High Exposure

Sorry, I just saw this and feel it needs a response. First, you should never be "lining up 3 dots" - I am assuming you are referring to your night sights here. You should always be striving to use the physical outline of your front and rear sights at all times. The dots are reference points to obtain a rough sight alignment in Low light/no light until you use your white light and are able to get a proper sight picture. As a last ditch effort, you may be able to use them to obtain a sight picture, but you better make sure you can ID your target as a legitimate threat first. Up close and personal, you may decide to use a "flash" sight picture. That is a topic for a whole other thread. I personally obtain a proper sight picture and I try to use the first-best sight picture possible for every round I let go, whether in competition, training, or real life. Finally, nothing in CQB/CQC is instinctual. Especially aiming at a threat. Everything you do while in CQB/FISHing is methodical and precise. Your weapon manipulations- reloads, clearing malfunctions, adjusting for offset, etc... may be at the unconscious competent level but you are never running on autopilot in your movements, target aquisition, selection or identification, your aiming, or your decision to engage a threat.

Local PD may not print for anything other than an arrest. You will probably have to go to Morphotrak. I think the nearest one to East Brunswick is in South Plainfield. You may need a form from the PD authorizing you for the prints. Contact Morphotrak for more info. http://www.morphotrak.com/index.asp

A friend of mine owns over 50 gas stations in NJ. He normally gets 70 fuel deliveries daily. He told me yesterday that even pulling every string he has, he is fighting to get 3 loads daily. It is absolutely not just panic.

Right on. Glad you had a white light too. A lot of people think that because they are called "night sights" that that is all they need in the dark. If you find the night sights are too bright, a take a black sharpie and color over the rear dots. It makes a big difference distinguishing the front from the rear sights and make it easier to see past the glow of the rear tritium vials. I have found this makes a huge difference in speed and accuracy, especially with fresh sights. Not knocking the Kahr in the pocket holster, I often carry my PM9 in a DeSantis Nemisis myself (as a backup to the gun on my hip). It is a very capable method of carry. Just letting you know that if you are new to carrying a gun for long periods of time, It gets more comfortable and less stressful. Glad you made out alright!

FYI: The Hess at 2800 Rt 1 North in North Brunswick (Just past Finnegan's Lane) was accidentally filling cars with Diesel fuel. Apparantly the delivery truck put diesel instead of unleaded in the storage tank for the gas pumps. Any problems call: 732-750-6000

I bet no one would have realized you had a gun on your hip with the right clothes. Most people don't even notice a holstered firearm on your hip because they don't expect to see them. It is actually strange. You feel like you are wearing a bright flashing sign proclaiming "I HAVE A GUN!!!" but no one notices. The right bolster can help with comfort (unless you meant you were mentally uncomfortable instead of physically uncomfortable carrying a firearm in that fashion). After an hour or so you physically forget it is there. As far as night sights on your pistol, they will help with sight alignment but not sight picture. What I mean by that is this - sight alignment is simply placing the front sight in the notch in the rear sight appropriately. Sight picture is aligning your sights on a target. Night sights make sight alignment possible in the dark by giving you reference points for your sights in the form of glowing dots. They do NOT help you acquire, identify, or discriminate targets. You need a white light for that. As soon as you light up your target for ID/discrimination purposes you no longer need the glowing reference points as you now have a nice bright background/target to align your actual sights on. Night sights by themselves are useful for about an hour a day, during twilight and dawn during that weird time when it is light enough to ID a threat but a little to dark to get a good sight picture without a reference point. Even then a white light is a good idea.

I just left the Highland Park Lukoil (Rt 27 and Woodbridge Ave) - 5 Minute wait, just like a regular day. They will be open all day.

I would really like my wife to be able to shoot a 5.56x45 carbine as well as a .22. But, since that's not the case for a lot of varying reasons, I would rather she defend herself with a .22 Carbine that she can shoot quickly and accurately enough to put 15 rounds of .22LR in a 6 inch circle at 15 yards in under 2.5 seconds than a .45 that she can get maybe 3 shots off in the same time in a bigger group.

Read this twice then write it down. This is TRUTH.

