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TacGuy911

Anyone own the V-Line In wall "cloest" safe?

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I am looking for a safe for my rifles, however I am looking for in-wall style for the rifles.. I can't really find much other then the V-line closet vault... Kind of priced high for what it is but its what I am looking for.. Just wanted to see if anyone has any first hand experience with it or has something similar.. Figured I would do something like this until I am ready to do a little construction and make a nice "hidden" room for the guns...

 

This is the v-line safe I am looking at...

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I'm sure you agree that's not a vault or even a safe, but a locking gun cabinet. I don't believe that V-line is much more robust than the Stack-on version, which is under $100.

 

While I have a vault for my collection, I have something similar in our master bedroom to hold a shotgun, two pistols, and my go-to revolver loaded and ready plus additional ammo. However, I made it myself because I wanted something easy to get into for me, but not a 2-second pry for a thief. Any friends that can weld or do fabrication work?

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I'm sure you agree that's not a vault or even a safe, but a locking gun cabinet. I don't believe that V-line is much more robust than the Stack-on version, which is under $100.

 

While I have a vault for my collection, I have something similar in our master bedroom to hold a shotgun, two pistols, and my go-to revolver loaded and ready plus additional ammo. However, I made it myself because I wanted something easy to get into for me, but not a 2-second pry for a thief. Any friends that can weld or do fabrication work?

 

I agree.. It does not "appear" to qualify as a safe or vault.. Just the terms they use to describe... I don't intend on having it out on display.. Figured I would it would hidden behind some kind of painting or decor.. I plan on eventually getting a whole "hidden" room for the guns and security setup but until then wanted something that I can put in to hold the rifles.. As it stands now, anything would be better then just having the locks on them and hiding them lol... And not a lot of places to throw a huge safe.. The setup is "supposed" to protect against simply being pryed open, but i am sure with enough force it will get opened.. It also has the 3 locking mechanisms.. Was hoping to find a place that carries it in stock so I can check it out but so far no good..

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I've seen and handled it in-person when I was deciding. The upper and lower locks on the door can be pried with an 18" bar and no problem peeling up the lower corner of the door once done to pull down the long guns. The Stack-on with the bar throws is more more to pry as you must put a pretty decent buckle in the center of the door before it'll spring. Either can be busted with hand tools for zero noise. I'll see if I can dig up the name of the safe shop I took a look at them at and post back tomorrow. I ended up fabricating mine out of 8ga sheet with welded piano hinge and a standard S&G 3-pt mechanism and lock.

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I have two similar cabinets, one upstairs and one down, for quick access to a shotty. My were made by Homak and were bought online. They work well for what they are - cabinets. My purpose in getting them was to keep small fingers away from my go-to guns, nothing more. As others have said, a crowbar (or Sawzall) would make fast work of them if someone seriously wanted in. The photos make them look deeper than they really are. That's logical since they fit in a space created by a 2X4 frame.

 

I'm happy with mine for what they are.

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Yea.. mine was pretty much for the same.. Keep the gun out of the wrong hands.. Even when inside this they would still have their locks on but just an added measure.. The only good thing when comparing this to the Homak that is similar is that the vline sticks out from the wall 2 inches making the interior depth just under 5 inches.. Don't need much depth to stand a few rifles and figured I could also hang my duty and off duty gun in their..

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I guess it goes in between wall studs? In my house, I might have a hard time finding a spot where it would not interfere with horizontal runs of in-wall electric wiring.

 

I missed the correct bay the first time around. Had to patch the wallboard and move over one bay. I also had to knock out a horizontal 2X4(whatever they are called) they had in each bay.

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I have a question regarding the in-wall safes to those in the know. Actually considering the V-Line "closet" cabinet. I think the wall it will go into will be not an interior walls within my house, but a perimeter wall. Although there are going to be shingles, homewrap, and insulation protecting the safe from the outside, I am concerned with the effects of temperature changes and, as a result, condensation. Is this a valid concern for the installation, or something that can be easily addressed with an extra dessicant pack and maybe a shower-type membrane or something?

