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Guest Damagedworld

My Saiga Rifles....

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Nice conversion! Is that a Galil forend?

 

What are you doing for mags for the 5.45? Haven't even seen standard 10 round magazines listed anywhere

 

Yes, it's a Galil forearm. The magazine is a stock 10rds. I am waiting for Surefire to release the 15rd mags for it sometime in 2010.

Just picked up the .223... Will post when done.

 

Cheek weld quick and consistent for me. What you don't see is that it has a see through rail so you could use the iron sights as well as the scope.

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looking really good! why not put a bullet guide so you can use ak magazines, capped at 15 rounds of course? cheaper magz and it will look more official imo...i didnt realize how old this thread was, any other upgrades to your saigas?

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looking really good! why not put a bullet guide so you can use ak magazines, capped at 15 rounds of course? cheaper magz and it will look more official imo...i didnt realize how old this thread was, any other upgrades to your saigas?

 

 

i might at some point i just wanted to get the gun going.. ill tell you what.. if we ever lose our stupid restrictions i will definitely install the guide.. get your parts yet.. ;)

 

only have the 7.62 left.. didnt really care for the 223 round..

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yup just the fire control group, bullet guide. im not sure if im gonna do the tactical look or keep it traditional with wood furniture, both look really nice when im done with the first part i will figure it out... so you dumped the 223. why? i thought that round had better distance than 7.62. i was watching future weapons and they showed a round called the 6.8, its supposed to have have distance and stopping power covered. i wonder if we will see a saiga in that caliber?

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i was watching future weapons and they showed a round called the 6.8, its supposed to have have distance and stopping power covered. i wonder if we will see a saiga in that caliber?

The 6.8 is a good cartridge and, from what I remember, was largely designed to compensate for some of the shortcomings of 5.56. That said, it doesn't have a very wide spread following. There's a few companies now that make factory loaded 6.8, but it's pretty pricey at $19-22 for a box of 20. And a few companies sell AR uppers for the 6.8, but it's still sort of a "niche" market. So, it's unlikely you'll see a Saiga in that caliber anytime soon.

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yup just the fire control group, bullet guide. im not sure if im gonna do the tactical look or keep it traditional with wood furniture, both look really nice when im done with the first part i will figure it out... so you dumped the 223. why? i thought that round had better distance than 7.62. i was watching future weapons and they showed a round called the 6.8, its supposed to have have distance and stopping power covered. i wonder if we will see a saiga in that caliber?

 

 

the 223 may carry further but i have an AR in 308.. so if im shooting something far im going to use that.. i believe the 308 gun i have has a range further than i am literally skilled enough to shoot.. so that would be a "long range" gun in my collection.. the Saiga was more intended for midrange (man sized target sub 200 yards).. the reason i ditched the 223 is i just didnt have a ton of confidence in the rounds ability to penetrate, and i feel the 7.62x39 has slightly more power.. in regards to rounds like 6.8 i tend to stay away from rounds that are less than common.. i want to be sure that i will always be able to find ammo for the guns i own.. the 7.62x39 is the ONE exception, but based on already having so many other readily available rounds i decided to stick with that based on what i was saying earlier about the power of the round..

 

as far as your conversion goes be careful with the parts you choose.. if you are putting a PG and moving the fire control group forward i would be sure that the rifle is 992 compliant.. because you are removing the features that allow the rifle to be imported as a sporting rifle.. i can help answer any questions in regards to that if you have any..

 

this is a worksheet to make sure you are replacing enough foreign parts with US made parts to remain compliant..

http://thegunwiki.com/Gunwiki/BuildSaig ... Compliance

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i was watching future weapons and they showed a round called the 6.8, its supposed to have have distance and stopping power covered. i wonder if we will see a saiga in that caliber?

The 6.8 is a good cartridge and, from what I remember, was largely designed to compensate for some of the shortcomings of 5.56. That said, it doesn't have a very wide spread following. There's a few companies now that make factory loaded 6.8, but it's pretty pricey at $19-22 for a box of 20. And a few companies sell AR uppers for the 6.8, but it's still sort of a "niche" market. So, it's unlikely you'll see a Saiga in that caliber anytime soon.

 

 

i agree with all this especially the cost issue.. if im going to pay that much for ammo ill stick with the commonly available 308 round...

