Iron Sight Shooting with ARs

[vortex0178 3]

I've been spending some time learning to use the backup sights on my new AR while saving up for an Aimpoint H-1, but I have a few questions.

 

What size targets do you use at 50 yards and 100 yards? I'm using a 6" black circle with a 1.5" white center as my 50 yard target, but it was very hard to see at 100 yards. I prefer having targets I can make photocopies of (i.e. cheap) but it looks like a 100 yard target will be too big for standard paper - or at least, too big for one sheet.

 

With respect to trigger technique, should I use the tip/pad of the finger, or the "power crease" of the distal finger joint? I seem to get better groups with the power crease, but that might be because with my current set-up, positioning my hand this way gives a more ideal LOP vs. using the fingertip. My trigger pull weight is standard weight (just a regular PSA lower parts kit) and the pull tires out my finger after a while.

 

And lastly, what's considered a good group at 50 yards, and at 100 yards?

[njJoniGuy 2,131]

There's a crowd of us that shoot competition hi power with iron sights.

The 100 yd targets have a black (which is all you can see from the line) that is roughly 6" diameter

The 200 yd target black runs roughly 12" diameter

Likewise, 300 yd is 18" and 600 yd is 36" (These 2 distances are only fired prone)

100 and 200 are fired unsupported offhand (standing) and sitting (in addition to prone for short matches)

The 10 ring on the offhand and sitting targets is roughly 1/3 of the diameter of the black

It's even smaller on the prone targets.

 

Ideally, you want to be able to keep your group size to 1 minute of angle radius, or a 2" group at 100 yd

The inner half of the 10 ring is the X ring, and that's where matches are won!

 

Midway USA has some free downloadable targets on their site.

I like to use their Pistol target to play around on at 50 yd

http://www.midwayusa...stol_target.pdf

Just print it on 8.5x11 paper and go to town.

If you use a background of kraft paper (or an opened ShopRite paper bag) on the target board first, then staple the printed target to that, you can see your shots that stray off the 8.5x11

[njJoniGuy 2,131]

Here's the 100 yd Offhand & Sitting target (for 8.5x11 paper, center only)

http://www.munitions...etter/h300a.pdf

 

And the 100 yd Slow Prone target (again 8.5x11, center only)

http://www.munitions...etter/h300c.pdf

 

Print some out and have some fun at 100 yds with iron sights!

[High Exposure 5,664]

The answer to your question can be different based on what you want out of your firearm, and what kind of equipment you have.

 

I don't know what make/model you are shooting, but a rack grade mil-spec M4 (according to the TDP) and most Commercial AR-15 are designed to be accurate to 4 moa (Minutes of angle - A minute of angle is approximately 1" at 100 yards). So, if you are getting everything you can out of your rifle, expect around an 8" group at 200 yards, a 4" group at 100 yards, 2" at 50 yards, 1" at 25 yards, etc...

 

Your ammo selection can help or hurt here too as I have seen some ammo spec'd to be 10 moa accurate.

 

Now, It can be better than that and some rifles are inherently more accurate than mil-spec (my BCM 16" mid-length is a tack driver). But unless you bought an SPR type AR or an accurized/match rifle, 4" at 100 yards and 2" at 50 yards is a good place to start.

 

Now as far as targets, that depends on what you want to train for. If you are just interested in shooting high-power and other gun-sports the post above is spot on. If you are interested in self-defense or tactical type shooting with your carbine, that is a different story.

 

If you are training for self defense, remember, you aren't shooting anymore, now you are fighting. That means there is a compressed time factor with every sight picture and trigger press because your opponent is not just a piece of paper, but is a threat trying to do you harm. That means your targets are the same size and shape as you. The different sized targets used by the high power or bullseye competitors won't help train you for the fight. A human is the same size at 1 yard and at 600 yards, not 12" at 100 yards and 36" at 600. That being said, good luck trying to ID a target as a threat past 200 yards with irons/H-1, let alone defend a 600 yard shot as self defense in court. So, if self defense is your goal, then train for realistic distances.

 

For self defense/tactical training, your 6" target with a white center at 50 yards will serve you very, very well. (I use 8" paper plates for torso and a 3"x5" index card to simulate the CNS when shooting paper. I also have an 8" rifle rated steel plate. Hearing the steel ring is much better than trying to see 5.56mm holes in paper past 25 yards). Sure, try to keep your rounds in the white while prone, shooting slow fire, zeroing. When time isn't a consideration in your training, or you are working on trigger control, offset, etc... Be as precise as possible and shoot for the best group you can get. If you are training realistically for a fight, if you can always hit the 6" black, from 50 yards and in, in all weather and light conditions, on the move or stationary, in different positions - prone, sitting, squatting, kneeling, standing, and do it relatively quickly, you will be in good shape. 1 shot dead center in the X at 50 yards from the prone in 30 seconds is outstanding, for target shooting. 5 shots in the black standing at the 50 in 10 seconds is better - from a fighting standpoint.

 

If your goal is to shoot high power type matches, disregard the above. High-power is a very demanding discipline that is dedicated to very technical precision shooting. It is extremely competitive and difficult. It is a great supplement to tactical training, but it is not training to fight.

 

As far as finger position on the trigger, I try to mimic the position of my finger on the trigger while pistol shooting. It keeps everything consistant. I have found that ensuring I am not slapping the trigger and controlling the trigger straight to the rear, and then controlling it back to reset, is more important than the precise position of my finger on the trigger.