Ian S

Really, when shopping for any gun, get your hands on it and make sure you like the fit. There are plenty of New Jersey LGS's that have all levels of shotguns that will be happy to let you shoulder their inventory. Figure a stock fitting may run around $200, so you don't want to have to do that for a gun that costs as much. Unless you really like it. (I don't know where else to say it djg, and I'm all for your 1A, but that avatar is really weirding me out.)

Shame, they have cold beer too.

So, to bring this around to a benefits of o/u versus pump thread... If you're shooting doubles trap, it's 50 rounds at a time. Pretty quick. Typically a second round immediately after. So 100 rounds and I found that the pump would start to get lazy and the stock would come off my shoulder and hose me toward the end. An o/u is a thing of beauty when you're just mounting, firing and firing again. For casual sporting clays, you've got time to rest on the walk between stations and it's not such a big deal. At the same price range and everything else being equal, if you're doing a game that moves relatively quickly and will be doing 50 or more rounds (any chance of using it for doubles), I'd vote for the o/u. Cheap is ok. Brand and scroll work only counts when it's sitting in the rack.

I shot trap for about a year with an 870 pump. For singles trap and for sporting clays, it worked well. When I started shooting doubles trap, I upgraded to an o/u to avoid throwing my first hull at the guy on my right. Last weekend I shot sporting clays, and rather than my trap specific o/u, I used my 870 again. Score? About what I'd shoot with my Citori XT. I shot a station with a Winchester 101 and hit 8 for 8. Point is, it's the "Indian, not the arrow". Shoot what you have or buy what you're comfortable spending. A cheap Savage o/u, Remington pump, Winchester, Browning or Beretta (price range increasing) will give you plenty of enjoyment. Upgrade as you see fit. I've never had anyone tell me I should spend more for a gun, but I have been told to keep practicing. Get something that you expect to last until you're ready to buy again and shoot the hell out of it.

Nice work.

Wow $495! I can understand the labor and knowledge involved to do it, that's a fair price. But, you could just about get all the tools you need for that price, learn it inside and out, and still have a bunch of cool tools when you're done.

Six Mile Run and Hartshorne are my two favorite mountain biking areas. Both are really well maintained and pack in a lot of variety. My favorite hike is South Mountain Reservation in Milburn. Plenty of cool clear water for my dog to rest after chasing noises in the woods.

The brake is also known as a compensator. It is not a flash hider so you're good to go. But, if it is screwed on to a threaded barrel, you'll need to have it permanently attached (pinned and welded or silver soldered) before you get the transfer.

But the 74 uses a threaded front sight block, no barrel threads.

As for the scope mount question, the AK-74 pattern should have a side mount scope rail. The NDS-2 EZ is pre drilled for it. Don't know how Waffen Werks configures it. Seems like there would be at least a little play in a gas tube mount. Is it really rock solid? Or is a receiver mount the better way to go?

How old is that picture? The Nodak Spud model for 5.45x39 is an NDS-2. It is not stamped "AK". Their website pic of the NDS-2...

Romanian M63 parts kit built on a Nodak Spud receiver with a virgin barrel. I'm torn between leaving it as a bfp or refinishing it.

Thanks, Bauer was exactly what I was looking for. Picked up a 7mm end mill and a reamer on my way home. Looks like I'm good to go for a project weekend.

I need some bits for drilling a barrel (an end mill and a reamer). I know I can order online, but I'd like to go to a brick and mortar store, especially if I snap one and need to get another mid-job. Graingers has full sets, but I just need one size of each. Can anyone suggest a store in North or Central Jersey or in the city that would stock a edge mill and a reamer? Does any LGS in the area stock gun smithing tools like this?

Good deal, friendly delivery. Thank you sir.

+1 for appropriate attire. It's part of your civic duty and whether or not you respect the obligation, you should do your part to raise the standard. The jury box is not a soapbox.

Now oos

If you're taking suggestions, when I had a LTCF in Massachusetts, the reason for issuing license was noted as "for all lawful purposes". No deniable technicality there.

In. Bring a light again.

PX4 Storm is pure awesome. Good choice!

Isn't the restriction, when it takes effect, that you can only load up to 7 rnds in a 10 rnd magazine?

I also found that when using cover and leaning out toward the support hand side, holding the light with the support hand and under the barrel, a blinding amount of light is reflected back by the cover. Moving the light to your temple gets it in a position to illuminate around cover and onto the sights. Maybe a rail mounted light is a useful backup, but not the best primary?

I've never used a railed light, so how useful are they? The last time I looked into buying one, the advise that stuck with me is that a railed light will go wherever your gun is pointing. And maybe you don't want to aim at everything you look at. Then IDPA is geared toward CCW with a concealment holster and cover. Would you normally carry a mounted light in your CCW holster? And like the rules said above, mounting the light during competition presents a safety issue. There would be a lot of too close to call muzzle sweeps of the shooter's support hand. No, rails should be reserved for lasers.

Clay Targets Online is a great resource to find places to shoot trap, skeet, 5 stand and sporting clays. http://www.claytargetsonline.com/list.php/NJ

Of course, if you're as good as Nick, you can just throw the flashlight on the floor and light up all your targets leaving two hands to work.