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im about to do my restoration this weekend, just moving the trigger group forward, bullet guide and black tapco grip.... i havent decided on the stock or forearm im leaning towards the galil style, can you guys post up some pics of other saiga set ups that look good for some inspiration? i have been looking online but havent seen anything thats caught my eye. im did see some aluminum skeleton butt stocks that look kinda nice, im not too crazy about a plastic stock, they look cheap to me.

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im about to do my restoration this weekend, just moving the trigger group forward, bullet guide and black tapco grip.... i havent decided on the stock or forearm im leaning towards the galil style, can you guys post up some pics of other saiga set ups that look good for some inspiration? i have been looking online but havent seen anything thats caught my eye. im did see some aluminum skeleton butt stocks that look kinda nice, im not too crazy about a plastic stock, they look cheap to me.

 

the LOOK should be the LAST part of your concern.. doesnt matter how ugly a hammer is as long as it bangs in nails..

 

*what are you going to do with the rifle?

*want to mount any optics or just iron sights?

*have any need for rail mounted accessories?

 

if you want a ROCK SOLID stock go with the ACE stock.. it was a LITTLE pricey but doubles as a battering ram.. the Tapco G2 fire control group is great..

 

just be careful with your parts count because you are changing the way the rifle was imported so its important to choose American made parts...

 

I would build my Saiga EXACTLY how i did it the ONLY change i would make is a T1 in front for optics as opposed to the M3.. the M3 is awesome but a LITTLE big to be out in front..

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im leaning towards the galil style,

 

That retainer in the front of it has a tendency to come loose during hard use. It won't come off all the way because the screw in back keeps it on, but the front will be wobbly as hell and you'll probably have to stop shooting and play with the retainer. If you do use it, drill and tap a hole at 8 o clock in that retainer, and drill a divot about 1/16" into the barrel for the set screw you'll have made a hole for to dig into. It also is kind of awkward to grip, I didn't like it at all.

 

Real AK retainers use the two side grooves on the barrel and a notch at the top (that the Saiga doesn't have unless you file one into the barrel) for a cam to lock into. Any of these "bolt on" retainers really can't take much punishment because they do not actually grab onto anything.

 

I would just stay with the factory forearm if I were you. It's tough as shit fiberglass, I've cut a few up. Rails can be added to them easily if you want a light or foregrip. And it's designed in a way that it doesn't come off the rifle during hard use.

 

Whatever advantages gained by vented tubes or smaller HGs are non existent and just advertising BS. At my last range trip the 5.45 got hot enough to melt the rail cover on the Ultimak rail and singe the carpeting on the rifle rest at the range. AK's get hot. Buy nice gloves! :)

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if you want a ROCK SOLID stock go with the ACE stock.. it was a LITTLE pricey but doubles as a battering ram..

 

exactley my thoughts, incase i gotta wack someone! hehe...

 

looking good, i like how you made oe forearm functional with the rails, but how did you get that rail on top, did you tap that top tube?

 

any tutorials on how to cut out vents on the factory forearms? i have seen a few that look pretty good.

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if you want a ROCK SOLID stock go with the ACE stock.. it was a LITTLE pricey but doubles as a battering ram..

 

exactley my thoughts, incase i gotta wack someone! hehe...

 

looking good, i like how you made oe forearm functional with the rails, but how did you get that rail on top, did you tap that top tube?

 

any tutorials on how to cut out vents on the factory forearms? i have seen a few that look pretty good.

 

The top tube is an Ultimak Rail. It's a gas tube that replaces your factory one and has a rail on it. It has a set of metal straps that clamp it to the barrel so that it stays firm and zero is not lost.

 

If you're venting for style go for it, I'm not sure of any tutorials but I can tell you this, cut slow, if you use a dremel stay around 8-10,000 RPM, or use files and a pipe saw to cut the plastic. It is embedded with fiberglass and very tough, and if you heat it too much the area will start to melt. Also, if cutting with a dremel wear a face mask of some sort as it will kick up fiberglass shards. And if you get it too hot with a dremel it will throw globs of molten plastic around so just be careful and go slow. If you're looking for heat reduction the vents won't do it, just get a good pair of gloves that's really the only workable solution.

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