raz-0

Could just be the camera. Digital sensors have IR filters, but they only do so much. REALLY hot things will come out purplish like trying to take pictures of glowing coals at night. It would still need to be a pretty hot flame. Only thing I could think would cause that much fire in that crash is if the stopped traffic was for an in progress car fire and the crash added fuel.

For example, with my work pants made of heavy fabric, it cuts down on drying time. Things like the wife's bras don't take kindly to the faster spin cycle. You also definitely don't want it with anything that is harder to balance like a comforter because the self balancing feature can only do so much.

. Going to share the feeds?

If you can't manage complete sentences, you should at least try for complete thoughts. If you want help, it is usually best to not make helping you more work than it has to be.

You are the end all be all of washing machine knowledge then. Or not. My washer has three spin speeds you can select from.

We don't email. It just winds up Getting our domain flagged as a spammer. The scores will be done when they get done it's about 4-6 hours worth of work and we have been working on getting the sectional match done. If you include scoring, the monthly match is probably about 25-30 man hours spread amongst a handful of people. The sectional match is probably going to be a couple hundred or more by the time we are done. The folks who do all the prep, design, building and scoring at CJ are the same group of people doing all the same work at OBRPC for the uspsa match. We are all the same group doing the sectional with some additions.

I'm a class in l-10 I use a blade tech kydex dropped and offset holster for my 2011. I had a cr speed race holster for my single stack. I could get about a 0.1 second faster draw with the cr speed, but I get a better grip more consistently with the kydex holster.

Even that konus is borderline unless you are shooting a larger caliber. The 100m one works better due to the larger objective. The barska 20-60x80mm is passable. It'll do 100 yards fine even with .223. 200 yards is doable with .223 and mediocre with .30 caliber holes. 300 I ahven't tried, but I doubt it is good enough. It's a good value for the dollar, I jsut don't think there is a cheap way to do what you want. The answer may be "you can't afford it". Even tha barska, you will have to wait for a sale. going for a Maksutov-Cassegrain type scope might work. It'll get you more magnification and light cheaper becuse mirrors cost less than lenses, but mirrors tend towards chromatic abberation more, so with .223 at 300 you probably won't see it for the CA. You might. I know people use the celestron C90 for 300 yars .223 spotting. However, that's 90x magnification and a larger objective, and $240 instead of $75. Even then, you need to put it on a SOLID tripod to not have everything be a jittery mess. The tripod will cost more than $100 unless you can find some giant a** old school video tripod on craigslist for cheap because it's too huge for photography and obsolete for real video work. Here's the cheap 75x. I think it will disappoint at 300 and be too much scope at 100, so... http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-52238-Mini-Spotting-Scope/dp/tech-data/B00150XFLU/ref=de_a_smtd Seeing .223 holes at 300 yards is actually asking quite a lot form some optics. It's not a cheap task.

This stuff is going on in philly because the government isn't in charge if you ask anyone. The gangs are in charge. The gangs know it and the people at the block party know it. The city doesn't seem to know it yet though.

1) If you are going to grease it, you need to use grease with the ability to resist shear, otherwise it just rubs off quickly. I use slide glide heavy on mine. 2) The spring cna make a difference. JP sells a centerless ground spring that helps some for about he same price as a regular spring. 3) Your extension tube matters. Some are smoother inside than others.

Find me guidelines for nj. During the awb a screw was cool. The socom shipped, Fulton armory also shipped the stubby entry stock with an accuracy speaks adjustable buttplate as ban compliant. It extended and collapsed if you broke out an alan wrench.

Your shopping list is a mishmash of parts. First up what there are misconceptions about the socom stock presented as fact above. The SOCOM stock can be installed with a push button to adjust, but also comes with a screw that replaces the button and locks it in place. It was developed during the AWB intended to be legal as a fixed stock for post ban guns or as a collapsible replacement for pre ban guns. YMMV with NJ law, who knows, but in that mode I would consider it less adjustable than a magpul PRS, and nobody is concerned about that. IT is made by the same people who make the ARFX stock. It shouldn't be any weaker because the primary source of strength for the ARFX stock is the gusset around the buffer tube. The socom has the same gusset around a proprietary tube that is beefier. HOWEVER, the SOCOM is actually pretty heavy, and there are known issues of the proprietary tube not mating up solidly with some receivers resulting in wobble. It's kind of pricey for taking that crap shoot IMO. Second, the lower. Who the hell is roggio? At $129 on sale, I should know who they are. First hit after their website when googling roggio arsenal was this http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=314869 . There are tons of decent $99 lowers out there. Spikes is fine, palmetto state armory is basically the same, stag is good, rainier arms is good, rock river arms is good, mega is good, etc. Third, the monolithic upper. $650? and 26 oz? for a 10" rail? Dude, spend your money more wisely. You can get a billet rianier arms upper, which is machined very nicely and is 9.3oz and their rianier branded samson rail at 9" for 9.5oz, or 11 inches for 10.5oz. YHM barrel. Why the hell are you putting a $200 barrel on a $600 upper? I can tell you right now, you can pick up a noveske light wieght 18" barrel that will shoot WAY better than the YHM for $459, and it comes with a gas block and tube, and you can put it on a rianier billet upper for $189, which is BARELY heavier than a forged upper, but is machined VERY, VERY nicely, and put on a samson 11" forearm for another $151, and it will be a LOT, LOT lighter than your choice of upper and barrel, shoot better, and cost $799 as opposed to $833. Or just stick with a similar quality barrel with a midlength gas system. A spikes midlength 16" barrel + the rianier billet upper + their Sampson rial system would weigh in at 46.2 oz for the setup and cost all of $589 as opposed to over $830 and something over 52 oz. plus it will shoot better. fail zero bolt carrier group - I perosnally don't think the nickel boron plated BCGs are wortht he money, but if you must have it, you can save a few bucks going with Kies, spike's tactical or any other number of competitors. At the very least don't bother getting the kit with the hammer when you are buying a drop in trigger pack that you can't change the hammer on (and shouldn't if you could). Badger charging handle. Meh, cheaper and much nicer is the rianier ambidextrous.. currently on pre-order sale for $60 http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=3172

