Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
maintenanceguy

Drilling and Tapping Shotgun Barrel for Scope Mount

Recommended Posts

I want to mount a scope base on a 20ga shotgun.  I ordered the base and was planning to silver solder it to the barrel.  The base came today and it's aluminum - so no silver soldering. 

 

Plan B is to drill and tap the barrel but I suspect I don't have enough metal to do this safely.   I'm hoping somebody knows the real formula or rule about how much chamber wall must be left undisturbed.

 

The thickness of the chamber wall - right where I hope to drill 3 holes is .143" thick.  The screws are 6-48.  Ideally, I'd like to have a thread depth at least the same as the thread width of .135".  This leaves only .008" chamber wall which seems way to thin.  I'd even need to use an end mill instead of a drill bit to get a flat bottom hole and I'm not sure a bottoming tap would actually reach all the way to the bottom of that flat bottom hole.

 

But...then again.  I'm not reducing the chamber except for three tiny spots and those spots are reinforced by the machine screw so maybe I'm okay.

 

Anybody know the "real" rule about this?  And if it's not a go, is there some option other than silver solder to stick an aluminum base to a steel barrel?

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Unless the barrel is rifled, I don't see the merit or need for a scope unless your eyes are going. (I know all about this problem.) Soldering bases to the barrel are a better idea than drilling and tapping an already thin tube. 

 

Better: Drill and tap the receiver (side mount or go top mount if there is enough metal.) That's how every proper slug gun was set up in the 70's when slugs were allowed for smoothbores here. Remember that each time you remove the barrel for cleaning you may lose zero, depending on the fit of barrel to receiver and lockdown nut. (There's info out on Shotgunworld for shimming receivers with aluminum or brass if you do this.) That's why cantilever mounts are so in vogue for mounting scopes today.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.



  • olight.jpg

    Use Promo Code "NJGF10" for 10% Off Regular Items

  • Supporting Vendors

  • Latest Topics

  • Posts

    • The  12-1 compression ratio L88 is long gone. This is GM's updated version. it might be  pump gas 10-1 engine The L88 was a aluminum head  cast iron block engine with a nasty solid lifter cam. the  ZL1 was a all aluminum  12 or 13-1 compression ratio engine with the best forged internal parts at the time and had a even nastier solid lifter cam 
    • I like my regular carry holster.  OWB leather with belt slots.  I've been carrying for over a year and it was comfortable and I hardly even noticed it.  I carry (usually) a Ruger LCP .380 - light, convenient, tiny. But...today I ended up taking it off an leaving it home after a few hours. I cut down a big maple tree a few days ago and I spent 3/4 of today loading and unloading firewood into the back of my truck and a trailer.  It was a warm day, I was dirty, tired, sweaty, and my holster was rubbing against my side.  The leather and exposed metal snap was no longer comfortable. I'm thinking about adding a layer of something to that part of the holster to soften the contact.  Anything insulating will make it worse.  I don't want a sweaty, hotter holster against my skin.  I'm imagining something thin, breathable, that won't absorb sweat, and softer than leather, metal snaps, and rivets.   But I have no idea what would work. I'm hoping somebody else has already figured this out and I can just do what they did. Any suggestions appreciated.
    • Check the primers on the ammo you didn't shoot yet. Are they fully seated? If the primer is not just below flush with the back of the case, the first hit can seat it better then the second hit ignites it. 
    • And, charging your car at home? We've got you covered! California braces for new electric plan: Make more, pay more | Fox Business
    • I'm thinking L88? Or is my memory faulty?
×
×
  • Create New...