S&W Model 10 VS Ruger GP 100

[gfl216 226]

If you could only have Model 10 or a GP 100, which would you choose?

[GRIZ 3,369]

I would pick the GP only because it has the option of shooting magnums. You can most likely find a used Model 10 for a lot less. It depends on what your needs and budget is. I could live with a Model 10.

[302w 83]

Unless you are dead set on 357....Model 10 (or 64, same thing in stainless) hands down. 

 

I'm not going to beat a dead horse, but S&W makes a fine revolver. Model 10/64's can be had for cheap on LEO trade ins all day and you can get a nice prelock as well. I'll also take a forged handgun over a chunky investment cast block any day.

 

I think it is silly that so many people demand 357s... I initially wanted one, but there isn't much of a point. Most shooting is done with 38s, and I would rather have a 38 in a HD situation especially at night. 

[illy 1]

Disclaimer: I own both.

 

If only one, the GP for sure.

I agree that .38/+p is usually good enough, and preferable for some applications, but why limit yourself if you don't have to?

 

As for investment casting, if the implication is that the Ruger is somehow weaker/less durable because of it, that might be the first time that's ever been alleged. If anything, Ruger revolvers are known for their strength.

 

Also, I actually enjoy shooting .357s at the range and if I ever needed to take an animal with a handgun, I'd feel better about having the magnum.

 

That said, I don't think you'll regret buying either.

So go with the one you like best.

[CommonSense 0]

Believe me, I've tried, but I just can't bond with Ruger revolver triggers. I'll take any Smith over any Ruger, any day. BTW, I've been shooting for over 40 years.

[GRIZ 3,369]

A word on the casting being it has been brought up. Ruger undoubtedly uses nodular casting methodss. Nodular casting is adding materials to the molten metal which disperse the stress lines in the item when the metal cools. Forged is stronger but not by much. Most car engines have used nodular cast crankshafts for at least 40 years. There is no room to add metal in a cramkshaft but Ruger does it to their guns. I would hazard a guess this makes them at least as strong if not stronger than a comparable sized S&W.

 

I also have been shooting for over 40 years and have liked Ruger DA revolvers since I bought a Security Six in 1976. I also own a few Model 10s.

[iCARRY 0]

How about one of those special model 10s that shoot 357?

[GRIZ 3,369]

How about one of those special model 10s that shoot 357?

Not a special Model 10 but its a Model 13 (65 in stainless). They are good guns also but won't stand up to a steady diet of full magnums just like any other K frame S&W. The GP100 is a lot stronger than the K frame. The Ruger 6 series, although the same size as a K frame, is also stroner to my experience.

[iCARRY 0]

Griz, correct me if I am wrong, but didn't they start out as 10-6 originally?

[GRIZ 3,369]

Griz, correct me if I am wrong, but didn't they start out as 10-6 originally?

 

You're right. I stand corrected.  S&W made the 10-6 in 357 for the NYSP about 1973.  They made about 3000 of these, about half of them going to NYSP.  IIRC these were marked 10-6 on the frame and 357 on the barrel.  After the initial 3000, they catalogued it as the Model 13 and eventually in stainless as the Model 65.  If you had one on these it would be a rare bird as far as Model 10s go and worth substantially more to a collector.  Another not so common M10/64 is the 64 pencil barrel as they were only made the first year (1972) and all after with the heavy barrel.  One exception to that is the 2" M64 which was made for several years.  You don't see these often but when you do they are going for a little more than the more common 4" and 3" HB.