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Glock 34 gen 4 trigger upgrades

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i have no personal experience with the 2 you mentioned but did have the opportunity to get a free travis haley "skimmer" trigger ..i installed it on a gen4 23...it removed all the takeup but maybe 1/32" and reset was short and crisp...as a result of the method it bringers the triggers "resting" spot almost 1/2" closer than factory ..which required me to install the large backstrap to not "wrap" around the trigger...they used all factory oem parts/spring rates....(edit..also a minus connector so add $15to my $40 estimate)..just polished everything to a chrome look...pinned the trigger preventing the trigger bar(stock) movement to remove the takeup...and modded the trigger safety so it was still functional with the trigger in its new "rest" spot.....in my opinion the skimmer does what it claims...but to pay $150-170 for $40+/- in oem parts is crazy...if youre handy and familiar with complete dissambly ...the only additional part used was the roll pin used in the trigger to block the bar.....you could polish your oem parts with flitz and a dremmel buy the .25 roll pin and have the same thing...there is no unobtanium in this kit....but for those that arent it works great but it comes with a price..lol.

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henrym poses a good question....if it is to be a competition gun than charge on...but if its to be a carry/sd gun...id do some research and look for case law as to the validity of the internet claims of a "modified" weapon being a means of rat bastard attorneys/da's to jam you up ...and being nj youre already guilty/criminal just for being a gun owner...lol

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Keep in mind that this gun was designed to have the long take up. When some triggers are installed or tweaked, properly or improperly, you can greatly increase your risk of an AD. Anyone who shoots USPSA at CJ should know this first hand.

 

A glock is never going to have a 1911 like trigger and still be safe. It just wasn't designed to operate that way.

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I have the Edge trigger installed on my G22. It removes all pre-travel with a quick reset but it is still not like a 1911 trigger.

 

With that said, I've had two ADs when I first tested it due to the light trigger pull and no pre-travel. I definitely do not recommend it for a carry or SD. I'm still breaking it in and will not use it for competition until I'm 100% comfortable with it. So far, I like it. I hated the stock Glock trigger after I got a 1911 and was tempted to just sell the Glock but it was my first gun so I could not bring myself to sell it. The Glock was just sitting in my safe until I put the trigger in. I regularly take it with me to the range.

 

I did the work myself following their video guide on their website. There is also another guide on youtube which is pretty good also. It seemed very intimidating but was not too bad.

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I have dry fired a glockworx fulcrum trigger on a 34 gen 4. It is smoother and less effort to break but I wouldn't say it's better.  Just different and Glock dna is very much present. I would say gen 3 stock is closer to the fulcrum and my 34 gen 4 doesn't feel like that. I always remind myself not to pour money into a 34 bc its already a production class competition gun. Add in necessary Warren sights, it's knocking on the door of a Dawson crp STI spartan V ($870). Forget a drop in trigger cost bc it would make sense to buy a Spartan. That's a really good 1911.

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The Edge kit will push you out of SSP and into ESP for IDPA. You would have to consider the Vogel trigger. Removing the pre-travel is the main difference between the Edge and the Vogel. The Vogel also provides you with different springs if you want a heavier trigger pull.

 

I agree with getting a 1911 but if you already own a Glock, the outlay may not be much more. The Glock trigger may not be as nice as a 1911 but I sure like it a lot more than stock. It now regularly sees range time rather than sitting in the safe.

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Like Henrym says, a Glock will never have a trigger pull like a 1911. That is by design of the pistol itself and the differences between then.

 

First, Look at the direction a 1911 trigger is moved to fire - straight to the rear on the horshoe shaped trigger bar. It has a slim single stack grip enabling you to hang on to the pistol without squeezing your whole hand, leaving you trigger finger free to move independently from the rest of your hand. Everything we know about trigger control - straight to the rear, press don't squeeze, etc... Is reflected in the design of the 1911 trigger. The 1911 trigger makes it easier to follow the fundamentals of trigger control because, by design, you have to. It has an external safety, making the only thing you feel as you press the trigger on a 1911 the sear.

 

Then look at a Glock trigger, hinged at the top like most pistols on the market, moving the trigger bar back and up. Double stack grip making it a little harder to isolate your trigger finger during firing. Your finger moves in a completely different direction then is natural and necessary to fire a pistol accurately. Additionally, you are disengaging all three of the Glock's safeties as you press the trigger (the trigger, firing pin, and drop safeties). The creep/slack/spongy feel you get is a result of the disengaging of the last two safeties, (the firing pin and drop safeties).

 

A lot of the aftermarket triggers (I know specifically the Haley does this) make the Glock trigger "crisper" and with less take up by bringing the trigger as close as possible to the point where the safeties are released Prior to releasing the striker, without fully releasing them. Unfortunately, that isn't always the case with a mass produced, mix and match, firearm with loose tolerances. Some Glocks actually have their internal safety mechanisms disengaged by installing aftermarket triggers. If you have one, I suggest you acquire an orange slide cover and inspect the internals while dry firing under observation, and ensure that the safeties are working and are engaging/disengaging at the proper moments.

 

Subjectively, the lighter the trigger a Glock has, the spongier the trigger feels to me. Conversly the heavier the trigger, the crisper it seems.

 

I say all this as strictly a .40 caliber Glock shooter that traded his last 1911 for a nice US rifle M1 .30 cal and has not looked back. I use a 5lb connecters and all Glock OEM parts in all of my Glocks except my competition G35. That has a 3.5 trigger connector, a titanium firing pin safety, aftermarket springs (Wolff), and some lightly polished Glock OEM parts such as the striker and trigger bar (mostly from 1000s of rounds of dry firing)

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I have a G34 Gen 4.Trigger is a bit spongy, but that's a Glock trigger for ya... shot other mods but I kept mine stock because they didn't seem any better, only different, as other posters said. Not saying there is no reason for modifications - we all have preferences - I'm just curious.

 

Is there something in particular you don't like about it?

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