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Trying to solve No Start Issue

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Figure I would do a current entry....

I have been dealing with a No Start, No Crank Issue at times with the car. Seems to happen after longer drives, obviously with everything getting heat soaked under hood....

I would go to leave a Cruise Night and I would get NOTHING...... when it happened last year 2-3 times, there was not even a click from the starter. I already had a Powermaster Mini Starter, but I bit the bullet and bought a new one, and sent the old one back to Powermaster to have it rebuilt. 

Fast forward to this year...... thinking I had the problem solved. I went to a cruise night in Flemington 2 weeks ago.... 90+ min drive. Got there, started to rain.....  went to leave after about an hour and No Start, No Crank....... crap.  After a few minutes like always, it cranked fine and I headed home. Pulled into the garage, turned it off and tried to restart..... Click...... crap.

Frustrated, I headed into the house and would deal with it in the morning. Well, as usual, it started fine in the morning, but I check battery voltage.... 13.2v sitting, and only dropped to 10.5v while cranking, not bad for a 15+-year-old Optima Battery. So I felt battery was not the issue. I highly doubt the new starter was an issue. It was time to look in other directions..... wiring and grounds...

Well, I removed the positive cable that runs from Battery to Starter..... this was a nice fancy Steel Braided 4ga battery cable. Well, it looked like hell now, with plenty of green corrosion coming through the steel braiding, plus I found upon searching..... 4ga wire might be good for today cars, but will not carry enough amps for older muscle cars with larger engines. 

So instead of trying to find larger gauge battery cables the correct length..... Time to learn another skill. So I went ahead and made up my own battery cable. and then made up an additional ground cable.

The new cable is very high grade and is 2ga. 

Just got done installing it...... Now, lets hope for the best....

Cables 1.JPG

Cables 2.JPG

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Make sure you clean the terminals on the battery and the cable ends every year as well - they will oxidize and even though you have a tight connection, it still acts like a dead battery.  I've seen this numerous times, especially with cars that sit and have chargers on them. 


Also - if it's the GTO, run a ground from the starter to the battery directly (or to the ground post you use on the block/frame) as well.   Pontiacs are notorious for heat soak and starter ground issues.

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It ended up being the Taylor Battery Cut-Off switch that I had wired into the Neg Battery Cable. What I would consider a high quality product for drag racers.... end up being a POS....

Anywhere from 5 to 10 ohms of resistance through the switch .....  ugh...

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I use the 4 terminal Moroso switch on both of my race cars and 00 welding wire. No problem cranking either car, even with 15:0 compression! ;)

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2 hours ago, M4BGRINGO said:

I use the 4 terminal Moroso switch on both of my race cars and 00 welding wire. No problem cranking either car, even with 15:0 compression! ;)

Well..... If I feel like taking a chance on another aftermarket part.... I will look into it....

Very disappointed in the Taylor switch.... 

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Nah..... just gonna leave it be...... Probably replace 50yr old dash harness this winter, and my worries will cease anyway...


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