A couple of quick point regarding Bean-Bag or any Less Lethal Rounds fired from a firearm: 1. Do not Mix Less-Lethal and Lethal Platforms. Veeeery bad Juju. If you are worried about an ND, leave your shotgun cruiser ready. You are racking a round to get to lethal anyway, why not start on an empty chamber. Rather a *click* than the *boom* from a bean bag (which can be deadly BTW) fired negligently. 2. If you need a LL shotgun to persuade 4 legged critters (not commenting on the legality here, or if anyone would actually do this), get a dedicated LL platform. You can get a beater Police trade in 870 for $100 at a gun show. Mark it somehow to make ID easy (paint the stock yellow or orange, Use a pistol grip for LL and a Std stock for Lethal, etc...). 3. Anything fired from a Firearm in NJ is lethal force with the same rules, restrictions and criteria for use. That includes Less-Lethal rounds such as beanbags, socks, wooden/rubber bullets, rocksalt as well as standard/lethal ammunition such as slugs, buckshot, birdshot, etc... 4. Until recently LL was not allowed in NJ even by LEO. That has changed but the regulations on their use are specific and thorough. LEO's have to be specially trained and authorized to use LL on duty. 5. LL/Beanbags are notorious for not stopping bad guys, especially if they are in a condition to not feel pain (High, drunk, delerious, scared, shock, etc...) I have seen people shrug off multiple LL impact rounds to the center of the chest, the legs, the hips and the abdomen, and continue to be aggressive. 6. LL should only be used with lethal overwatch/lethal cover and never as a standalone system when dealing with someone that meets the criteria for the use of deadly physical force. Remember, in NJ, you can only shoot someone with a LL round if they meet the same standard as deserving (legally) of lethal ammunition. There is absolutely zero advantages to having Less-Lethal firearm ammunition as a civilian for any self defense purposes in NJ. Be safe everyone. At this time, the best weapon against being a victim in NJ is between your ears. Use your head, trust your gut, and stay situationally aware. Back to another 20 hour day. KPDPipes, be careful brother. I know it is real bad there.

I agree the G2 is an excellent light for the price, but anything less than 200 lumens is not bright enough for serious low light "social" work on a long gun. 200 lumens is even lower than I like, but it is acceptable at 50 yards and in. With the new Surefire Fury 500 lumen lights and G2X 300 lumen lights coming out at around $100, I think they are the way to go. If you already have a G2, go to TNVC.com and look at ther Cree Q5 lamp ($45.00) as an upgrade. It works with the original plastic head on an incan G2, throws a little over 200 lumens, and has a run time of 2 hours. Then again, for about the same price as a G2 and TNVC Head, you can get the new Surefire G2X at over 300 Lumens, or one of the Fury lights at 500 Lumens. The M951 is obsolete. Heavy, limited mounting options, dim, low battery life. For half of the price of a m951, you can buy a 500 lumen Surefire Defender Fury ($108) and a VTAC mount ($25) to put it in.

Low cost and High Value Light Secure Mount most lights with a .80 or 1” diameter and will fit the VTAC-L4 as well as the inexpensive Surefire G2 Nitrolon, Executive Series Lights, and many others. Nearly indestructable (If I haven't broken any of my 3 over the last 4 years, they are good to go) Well thought out Puts the light where I like it Good Company with excellent CS (I lost a screw. Mount still worked but I wanted a replacement. I had 5 in my mailbox the next day, no charge) Made in America

VTAC, hands down. It is the best value for the money out there. http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Viking-Tactics-Light-Mount-BLACK-p/vtac-mk4-blk.htm

Like Henrym says, a Glock will never have a trigger pull like a 1911. That is by design of the pistol itself and the differences between then. First, Look at the direction a 1911 trigger is moved to fire - straight to the rear on the horshoe shaped trigger bar. It has a slim single stack grip enabling you to hang on to the pistol without squeezing your whole hand, leaving you trigger finger free to move independently from the rest of your hand. Everything we know about trigger control - straight to the rear, press don't squeeze, etc... Is reflected in the design of the 1911 trigger. The 1911 trigger makes it easier to follow the fundamentals of trigger control because, by design, you have to. It has an external safety, making the only thing you feel as you press the trigger on a 1911 the sear. Then look at a Glock trigger, hinged at the top like most pistols on the market, moving the trigger bar back and up. Double stack grip making it a little harder to isolate your trigger finger during firing. Your finger moves in a completely different direction then is natural and necessary to fire a pistol accurately. Additionally, you are disengaging all three of the Glock's safeties as you press the trigger (the trigger, firing pin, and drop safeties). The creep/slack/spongy feel you get is a result of the disengaging of the last two safeties, (the firing pin and drop safeties). A lot of the aftermarket triggers (I know specifically the Haley does this) make the Glock trigger "crisper" and with less take up by bringing the trigger as close as possible to the point where the safeties are released Prior to releasing the striker, without fully releasing them. Unfortunately, that isn't always the case with a mass produced, mix and match, firearm with loose tolerances. Some Glocks actually have their internal safety mechanisms disengaged by installing aftermarket triggers. If you have one, I suggest you acquire an orange slide cover and inspect the internals while dry firing under observation, and ensure that the safeties are working and are engaging/disengaging at the proper moments. Subjectively, the lighter the trigger a Glock has, the spongier the trigger feels to me. Conversly the heavier the trigger, the crisper it seems. I say all this as strictly a .40 caliber Glock shooter that traded his last 1911 for a nice US rifle M1 .30 cal and has not looked back. I use a 5lb connecters and all Glock OEM parts in all of my Glocks except my competition G35. That has a 3.5 trigger connector, a titanium firing pin safety, aftermarket springs (Wolff), and some lightly polished Glock OEM parts such as the striker and trigger bar (mostly from 1000s of rounds of dry firing)

