GRIZ

Using stones to remove material not files is usually more appropriate. Much slower yes but more appropriate.

I've separated brass by headstamp for years. I've read tests by reliable sources that indicate it doesn't make a difference for most uses. I still do it anyway for appearance sake if nothing else.

Does this have the triangle or round hammer?

I've even seen guns that worked fine with a broken ejector (S&W gen 3).

I've never found limp wristing to be an issue with metal frame handguns. Have you looked at the ejector? I've seen many guns that would run most of the time with a broken ejector. Pull up a photo of your ejector and compare it with yours.

You can get a basic reloading kit with a single stage press, the book "ABCs of Reloading", and a reloading manual (I like the the Lyman) for under $200. Start with the ABCs book which is about $20. Add about $100 for powder, primers, and bullets. Don't go out and buy a bunch of stuff for a couple of reasons: 1. You may find out reloading is not for you. Then you'd be stuck with a bunch of stuff you'd have to sell at a loss. 2. You can roll your own ammo that is as good or better than factory ammo with what I listed above. Get yourself to that stage and then decide what else you need. Many will advise starting with a Dillon or some other progressive press. I think that's poor advice. A Dillon is good if you need to crank out a quantity of ammo. You will learn more about reloading using a single stage. Everyone I know who loads precision rifle ammo for competition uses a single stage.

Notice he says at the end he wanted to go to Alaska and Hawaii but "... was not allowed because his staff couldn't justify it". That's because Alaska has voted only once for a Democrat and Hawaii was already in the bag.

If all police departments could provide similar service most people wouldn't complain.

There are some people who will tell you I was in the Army on June 6, 1944. Not so! I found out about them from my uncle who had landed in Normandy on June 7, 1944. The Allies had air superiority (actually just about air supremacy) during the Normandy landings. There were only about 100 German fighters in France as most had been moved back to Germany to deal with the Allied bombing campaign. IIRC the only Luftwaffe presence overy the Normandy beaches was built Major "Pips" Priller who did one strafing run on the beaches with his wingman and returned to their airfield. Many of these aircraft kept their "invasion stripes" right up to the end of the war in Europe. I got to catch a couple of rides in C47s when I was in Vietnam.

When I take a new shooter to the range the first time they shoot anything more than a 22 I have them do the "Barney Fife Drill". Load one round and fire. See how they control the firearm and handle the recoil.

They were called "invasion stripes" used to identify Allied aircraft during the Invasion of Normandy. Approval to do so came just weeks before the invasion. Lots of planes to paint them on in a short time. The Invasion of Sicily resulted in a lot of Allied planes shot down by friendly fire. Many paratroopers were lost after their planes were shot down. Something bigger than the national insignia was needed to ID aircraft. Someone came up with the idea of invasion stripes. It worked.

Some of this thread reminds me of a guy I knew back in the 70s. He was a new shooter and was interested in hunting. He didn't want to be underhanded so his first rifle was a 460 Weatherby. He had more money than common sense. I figured it couldn't be any worse than the Boys Anti-Tank rifle I had fired a couple rounds through and took the first shots out of his new rifle. Showed him it wasn't going to hurt him...too much.

I've fired steel case Wolf in bolt guns. It's not as accurate but can do the job. Steel case shoots maybe 2 minutes of angle and decent brass case NATO spec ammo shoots about half that. Not something I'd use for match but worthy of consideration. You can get steel case for about 30 cents a round. Use steel to get on paper and play, use bether brass case to refine your zero and use for serious social purposes.

Good point I overlooked Jack!

There was no legal transfer of the firearms to you unless proper paperwork was done in NJ. The guns are part of your uncle's estate. AFAIK there is no need for an executor to have a FID to take possession of the firearms so they can be disposed of according to the will. That could mean dIstributing to heirs and/or selling them for cash to be distributed. If you refuse to turn them over to the executor that's pretty much like theft. There's no bsing anyone as the executor knows you have them. Whether the executors history of mental issues disqualifies them from discharging their duties in regards to the firearms is not for you to decide. I understand your concern. IANAL but IMO a lawyer will probably tell you to just turn the firearms over to the executor.