Malsua

I think you're right. I attribute it to youth and exuberance. I've been shooting guns for 40+ years and frankly have never noticed any difference in accuracy between clean guns or dirty guns. I had a Marlin .22 for 20+ years that was NEVER cleaned, ever, bolt action, tack driver, every time. I have had guns that jammed or stove-piped or whatever when dirty(my 1954 1911 for example, still true to this day). My CZ-52 also stove piped when dirty, sold that one. Every modern gun I own doesn't care. I figure if it doesn't care, I'm not going to start caring

I can see in the front of the box in the bottom corner. You block the wheels, maybe strap the ladder to either side. It can't go anywhere. This? Those boards could slip, flip, break, etc. That's a deadly fall. Ah well, not my monkey, not my circus.

When you absolutely, positively need 4 more feet, strap some scrap wood on your truck bed for the win!

If your going into a 15am outlet, buy at 14ga extension cord and run it through the conduit and into a box and wire your outlets. You can buy plugs that screw into an outlet so they can't be removed on the plug side. If you have a 20ga outlet, you can get a 12ga extension cord. Also, if you've go anything heavy on that circuit, maybe you can move that item to a different circuit. Personally, if it's just a 15amp circuit, I would leave it just a double outlet. Every 4 outlet I've ever wired in our facility was 20amp because people start jamming everything they can into it and if I did that with a 15a circuit, they would ultimately pop a breaker.

Are you running THNN in the conduit? The answer changes if that's the case as you'd have to wire directly into the box on either end. You don't need a permit to make an extension cord, but how the cord is wired matters. You can get rubber 3 conductor service cord and run it through conduit and put your own ends on it. You could cut one end off a cheap extension cord, fish it through the conduit and put a new end on it on one side. It's only 16ga in most common cords, so that affects your amperage allowance. I assume you want the conduit just to be neat and not tripping over a cord?

Any cleaning kit will work. As long as they have a brush, a mop and the push rods, you're good to go. You can usually get a decent one on Ebay for like $20. You will probably go through a bunch of different sprays and lubes. I like G96 gun treatment because it smells decent, almost like bubble gum. A can lasts me a LONG time and when I clean, I clean 6+ at a time. That said, no sense cleaning your gun after every range trip. A rem oil/g96 wipe down for the slide is enough most of the time. I think people obsess about cleaning and if your gun needs cleaned constantly to run right, maybe get a different gun ;). If you run corrosive ammo, that's a different animal and when I run corrosive, I windex at the range and thorough cleaning when I get home. My poor P30, I've had it 11 years now. I'm probably on my 6th detailed cleaning and it's run probably 5 to 7k rounds(I lost track around 3k). It just doesn't make any difference to the gun but when I notice buildup on the feed ramp, I clean it.

I only double up with soft plugs indoor, outdoor isn't much of an issue. I normally use Howard Leight Impact Sport Electronic Earmuffs. They are at least 10 years old and while beat up a bit, still work fine. If those are too much for your taste, get something that is completely over the ear like a Stanley ear muff from Home Depot. Ah, I'm across the main lake on Lakeside Dr W. It's a bit more spread out on my side, it's like a rabbit warren over on Canistear side.

Cliffwood Lakes or Highland lakes , everything else is further away.

I've sold a ton more through Facebook although I did sell a car in January of 19 through Craigslist. That response is a scam. Put it up on FB and you'll get responses, most will be in your region. My issue is that I am close enough to Newburg that I get a lot of Spanish inquiries, right up until they realize it's over an hour to get here.

Well, to be fair, the first addition doubled the sq footage, tripled the volume, added a level and rebuilt 75% of the original house as well. It was almost a tear-down rebuild. There was a LOT of detail. Worth every penny because the guy knew everyone at the building department and anything with his name on it goes through without issue because he's good and it's to code the first time. It is also a unique design and the only house like it, probably anywhere.

I've done two additions. The big one is block on footings and the other, our kitchen is on piers. The bottom line is you need to hire an architect and they will see what you have, determine if it's enough and give you a plan for the addition. The blueprints will be something a builder can follow. Our Architectural costs were $5k(2012) for the big addition and the small one was $1600(2017). That's up where I live. Expect a bit more where you live. Permits, surveys, etc all extra cost.

So ORM-D small quantity exception is going away at the end of this year. After that, everything is full hazmat charge. It's entirely possible that Cabelas has decided to implement the rule now, 7 months ahead of time. They may extend the closure deadline again, as this was a rule change in 2013 to eliminate the ORM-D exception. This is exactly the kinda thing Trump likes to squish as it will cost Americans a lot more money going forward.

I get that, my point I believe they are going to standardize everything under "Hazmat" with the white square. The feds probably changed a rule under Obama to make it harder to ship ammo.