Still working on it, but it will look something like this redneck assault rifle: Main differences for what I want being: Full length mag tube (6 rounds) Big Lever Loop T1 instead of RMR

My dream gun always changes right after I acquire it... Currently it is a Marlin 1895 GBL set up to be a tactical rifle with white light, T1, sling, and ammo in a cuff on the stock. Otherwise, the Zorg Industries ZF-1 is at the top of my list: With the M41A Pulse Rifle a close second:

Yes, it is an RMR07. The work cost about $300 to do the milling, cerakoting, and installation of all the parts including the cost of the suppressor height BUIS.the RMR was about $300 used, the slide was $200 and the barrel $200, I had the rest of the I ternals lying around. I am a big believer in what ronhonda says. You get what you pay for.

The Duracell and Energizer batteries are actually engineered to be optimal for camera type performance. Quickly charging a capacitor to be used as a flash or the millisecond use of a camera shutter. When used in long term draw electronics like a flashlight they lose power quickly and don't give off maximum lumens. They can work in a pinch but are not preferred. The Surefire and Streamlight are designed to work in flashlights and will give you the best performance. They will be suboptimal in cameras and other electronics. Make sure which ever 123 batteries you buy have a circuit breaker built in. There should be 2 small holes 180 degrees apart on the "+" terminal end of the battery. Although I am hearing that some knockoffs are copying the holes but not installing the breaker. Buyer beware!

http://info.publicintelligence.net/FBI-LithiumBatteries.pdf Careful guys. Not all 123s are created equal. Not only can they be dangerous, but if they are designed for a camera/capacitor they will not give you the runtime or the lumens you are expecting in your light. That said, I buy them at Lowes if I need them right now and from Surefire directly if I am stocking up.

I had this done to the Glock 35 I use in competitions and for HD. They (L&M Precision Gunworks) milled the slide to install the MRDS behind suppressor height iron sights. The irons make picking up the dot on initial presentation a little easier and if the MRDS craps out, I still have irons to use. Crappy pic but you get the idea. They can do the same with 1911s. I like it a lot and it is very precise, however, I am still much slower from the holster with the dot vs just irons, but faster and more accurate at distance and on target transitions with the dot. Need to practice with it more.

