W2 steel?

[palmtree 7]

Was curious if anyone has experience with this steel. Been reading up on it and seems to be a lack of info on it. From what i gather its a simple tool steel that it tuff and holds edge well but needs a lil tlc or it will rust. I guess my question would be how do you like it compared to other steels and how easy does it rust?

[twong11219 0]

I haven't used W2 before, but I have an EDC that's A2 steel. You do need to watch out for rust. In the early stages for me, rust can develop quite easily if you don't wipe it down after use. Eventually it developed a slight patina, and once that happened, the issues of rust subdued quite a bit. Sharpening A2 is fairly easy to do even with a 59-62 Rockwell. The lower chromium content adds to it's ease of sharpening. Edge holding is GREAT!

 

There are plenty of steel out there that will preform just as well. Some with less TLC than others. The popular steel out there is S30V. Good starting point but sharpening is a bit harder to do if you aren't familiar with it. M390, EL-Max and CTS-XHP are also very nice steel. They're recipes are quite similar. All these I've mentioned are powdered steel.

 

I know this comment wasn't about W2, but I hope it provides some comparable knowledge to using carbon steel. I think W2 is an oil hardening tool steel so it should be quite durable. I've only seen W2s on larger fixed blade knives. Not so often in folders.

[palmtree 7]

Thanks for the reply. It seems like a pretty durable steel and like you said easy to sharpen. I guess the fact that it rust so easily turns me off a bit. I do believe you are correct about it being a oil hardening steel. Idealy though i wouldnt want to worry about a knife rusting if it was used on a camping trip or stored in a sheath for a bit of time.

[twong11219 0]

You're welcome. Just checked on some info and it's water quenched. Easier for the knife maker. No big deal. This steel is definitely used for larger edged knives where durability and forgiveness is key. Less expensive too peer square inch. The powdered steel is quite expensive and hard to work with for the knife maker.

[raz-0 1,259]

Thanks for the reply. It seems like a pretty durable steel and like you said easy to sharpen. I guess the fact that it rust so easily turns me off a bit. I do believe you are correct about it being a oil hardening steel. Idealy though i wouldnt want to worry about a knife rusting if it was used on a camping trip or stored in a sheath for a bit of time.

 

 

W2 can be oil quenched depending on the size of the piece. The manufacturer of the steel recommends brine quenching.  It in theory rusts easier then D2 tool steel. AS far as I can tell. It is getting to be hard to come by, and as far as I can tell it's main desirable property is having a pretty flexible heat treat process while still being able to get pretty hard and be differentially heat treated. So it's liked by people who do actual blacksmithing as it is easier to work with. In terms of benefit to the customer, I don't see it offering much to the consumer. 

 

For comparison, depending on what carbon content the specific lot being worked with actually has, it basically like 1095 but can get a teensy bit harder, and is more brittle. 

[twong11219 0]

Also to add, the knife maker that made my A2 folder says it's a utilitarian tool. Meant for hard work and not to look pretty. Rust resistance it's not at the top of his priorities.

[palmtree 7]

I like the idea of it meant to be a tool. Hardcore, robust and reliable is what im looking for. Not looking for a collectors piece. Just concerned of rust and pitting. Im looking at some knives by liontribe right now. The designs look amazing and they are not super expensive for custom/ semi custom knives. They are custom so i could probably get one in a different steel but wanted to see what the concensus was on w2 since must of the ones ive seen completed are made of it.

[twong11219 0]

If you have any intent of using it while off shore fishing, watch out for the salt water. I was using a Spyderco as a shovel on the beach. Don't ask. Lol! To my surprise, orange spots and pitting all over. It was an old Endura in AUS-8 stainless steel. Strange thing was, you can keep the blade wet, and nothing would happen. Once the sea water starts drying, POW. Spots. Run straight to the faucet and start rinsing away. That's when I learned that stainless is not stainless. Here's a tip if you do start getting a little rusty. Wet a wine cork and dip it into some Barkeeper's Friend. It's a cleaning powder for stainless pots and pans. Works great. Keep it fairly dry and wipe off when done. The wet cork it's just the medium to scrub the powder on the blade accurately without catching the edge and dulling it. Gives that nice brushed satin finish.