I do know that UPS has eliminated the ORM-D Marking and everything now has the Hazmat Black and white square. Found that out last year when I shipped some 22-250 from FL to NJ. They required that I put the new markings on the box. It probably doesn't matter how much you ship or at least that's what they are saying here. ------------ https://www.ups.com/us/en/help-center/packaging-and-supplies/special-care-shipments/hazardous-materials/shipping-ammunition.page How to Ship Ammunition (Cartridges, Small Arms) UPS accepts for transportation such ammunition as constitutes "cartridges, small arms," as defined in 49 C.F.R. § 173.59. All other allowable ammunition shipments are accepted only on a contractual basis, and must be prepared under the rules for a fully regulated hazardous material. Ammunition will be transported only when packaged and labeled in compliance with 49 C.F.R. § 172 (Hazardous Materials), and must be shipped in accordance with the UPS Guide for Shipping Ground and Air Hazardous Materials. To meet the exception for Limited Quantity/ORM-D, ammunition can be shipped via UPS Ground only within the 48 contiguous United States, UPS Ground Intra-Oahu and Intra-Alaska. To qualify as "Cartridges, small arms ORM-D" or limited quantity, ammunition must be: Ammunition that does not exceed 12.7 mm (50 caliber or 0.5 inch) for rifle or pistol cartridges or 8 gauge for shotgun shells; or Ammunition with inert projectiles or blank ammunition Is a Hazardous Materials Label or Marking Required? Yes, (until December 31, 2020) packages that meet the definition of Cartridges, small arms must be marked with the proper shipping name "Cartridges, small arms", and designated as "ORM-D". Materials marked "ORM-D" and shipped by UPS Ground within the 48 contiguous states, UPS Ground Intra-Oahu and Intra-Alaska do not require hazardous material shipping papers. This marking may either be in the form of an ORM-D sticker, or written by hand. If written by hand the letters "ORM-D" must be enclosed by a rectangle that is ¼" larger on each side than the designation "ORM-D". (Note: The image below can be printed, cut out, and securely taped to the box with clear packing tape.) Alternatively, a black and white limited quantity marking (approximately 4 X 4 inches) may be used. (see example). Print the ORM-D or Limited Quantity marking and securely affix to your package. If using the limited quantity marking, please place on package as a "square on point" or "diamond".

ORM-D is Hazmat in limited quantity.

Ammo is a Hazmat. I looked at an old Cabelas order and it says postage, not breaking it out as Hazmat. Look at that price for 9mm. lol. Desperate times. It never shipped by the way and I cancelled the order.

I also did another vid in 2010 shows a bit of the other ranges with some guys from here. Most have moved on though.

Here's a video I took shooting at the rimfire range in 2009. It shows what the range looked like then.

I would just verify that you have no continuity via case ground from the condenser to the furnace. Sometimes they ground via the armored BX. You need them both 100% isolated including the ground. Since grounds and neutral are bonded on your main panel, that means it would be possible for a neutral to send voltage from the hot on one genset, through the neutral to the panel, to the ground, through the furnace to the case ground to the condensor back to the other genset. Breakers would trip but probably not before the bigger genset would molest the smaller one. Exceedingly remote possibility and it would require something malfunctioning, but you need to make sure they are not joined in any fashion.

I live 2 miles from Cherry Ridge and have been a member since 2008. It's quite a bit different these days, all of it good. Most of the fudds are gone or in hiding. No more glares when you bring out an AR! One of my favorite times to shoot is New Years day. It's often cold and early morning on Jan 1 tends to keep most people away. Since I haven't had a drink on New Year Even in decades, I wake up bright and early and have the whole range to myself! Membership Sundays are to be avoided. Weekends early or late are best. Mid-days tend to be busy. If you can get down during the weeks, it's perfect! Have fun, see you at the range.

In most HVAC, the "system" is controlled through the furnace. The AC just has two low voltage wires, C/Y that close when AC is called. This closes a coil that pulls down a contactor which then kicks the condenser on. The furnace then handles the air handler, speeds and whatnot. The problem is every system is a bit different, specially if you have a multi-stage heat pump. In theory you could drive the high amperage AC to the condenser from one Genset and get the low voltage control circuitry from the furnace transformer which is running on a different genset. I see no real reason why this wouldn't work. The problem is your system could be different. A better solution would be to have your Furnace and AC unit on one genset, 100% isolated. This means you need to put a pigtail on both units that you unplug and transfer to a different outlet so you are not co-mingling neutrals or grounds. The low voltage side grounds through the transformer and the transformer grounds to AC. If your condenser is just a two wire coil and no case ground, it would be fine as it would be isolated. If the low voltage side has a 3rd wire case ground to the condenser, you have a path from one genset to the other through that ground and that's bad mojo. Your gas furnace is probably 110v. They hardly use any electricity. This means it's using one leg hot, one neutral at 110v. Your AC is 220v using two hots, probably a ground, , maybe a neutral, probably not. Maybe all 4, probably not. It all depends on what it is.

I would only comment that I personally would not run steel or aluminum in a new gun. The reason being that you need a baseline. If the gun won't run solid with brass, the problem is most likely the gun. Once you're sure the gun is solid, you can introduce steel or aluminum and if you have failures, you can blame the ammo. Also, super cheap steel and aluminum may have a lacquer coating or something else that impedes function. Shrug. Start with the fewest possible variables. Run a known brand of brass for at least 200 rounds would be my suggestion.

Excellent. I'm really envious of the side-loading in .44.

I've been a member of RDforum since 2012 but I hadn't really bothered with SAAVY and whatever connection was for the V1G1. Now that it's bluetooth direct, it's much better. That said, there is a fairly steep learning curve to JBV1 and I am familiar with most of the terminology! I guess with great power comes great responsibility.

The picture above is JBV1 log this AM with the Gen2. It is a little confusing but I'm working through it.