It's 1095 steel with a pretty poor heat treat and a all the ergonomics of a 70s era bayonet. Basically, you beat the crap out of it, it shoudl take an edge without too much effort, and lose it again without too much effort. Rinse and repeat relatively frequently until you have less blade left than you are happy with, and throw it away. So yeah, it's mostly a $29 beater knife.

The fast mag has two grooves the band can fit into. Move it to the lower one for less tension.

PTSD is real. The medical community is having issues with it though, because in addition to diagnosis being inexact, there's also the problem that you can be exhibiting symptoms from an incident that would likely cause PTSD for a large portion of the population, and you can be exhibiting it due to normal life hardships but you just lack normal coping skills. I could see going after treatment costs, but $5 million?

You'd pay income tax on already taxed contributions to an after tax retirement plan?

The closest one to me I know of is in rt 1 in Edison. Right on red is permitted into the strip malls, and the damn things go off every time someone does. The flashes are installed to light up all six lanes and until the stores close they go off prettying constantly. It messes with your night vision for about a quarter mile , and can actually make it harder to keep track of what traffic is doing for about half a block either way. Real safe stuff.

First thin you should check is if the S&B is actually brass. They have the same stuff as always, which is.. but has tight primer pockets (I actually like that stuff after the first reloading), and they have brass colored steel. It's their rane safe line of ammo I believe.

You could try a lightened carrier too.

Speer manual #9? Bahahahaha. I've got a Speer manual that was bought on clearance in like 2003. It is #13. Where the hell would you get 9? Xtreme plated are hard. Load to jacketed hollow point data. The little extra squishiness of the plates vs the longer length of hp bullets should even out. Speer has three 230gr listings for 231 Lead 5.1-5.6 at 1.270 Jacketed 5.6-6.2 at 1.26 Gold dot 5.0-5.6 at 1.2 I'd try 5.5gr at 1.23 ish for major.

Agreed. Bushmaster doesn't make it in .308 at this point, and there were only a handful of the magpul prototypes. It's not a stretch to imagine your buddy confused the acr and scar platform, or got the caliber wrong and the guy paid someone to turn his .233 acr into .300 blackout.

300 blk is basically the same as .300 whisper. The original cartridge was designed to do three things. 1) be accurate and lethal under 200 yards with subsonic loads. 2) replicate .30-30 performance with a better selection of bullets at supersonic velocities. 3) perform 1) and 2) out of a contender/encore pistol platform. That means perform well from an sbr length barrel. Due to improving bullet selection, 6.8 is getting nicer, but there's already more commercial loadings of 300 blk than 6.8. 300 blk has less gear to duplicate than 6.8. Brass is cheaper for reloading, and there are more bullets to choose from. Bullet cost is about the same. 6.8 pretty much just brings a flatter trajectory to the table.

You can be pretty sure due to physics. Anything from another pit has to come up over a berm in a big arc. Which means it is mostly gravity powered on the way down, or it's traveling more than a pit or two. A big slow .45 slug bouncing off mostly in one piece can bonk you on the head so you notice, and they can be hot. Splatter comes back pretty fast. The random piece of jacket seems slow because it is light, has only a small fraction of the energy of the original bullet, and has a bunch of surface area. A big chunk of bullet, and it keeps a LOT more of the initial energy due to more mass, and a much higher ballistic coefficient.

This is what I use. Squirt some on the gun, some on the steel wool, and rub with light pressure.

You can learn pistol on progressive. If you want ot be cautious you run one at a time and you can avoid getting overwhelmed. Rifle is harder to make the justification for a progressive setup. Assuming cleaned brass for both. Pistol goes like this: deprime->size->prime->bell->charge->seat->crimp-> done. some of those steps might be combined or separate depending on your gear and how you set up, but they can ALL be done on the press. The only gotcha is crimped brass, which for pistol, you can easily pluck out and toss in the scrap bin and proceed with a blank slot until it makes it all the way around. Rifle goes like this deprime->size->swage or ream primer pocket if needed->trim to length if needed->if trimmed, chamfer neck if needed->charge->seat->crimp->case gauge->done. Now for cheap blasting ammo, you can skip the chamfer. If you go with an x-die setup, you can avoid trimming very often if you exercise good inventory control of your spent brass, but you still do need to sometimes. If the brass has crimped primers, you have to remove it. The only press you can trim and take care of the primer pocket without removing the brass form the press is the dillon 1050 with the trimmer add on. And you need to hook a vacuum up to it. I'd lik that kind of a setup, but I just batch load on a turret.