Pizza Bob

Never dealt with them, but I love the "Non-paying customers" part of their website (under "About Us"). Also like the used optics section - some real high-end bargains to be had there. Adios, Pizza Bob

I am a Bushnell fan too, I have a few lower line banners on my .22's they are clear and hold good zero. Probably will go for one when I get a .308, just wish they made a mil-dot version. I have two Bushnells - the 4200 Elite Tactical and an unbranded Bushnell built to 3200 standards but only 3X magnification (8-24 power) rather than 4x. Both are Mildot reticles. The 4200 is a 30mm tube 6-24x50mm with side focus. Mildot values are true at 12x. Again, PM me if you are interested in the source. Adios, Pizza Bob

No, it would have to be ordered. Mine took about three weeks. I think RRA is pretty well caught-up, so I doubt that your wait would be more than 3 or 4 weeks. I ordered mine with the match trigger and the Hogue grip - so may have been built to order. Adios, Pizza Bob

Just got an RRA lower with the match trigger from Chris at Advanced Arms... http://www.advancedarms.com/ This was my second RRA purchase from Chris and he gives great service. He is RRA direct. If you are getting a rifle, you can go pick it up in person - he's within driving distance. If just a lower he'll arrange shipping to your FFL and quote you an out the door price. Not sure where you are, but my FFL is just outside Allentown, NJ, so Chris already has his FFL on file - if it is convenient for you, you can have it shipped there. Transfer is $15 + $15 NICS + tax = $32.10. I'll be glad to help you with more info if this is the way you want to go. Adios, Pizza Bob

Sweet :clap:

I used a Midwest Industries folding front sight, mounted on the gas block. That can be problematic with a short barrel and a long scope, but you should be fine with your 20" barrel. I went with MI just because it was available from RRA with the gun. It is very similar to a Troy - both being the HK design with the round wings. The LaRue riser was spendy, but worth it in my opinion. It allowed me to use whatever height ring I wanted - whereas with a riser with built-in rings you lose that option. PM me and I'll give a good source for the rings. The riser, I think, can only be had at LaRue. Adios, Pizza Bob

Chris: You saw my Varmint last week. I used a Troy rear sight because the are the lowest (when folded down) of any out there, and made the task of clearing the ocular lens of the scope easy. The scope was mounted on a LaRue 5/8" QD riser - which cleared the rear sight and makes for easy on/off without loss of zero. The scope is mounted to the riser using TPS aluminum rings - which are the nutz! They are such a precision fit that there is no need to lap them and you can actually tighten down one side completely and then the other, with no scope rotation. They are available in three heights, so once you figure what scope you're using, you'll be able to get the scope as close to bore centerline as possible and still clear your sight. Adios, Pizza Bob Here's a picture (different scope than what you saw, but same mount as described)...

Certificate of Eligibility is here... http://www.njsp.org/info/pdf/firearms/sp-634.pdf Make two copies - one for you, one for the dealer. HTH Adios, Pizza Bob

Re: Hunting with a rifle NJ may be bad, but it's not like we are confined within the state's borders. You can hunt with a rifle right next door in PA (with the exception of SE PA - which is a shotgun only region due to population density). I haven't hunted in a long time, but a PA non-resident license isn't that expensive. And you used to able to buy a three-day non-resident license that was good for small game and varmints IIRC, but not big game. Just sayin that your options are open and you can put that rifle to use next whitetail season in PA. Adios, Pizza Bob

Not a bad thought, but the fact that the problem is as described, already indicates that there is most likely a problem with an out of true mount system. Unless the the receiver is drilled way out of spec, it may be impossible to see by just using a straight edge aligned with the holes in the receiver. However, the point is it may not be the mount, but the scope. According to Chad, the scope seems to adjust OK, it just ran out of windage - thus all the solutions proposed to this point. Adios, Pizza Bob

That's a Leupold base, which would also require you to purchase Leupold rings - and to do things properly, the rings should be lapped. That is one way to go, but more $$$ and work than is needed. Here is what I was talking about... http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings1.html#2 scroll down and you'll see the offset inserts - which allow you to offset the scope the designated amount, left/right or up/down depending on how they are inserted in the rings. You can use one just in the front or rear for a little offset, or offset one way in the rear and the other in the front for a large adjustment. The inserts also come with varying degrees of offset. You need to bottom out the windage adjustment and then turn it completely in the opposite direction until it bottoms out there - keeping track of the number of clicks from one extreme to the other - and then based on the adjustment interval (1/8 MOA, 1/4 MOA) calculate your total windage adjustment available within the scope. Then center it (turn it back half the total clicks) so you have equal windage adjustment left & right. We'll go into the rest of it once you secure the rings. Write down how far left you were with the scope bottomed out and then we should be able to calculate (uh oh, geometry and probably some trig) what offset would work best. You may want to take this off the board for more info, you have my e-mail. Up to this point it may have been helpful to others, but beyond this we are into specifics about your set-up. Up to you. Adios, Pizza Bob

