port porting the gas properly to function with light loads. That means an alternation is necessary which some may not want to do. Better to find a replacement barrel for light loads, preferably one that is RemChoke'd. Keep in mind Remington also made "light contour" barrels for this model, so RemChoke barrels found for sale listed as "LC" are thinner walled in construction. (This was done to enhance the handling qualities of the shotgun as it made for a lighter swinging, easier carrying shotgun.) Fitting one to your existing 1100 will work fine but will show a gap between the forend wood and barrel. Some find this unsightly but it's only a cosmetic issue. (You can buy a replacement forend from Remington suited for the light contour barrels if you desire.)

 

The fact that all these options are there for you indicate you are not the only one who has encountered this dilemma. There are plenty of solutions.

 

Two links for used barrels:

Barrel Exchange

Corson's Barrels

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thank you for the links. Yea im going to go the full barrel route. this would with correct?

 

http://www.barrelexchange.com/seller_detail.cfm?recordID=REM-61

 

I know it says 90% but that's fine for what I'm using it for.

What is imp cyl. And 26in is good enough right?

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thank you for the links. Yea im going to go the full barrel route. this would with correct?

 

http://www.barrelexchange.com/seller_detail.cfm?recordID=REM-61

 

I know it says 90% but that's fine for what I'm using it for.

What is imp cyl. And 26in is good enough right?

Based on the link you sent me, "PLAIN" means the barrel has no vent. rib. That's an aesthetic decision you may want to ponder.

 

SKEET or Imp. Cyl. are fine for a skeet course. You would preferably want at least MOD for trap and FULL is better for all presentations offered on a trap field. SKEET is up to .006" tighter than a true CYLINDER designation, delivering 45% patterns at 40 yds. IMP.CYL. is .007" to .013" tighter than true CYLINDER, delivering 55% patterns at 40 yds. Manufacturers are vary their choke dimensions based on internal barrel dimensions so a good way to tell is to mike the muzzle. You'll notice the variances then. Some makers list their I.D. measurements, others do not.

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Based on the link you sent me, "PLAIN" means the barrel has no vent. rib. That's an aesthetic decision you may want to ponder.

 

SKEET or Imp. Cyl. are fine for a skeet course. You would preferably want at least MOD for trap and FULL is better for all presentations offered on a trap field. SKEET is up to .006" tighter than a true CYLINDER designation, delivering 45% patterns at 40 yds. IMP.CYL. is .007" to .013" tighter than true CYLINDER, delivering 55% patterns at 40 yds. Manufacturers are vary their choke dimensions based on internal barrel dimensions so a good way to tell is to mike the muzzle. You'll notice the variances then. Some makers list their I.D. measurements, others do not.

 

The vent rib doesn't matter to me. As i plan to use it and don't want to worry when the gf out someone else use it.

Your lost me on the whole choke thing. But since I'm not doing anythingformal I think it will work for me. Thank you guys ordering tomorrow.

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The vent rib doesn't matter to me. As i plan to use it and don't want to worry when the gf out someone else use it.

Your lost me on the whole choke thing. But since I'm not doing anythingformal I think it will work for me. Thank you guys ordering tomorrow.

Percentages are defined as the "percentage of shot pellets inside a 30" circle at 40 yds." Improved Cylinder choke will be effective for most clay presentations out to 30 yds. Patterns thin beyond that and there will be "voids" in your pattern where a clay will go unscathed.

 

Some info on chokes:

Choke Selection

 

Measurement of choke constrictions:

Choke Chart

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before you spend more than $10, did you replace your o-ring and check/clean your gas port? if you're losing (or not getting enough) gas, that may be your problem. buddy had same issue with light target loads on that barrel, replaced it for him and no problems since.

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I didn't check that but it is old and remington says the old ones will not work properly. i got the barrel this weekend. 50 bucks on gun broker used. Tried it out and its perfect thanks guys. It destroyed the clays and function flawlessly.

 

Ps. Anyone looking to get rid of an old thrower let me know. dont have the money to buy a new one right now but wanna get a old one as I save up for the new one.

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