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      NJGF's Gun Range & Store Database   05/23/2017

      Excited about launching a new feature, our very own member- driven range and store database.  Read the announcement and watch the video here... www.njgunforums.com/forum/index.php?/topic/86658-njgfs-gun-store-range-database/

Pizza Bob

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Pizza Bob last won the day on September 15 2016

Pizza Bob had the most liked content!

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About Pizza Bob

  • Rank
    S&W Revolver Fanboy
  • Birthday 03/23/1951

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  • Gender
  • Location:
    Central/West NJ - Mercer County
  • Interests
    Cars, pool, Southwestern pottery
  • Home Range
    EFGA or wherever someone will guest me in

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  1. Magnets
  2. I tend to favor N-Frame Smith & Wesson revolvers. In the last 3 months I've added two to my collection and they pretty much span the normal barrel length range offered. First was this Model 25-14. This is chambered in .45 ACP/AR and sports a 3" barrel. It is one of 250 made for Lew Horton (a distributor)... I picked up this next gun last night. Reflecting on what I already had, I realized that I had no Model 27's and also that I had no N-frames with an 8 3/8" barrel. I remedied both situations by purchasing this Model 27-2. It was the last iteration to have a pinned barrel and recessed chambers. It came complete as you see it - presentation case, tools and documents... I don't have any .41 Mag N-frames (Models 57 & 58) and really have no desire to have one. As I've gotten older I've become recoil averse and I have nothing else chambered in that caliber, so don't see the need to add it. What might interest me would be an original Model 520 .357 Mag. The only other fixed sight N-frame, besides the Model 58 (and few distributor specials - There was a fixed sight Model 29). Adios, Pizza Bob
  3. My experience has been a little different. All holsters, regardless of material, will create wear spots on your gun's finish. Also you may want to consider different materials for different styles of holsters. I am not one to condemn Kydex as quickly as the others. I am a (mediocre) competition shooter and favor Kydex for that purpose. Positive snick/snick draw and reholstering. Great retention that is adjustable with a screw. One of my guns is a 586, which is blued. That gun has seen thousands of rounds and hundreds of draws and reholsterings, yet the finish is still probably 90%+. Because the Kydex holsters usually retain the gun by the fit at the trigger guard, that is the only spot where there is any wear. Leather holsters tend to mold themselves to the gun, over time. While that makes for a very comfortable carry it also puts more of the holster in contact with your gun's finish, so wear spots could show up anywhere, dependent on the fit. You will almost always get wear at the muzzle, and if it's a revolver, the leading edge of the cylinder, but could be many other places too. With the positive shape retention of Kydex, that doesn't happen. For years it was thought that lined holsters were the bees-knees when it came to finish protection. Not necessarily the case. A smooth lining - either top-grain or maybe the chamois previously mentioned, might be OK. But many holster makers have used suede in the past. The surface of suede, and some other linings, tends to trap debris - soot (which is a particulate), unburned powder residue, dust, and then, because of the close fit to the gun, grind these abrasives into the finish. There are a lot of variables in this scenario: How often is the gun shot, drawn, cleaned, what is the environment in which the gun/holster combo lives, etc. So there is no correct answer as to what holster creates the least wear on your guns finish. You really should concentrate on the purpose of the holster and select the holster, regardless of material, that best fills that need. I use an unlined leather, IWB for concealed carry (usually Sparks VM II) and Kydex for my competition needs (usually Blade Tech). Good luck with your quest - as GRIZ pointed out, you will end up with a box full of holsters. Adios, Pizza Bob
  4. Is that my que? Joe - welcome and there is a PM coming to you. Adios, Pizza Bob
  5. It's a varmint weight barrel
  6. I have heard them likened to an updated Remington 700. I love mine... 200 yards with one called flyer (with Fed 168 gr GMM) I think they are one of the best values out there. Adios, Pizza Bob
  7. Drez: Just curious - What range? Shongum is holding a USPSA match on Saturday. If his class is there, it must be on the indoor range. Looking at the weather, the USPSA match might get rained out. Adios, Pizza Bob
  8. The point is that I shouldn't have to either joln FB or seek out someone that is a member. Entities that think everyone belongs to FB forget they may alienate the remainder of us. I think social media is the scourge of civilization. Forums are as far as I go. Sorry. Adios, Pizza Bob
  9. So in order to find out the details you have to join Facebook??? Not even for the NRA. Sorry. Adios, Pizza Bob
  10. It is a Z-frame, unique to the Governor. Essentially an N-frame with an elongated cylinder window and a K/L round butt grip. Adios, Pizza Bob
  11. My 2.75" revolver - 25 oz. of .45 ACP goodness... S&W 325 PD - good luck finding one. Adios, Pizza Bob
  12. And this would have prevented that tragedy how???
  13. I like TPS rings - a nice mid-priced item available from multiple sources. Claim to be within .002" of concentric, precluding the need to lap the rings. Adios, Pizza Bob
  14. OP - There are other things to consider also.As Bully pointed out, objective lens diameter and scope tube diameter need to be considered. Along with tube diameter, you have to consider mounts and rings. Generally the larger the tube diameter, the more expensive the rings and smaller the selection, trending toward higher end pieces. Ring height needs to be considered to insure you clear any mounts, rails, iron sights or the barrel itself. This can get tricky because you want to have the scope center line mounted as close to the bore center line as possible. Also, if you intend to shoot out to 1000 yards - or even just 500, you may need a base with some elevation built in. Lastly, you need to decide whether you want a first focal plane reticle (FFP) or a second focal plane reticle (SFP). The main difference between them is that an SFP reticle will appear to be the same size regardless of magnification. With an FFP reticle, the size of the reticle will appear to change as the scope’s magnification is changed. The SFP scopes are the most common, and generally less expensive with a greater variety of scopes to choose from. The FFP scopes are favored by long distance/precision shooters, but again are generally confined to the higher end scopes. Good luck. Adios, Pizza Bob
  15. While he specifies Garands and M1A's he'll take on 03A3's also... http://www.radomski.us/njhp/major.htm Adios, Pizza Bob