Shooting in general, specifically shooting under stress (think gunfight and to a lesser degree competitions) have 2 things in common with playing an instrument: Jack and $#!+. However, as the previous poster stated, practice your guitar all you want, then try to play hopping up icy stairs, on one foot, in the dark, naked, in front of strangers and tell me you will not make any mistakes playing that song you just practiced sitting comfortably in a chair, alone in your room. I know that's over the top but you get the idea I see what you are saying about "muscle memory" (the correct term is "procedural memory" vice "muscle memory" as your muscles do not have brains or the ability to retain information - the ability to repeat precise movement at an unconscious level due to correct repititions and proprioceptive motion/kinesthesiology along with spatial and situational awareness) and it does apply to certain things in gun handling and even gun fighting. Things like loading, mag changes, drawing from the holster, re-holstering, assorted administrative tasks. The problem with "instinctive fire" based on procedural memory is first you have to predict exactly the scenario you are going to get into in the future (and let's face it, if we could predict when we were going to get in a gunfight,we could just stay home). Then you have to practice it approx 10,000 - 30,000 times, perfectly I might add, to produce the memory ingram necessary to perform the motion on demand and under stress. 1 slight variation in the scenario and all the practice you did is for naught. I could teach you to hit a soda can at 25 yards without using your sights, consistently in about 2 hours. But as soon as I change the angle you are shooting at, the target, the distance you are shooting from, light conditions add any movement or a mag change, make it a moving target, etc... You are back to square one - the juice is simply not worth the squeeze. Or I could teach you to do the same thing with sights in the same amount of time and to shoot just as quickly and the skill level will diminish only slightly when adding variables. There are too many variables in a gunfight, or even a competition, to rely on "instinctive fire" in order to win. The actual art of hitting what you want, however, requires some type of sight picture every time you fire. Anything less and you are setting yourself up for failure. I can guarantee you that every competition shooter and every gunfighter I know get at least 1 sight picture every time they pull the trigger. Every. Single. Time. Carbines were designed so troops in the rear - cooks, officers, drivers, mechanics, (POGs) could have a weapon smaller and lighter than the issue line rifles, but pack more punch than a sidearm. They were most certainly designed to be used with sights. They were not designed to be bullet hoses or "fire and forget" weapons. In the past, carbines fired a lighter, less powerful round than their line rifle big brothers. That has changed with modern fighting arms. The M4A1 Carbine and the M16A4 shoot the same cartridge, with the M4A1 carbine having a barrel 4" shorter, is around 2 pounds lighter, and has an adjustable stock. The M4 is much handier for CQB and retains an effective range that is appropriate to our current battlefield for the most part. While an argument can be made that by its very design it lends itself to unsighted fire, it doesn't mean that it should be employed that way. As far as combat, not using sights is how we get all those "No Shit, I dumped a full clip [sic] into him and he didn't go down" Well you don't say... maybe that's because you missed him. I bet if you would have fired 7 rounds using your sights instead of 30 without, you would have put him down, and faster to boot. (The adage "You can't miss fast enough to catch up" and "A slow hit is better than a fast miss" apply here) I have seen proponents of unsighted fire miss their paper target at 5 yards with a rifle trying to prove their method is better. I am not saying that you can't miss at 5 yards using your sights either, because I know I have, but using my sights I knew right away that I missed and could fire a follow up shot to correct my mistake. In the real world, when you shoot someone you don't get the movie splatter. They bad guy doesn't "CLANG" and fall like a pepper popper, or ring like static steel. You can't see daylight through a badguy like paper or cardboard and go and count your hits. The only way you know you hit what you were aiming at is using your sights and tracking your target. Now, having said all of that, the use of a red dot optic (RDO) is as close as you can come to unsighted "instinctive fire" and still maintainthe advantages of using your sights - Because you can focus on your target and simply superimpose the red dot to see your point of aim. Easy Day! Finally, what I meant by "snake oil" is there are a lot of trainers out there that will be proponents of unsighted fire. They will take your money and teach you to hit a poker chip, standing still at 10 yards, in 1.5 seconds from the holster or low ready. They can teach 30 people to do this in a half day. It is fun, it makes you feel good, and gives you confidence. False confidence, because if your threat is not standing still, is not 10 yards away on a sunny day on a square range, you will miss. It does nothing to make you a decent shooter or gunfighter. Snake oil.

A magnified optic doesn't help you shoot any better. They only help you see better. If you are a poor shooter, the magnified optic will just let you see your misses better. If you are a decent shooter, the magnified optic may halp a little. In other words, the scope doesn't make the gun a tack driver. The shooter working with the gun does. As far as your penchant for "instinctive shooting" is what carbines were designed for, where did you get that idea? I have never heard that and have a hard time believing that is true. "Instinctive shooting" is black magic wrapped up in snake oil. Use your sights, you will get better hits that way. ETA: re-reading my post, it seemed as if I was telling the OP that he was a poor shooter. Not my intention. Edited to fix any comments that could have been taken the wrong way. Apologies.

After going to the site and checking out the product. all I can say is....

I was one of the 70 or so firearms/use of force instructors trained to be a Taser Instructor at the NJSP Academy in Sea Girt last December. Since then, I have taught the first three classes to certify Taser X2 end users in this State, starting last April, with at least one agency carrying it on the road full time since then, and a few carrying them only on certain kinds of calls. More than 12 municipal agencies in my county have had at least one person certified to carry the Taser X2 since last April, and most now have 4-6 officers trained. These devices are getting down to the road dogs pretty quickly. The X2 is a good device and I foresee it being a useful tool, if used correctly. NJ Use of Force Policy is very strict on this device, but not insurmountable, so time will tell how it will be deployed. The other device authorized by the AG's office is manufactured by a company called Carbon Arms and is similar to the X26. FYI: as per Taser, X-Rep system has been discontinued except for military purchases. Johnp, these types of devices, along with beanbag rounds, rubber bullets, etc... are termed "less-lethal" vice "non-lethal". Any time force has to be used the potential to cause death is there, that includes empty handed techniques, batons, OC/chemical, impact, mechanical, and enhanced mechanical. There is no "non" lethal force. There is just tools that are less likely to cause death, either by design or function. Sorry BLF. The AG's office expressly forbids voluntary exposure during training and certification. No rides for end users. Sorry cguiro, policies for the use of the device in the jails is still under development and I don't see that bridge getting crossed for a while yet. Yes blksheep, it is far from perfect but it is not as bad as it could be. I foresee it becoming more lax as the devices start being used correctly, and the results showing Officer and offender injuries decreasing.

4th over all in Tactical Optics for my first match. I will take it Can someone explain how to read the score sheets and what they base the ranking on? Pure Time, Number of points? And how do the penalties effect the scoring? Thanks and Congrats to all of the winners!