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I have a question regarding the in-wall safes to those in the know. Actually considering the V-Line "closet" cabinet. I think the wall it will go into will be not an interior walls within my house, but a perimeter wall. Although there are going to be shingles, homewrap, and insulation protecting the safe from the outside, I am concerned with the effects of temperature changes and, as a result, condensation. Is this a valid concern for the installation, or something that can be easily addressed with an extra desiccant pack and maybe a shower-type membrane or something?

 

First - I am not an expert. I do have the Homak in-wall closet in an interior wall. If the two brands are similar, I would be hesitant to install it in an exterior wall.Not only wold you be facing condensation but also increasing the opportunity for any stray moisture during heavy rain and wind conditions to gain access. I would imagine the space from which you remove insulation for the closet is going to act as a huge air duct, letting in cold air in the winter and hot in the summer. These things are far from airtight.

 

Just my $.02.

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Thanks for the thought, it makes total sense.. Although my plan was not to remove the insulation but to merely allow the safe to compress it. Based on my experience in installing in-wall speakers, this is possible. I wondered if swaddling the back of the safe in shower membrane or a similar watertight film might help to prevent the air moving through it, but it's probably indeed not worth the risk... Will look for an interior wall.

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I own, and recently installed the Stack-On version in my closet.

Fits 2 long-arms, and then a shelf or three (depending on length of long-arms).

 

Sturdy enough to stop would-be smash and grab type thiefs.

Won't stop someone with a crow-bar and 15-20 minutes of time.

 

But the primary "security feature" is the in-wall design.

After painting it the same color as my wall, and hiding it behind a rack of clothing, you would have no idea it is there.

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Thanks for the thought, it makes total sense.. Although my plan was not to remove the insulation but to merely allow the safe to compress it. Based on my experience in installing in-wall speakers, this is possible. I wondered if swaddling the back of the safe in shower membrane or a similar watertight film might help to prevent the air moving through it, but it's probably indeed not worth the risk... Will look for an interior wall.

 

I would really rethink using an exterior wall, even if you put a vapor barrier between the insulation and the in-wall safe there will be a temperature variation between the interior of the safe and interior temperature of the house I would think that would not be good for anything in it. Also compressing insulation isn't good, not sure of the R value differences between removing some insulation so it's not compressed vs compressed or even changing what kins of insulation. They do have a foam board type, but still an exterior wall really should be your last resort, and I sure wouldn't keep any guns in there that I cared about. I would even say you might be in a better situation but still as a last resort is to build out an area where you are not installing the safe as deep as you would normally. Just a few ideas to kick around.

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A quick report from the field -- I just had my own V-Line Secure Cabinet installed last week.

 

Originally, the studs were preventing me from installing the cabinet where I wanted it to be either in my or my wife's closet in our bedroom, but we're remodeling the bathroom that is separated by a wall from my closet. The opportunity presented itself -- I just asked the contractor to move the stud :)

 

The cabinet is really nice. While I must admit that it not stop a determined, well-equipped burglar, it suits my purposes just fine -- it will definitely stop a less-than equipped burglar, and will keep the guns away from the children. The locking mechanism is easy to operate, crisp, and 100% mechanical.

 

I ended up ordering it with a pegboard internal door surface, one full shelf, and one half shelf. For the handguns, I've foregone the expensive "gun caddy" options and just got some cheap, low-profile, neoprene-covered hooks from Lowe's. The cabinet does NOT sit flush against the wall, as you know -- it protrudes out about 2 inches. The extra inches definitely make a difference (wait a second...) and make it possible to, say, hang a couple of handguns on the door right in from of a rifle resting inside of the cabinet, which otherwise wouldn't be possible.

 

Thanks to all for earlier advice and comments in this thread!

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