Maks: I know people that swear by Nikon scopes. What puts me off Nikons is Natchez Shooter's Supply catalogs. Every issue they have a ton of refurb'd Nikons. Tells me one of two things - either they are the only scope company the refurb's their returns and then resells them - which means other companies may have an equal amount of returns, but choose not to resell. Or, Nikon has more than other companies and that fact makes it worthwhile to refurb. Me, I'd rather err on the side of caution. That Bushnell 4200 Elite Tactical that was on my Howa, was only slightly more than $500, IIRC. I'll be glad to share the source with you, but not sure how kosher it would be on an open forum, when we have sponsors that sell scopes. I like Leupold, Bushnell and Weaver, the only exception I've made to those three is a Sightron HBR 6x w/AO. Definitely buy good glass. Buy quality and only cry once. Adios, Pizza Bob

Chad: IIRC, the rings come with zero offset inserts. The offset inserts have to be ordered separately - negligible cost. Adios, Pizza Bob

It doesn't look like it. Leupold has some windage adjustability in the rear mount - which is what Mark was alluding to, but that would require new rings and bases. My friend swears by the Burris rings with the inserts. I'm not personally familiar with them, but the only issue I see is whether they make them to mate with your Weaver bases, thus saving the expense of new bases also. The other plus of using the rings with the inserts is that it precludes lapping the rings. Adios, Bob

Watch it there Jeremy. If the 1987 in your screen name is your DOB, then my Bulldog Pug is older (and probably more troublefree) than you Adios, Pizza Bob

Isn't this a moot point if you are converting the impingment system to a piston system? Don't the conversions come with a bolt carrier specific to the conversion? In impingement systems the bolt key is usually a separate piece attached and staked to the carrier. In piston systems the key and carrier are usually monolithic. :?: Adios, Pizza Bob

Chad: If, as Mark suggests, you have no adjustability in your scope base, I'd suggest new Burris "Z" rings. These rings are availabe with offset inserts to add or compensate for windage and elevation. HTH. Adios, Pizza Bob

Had a great time yesterday. Nice to see some of you guys again, and to meet some new folks. Aside from being a bit nippy (and windy) we all had a lot of fun. Chad, you're pretty sneaky with that candid camera - but at least now I have proof for my GF of where I really was yesterday afternoon (j/k). Chad, I sent you a PM - but as I explained to Maks yesterday, there is something screwy about my PM function. Let me know if you didn't get it (incoming seems to work fine). Adios, Pizza Bob

Here's my .17 Hummer Adios, Pizza Bob

I have come across several threads/posts talking about fingerprinting for your FPID card, here in NJ. The concensus of those posts was that NJ is now outsourcing all of its fingerprinting. The horror stories about long lead times for appointments to get fingerprinted are already appearing. While it may be true that some municipalities are outsourcing their fingerprinting, some are still doing their own. After living together for 23 years, and showing 0 interest in firearms, my GF announced that she wants a gun (osmosis from living with me?) - so we start the hoop jumping process. Last night we went to our local PD to turn in her documents, money and to get her fingerprinted. Our PD does have computerized fingerprinting, but they are not sent to the NJSP electronically. The fingerprint program simply prints a hardcopy on a standard fingerprint card and it is mailed to the NJSP (right down the road). So I'm at a loss as to why some towns are outsourcing and others are not. After reading some of the experiences, I feel lucky that we live in one that is still doing its own. I'd like to hear from recent applicants (FPID, or if you needed to be printed for PPP's) about whether it was done locally or outsourced. Adios, Pizza Bob

PM outbound to you

You may also want to try thinner grips on your P226. The Sig aluminum grips are supposedly thinner than even the OE plastic ones. Not sure that is true, but they are definitiely a different profile, making them friendlier to small hands. Too bad we're not closer - I have both a 239 and a 226 w/aluminum grips. If you care to make the trek, your welcome to come to my house and try them both. Figure if your a NJGF member you must be trustworthy - right guys? Adios, Pizza Bob

I'd think about getting the P229 in .357 Sig. An excellent defensive caliber, since you intend to carry it. You can get a .40 S&W barrel (it's a drop-in - no fitting needed) and use the .40 for practice at the range. I suggest buying it as a .357 so that your sights are regulated for POA = POI. When you switch to the .40 barrel it should be a higher POI, so you would use a six o'clock hold. Just my $.02 worth. Adios, Pizza Bob PS: I have a 229 in .357 Sig. I have the .40 barrel, but pretty much leave it as a .357 PB

Join the club. A victim of Obamanomics take over of Government Motors. I was a product trainer for Buick/Pontiac/GMC. I have 35 years in the automotive/commercial vehicle industry - 11 of those as a trainer (10 in med duty trucks / 1 with GM). Also did some slaes engineering for the medium duty manufacturer. Many transferable skills. Resume available upon request. Thanks for listening. Adios, Pizza Bob

Not sure that the issue is the steel cases, as much as it is the coating applied to them. I have read (no first-hand experience) of chambers getting gummed-up with melted laquer when shooting extended strings (hot chamber/barrel). That was one of the reasons Wolf switched from laquer to some type of polymer that was more heat resistant. Domestic manufacturerers are also using steel cased ammo. Hornady makes practice ammo for law enforcement using steel cases. You'll probably hear the argument about wearing out your extractor because of the steel on steel issue. I would wager that your barrel will be shot out long before your extractor gets worn to the non-functional point. All that being said, I choose not to use it in my AR's. However, If I owned an AK platform, I wouldn't hesitate - that's what they were designed to be used with. You'll just have to decide what's right for you. Adios, Pizza Bob