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The CQC-S is probably a hair closer than a Raven with the standard loops. It also rides a tad lower too (which I personally prefer). All my RCS holsters are fitted with their drop loop option, which is not shown on their site but can be requested. I do not like high riding holsters.

How would the BCM Gunfighter comp stand up to NJ laws then? http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCMGUNFIGHTER-Compensator-MOD-0-5-56-p/bcm-gfc-mod-0-556.htm

Just call it the G-Lock then.

Can't go wrong with the CQC-S. I've moved more towards kydex but the CQC-S is one of the three leather holsters I will keep. I knew Lou Alessi when he was still alive and well, and he was not only a first rate holster maker, but also a first class gentleman in every way. Glad to see that his company is still going strong today.

I have the Guardian trigger in mine.

Congrats! Shoot it yet? Get some good steel sights on it, and you'll be all set!

If you have the 30274 ejector and the 0-4-3, and continue to get brass to the face, then get the Apex extractor. Even though you have a Gen 4, I still recommend the Gen 3 Apex extractor, as it is a more updated design, and the limiting tab on it really works well. Both my Gen 3 G19 and Gen 4 G17 have the same Apex extractor, and they both eject brass consistently to 3 - 4:00. Hell, they both even pass the 1911 test now. Shooting the stock extractor longer isn't going to solve the occasional brass to the face. If anything, it will get worse. For what it's worth, Glock has never been great when it comes to consistent ejection. Even older Gen 3 pistols will launch the occasional brass to your forehead. Most will likely fail the 1911 extractor test too.

Glad you had a great time at the class. A few questions I was wondering if Pat covered at all... 1. I've read that Pat is not a fan of running an X300 type WML at the 12:00 position. Did he happen to mention why that is? 2. Did he get into the different rail options there are today (such as the full quad rails like the ones from DD, the BCM KMR, etc)?

Regardless of a Glock being new or used/abused, I highly recommend switching to the TangoDown Vickers mag catch. It is heads and shoulders above the factory mag catch on both the Gen 3 and Gen 4.

These seem like very random choices. Good question above...what do you want out of your next purchase. That said, amongst what you listed, I would forget the P227 and the Mustang. SIG quality is not what it once was, and there really is no purpose for a DA/SA hammer fired pistol today. Also, the .380 is a purposeless round.

Lucky you...wish I could take that class! Do give an AAR if you can afterwards.

What class is this?

I've been rained on in class. Make sure your weapon is well lubed. Some people in a class I took had their guns start choking on them because the rain washed away the little lube they had in their guns. See if you can pick up a rainproof windbreaker with a hood before you head down. Do you have any stippling or other grip enhancement on your pistol? If so, you'll really appreciate it. If not, just be mindful not to lose grip on your gun if it's wet.

While you're home, try putting an empty shell casing (or a dime) on top of your front sight. Not sure if the PPQ's plastic front sight has a big enough footprint on top to hold the shell casing. Obviously, do this after you've checked that the pistol is unloaded and safe, and that the striker is cocked. Then pull the trigger without any jerking motion. If done correctly, the shell casing or dime should stay not fall off. This is easier when a second person places the casing on your sight while you hold the pistol steady. Great drill to ensure proper trigger pull.

Also, don't compromise on what you want just because something else is cheaper. There are far more crappy 1911s out there than there are good ones, at any price point. A Colt is worth buying, so save your dollars until you can get one.

Take a good hard look at the HK VP9! If this doesn't fit the bill for you, PPQ or Glock 19.

Not saying the Colt 1991 or Series 70 aren't going to feed JHP, but keep in mind these pistols are built to USGI type specs. In that configuration, it was originally only meant to shoot ball ammo. Some gunsmithing can bring it up to modern specs. However, you can't ask for modern performance from a gun designed over 100 years ago, unless you are wiling to spend a good amount of money. And even then, it's debatable if it's as reliable as modern issue sidearms. That said, as much as I am a proponent of reliability being top priority, sometimes you just want a classic firearm that speaks to you. If you really want a 1911, I say go for one of the Colts talked about previously, and shoot it a lot. Eventually, you will get a feel for what mods may be useful to you, and you can save up for getting it worked on by a reputable smith. One thing I can tell you right off the bat, is to spend a little bit on quality magazines. Most 1911s come with crappy magazines from the factory. Get some Wilson Combat or McCormick PowerMags from the start. My priorities for mods are in this order... 1. Reliability package (fit/tune extractor, throat barrel and polish feedramp, lower and flair ejection port, ensure plunger tube is staked solidly to the frame, etc). 2. Better sights 3. Good quality ignition components (hammer, sear, disconnector, trigger) and trigger job. Colt small components are supposed to be decent for factory parts. Replacing them will just take it to the next level. Anything beyond this is more about ergonomics and aesthetics that are subjective to the shooter.

You didn't specify if you want a traditional type bow (recurve or longbow) or a compound bow. Whatever your budget is, also make sure you account for decent arrows. You will first need to figure out what poundage you want your bow to be. If you are starting out, don't go too heavy, as this will make it harder for you to learn proper draw technique. Once you know your poundage, you have to figure out your draw length. These two figures can help you determine what type and length of arrows to get.

4" barrel and up, take a look at the S&W 686.

Wow, the 1991 is not much cheaper than the Series 70. It's been years since I've looked at the price of the 1991, but back then, it was significantly cheaper. I'd say in that case then, it's a no brainer. Go with a new Series 70 if you can. In my opinion, THE best base out of the box 1911 you can buy new today. Not that the 1991 is worse in quality, but there are a few reasons why the Series 70 is the more desired Colt.

Raven Concealment Phantom for the win. Only thing is it is getting near the $100 mark, but as the saying goes, buy once, cry once. If RCS is not an option for you, then check out this new offering from Wilson Combat, made for them by Blade-Tech... http://shopwilsoncombat.com/Edge-Holster-Full-Size-1911-Right-Hand-15-Belt-Black-Molded-Kydex/productinfo/ED1BR15/ It is said to fit full size 1911s with and without a rail.

It's probably as reliable as any GI spec 1911 is gonna get. The barrel and feed ramp are not going to be throated properly for modern JHP rounds, but it should feed ball just fine. Also, you likely can't expect an out of the box base 1911 to have the proper extractor tension today. If you really want a 1911 to enjoy, go for it, and you always have the option of sending it to a 1911 smith later to bring it up to modern specs. If you can shell out a few hundred more, try to find a Colt Series 70 repro, which not only doesn't have the series 80 firing pin safety, but will also make a nicer custom 1911 one day.

I gotta agree with Bullzeye on this. While the Supergrade is a fine pistol I'm sure, and having the backing of Wilson Combat definitely does give some peace of mind (great cs/warranty), for that money and similar wait time, you can commission a 100% custom 1911 from the finest pistolsmiths today. For almost the same money, you can get a piece by Jason Burton. You can easily get something by Jim Garthwaite too. Another reason I would agree with going with an independent custom shop is because you have the option of any quality part you like. Wilson Combat makes some great parts, but there are a few things I would prefer from other manufacturers (ie. sights and barrels). Also, I'm not sure if Wilson does anything other than 30lpi checkering on the frame.

As others said, go for the Smith. Buy once, cry once.

This should be in the handguns section since we're talking about a centerfire 1911 right? Anyhow, the 1991 is great base gun, as long as you don't mind the series 80 firing pin safety. It's a Colt, so you are getting a quality frame, slide and components. I used to have a 1991 that served as a base model for a customized pistol. It shot great. In the end, I preferred having a series 70, but that's just me. If you can't go for the Colt Series 70 reissue, then I say go for it!