revolver terminology explaination, please...

[gunnarsport 13]

Hi,

 

I have been perusing the revolvers currently on sale on Gun Broker and I am always seeing the term "lockup" and "tight" to explain the

condition of the revolver.

 

Im wondering if I can please get an exact, detailed explaination of these terms so I can make a more educated decision should I decide to

purchase on Gun Broker.

 

Im looking at some MINT condition S&W Model 19-4s, 66's and Colt Trooper MKIII models. After looking at my finances,

I may actually be able to purchase sooner rather than later after all.

 

Thanks!

[Jon 264]

The condition of the "lockup" describes how "tight" the cylinder is when you pull the trigger. A good way to test this is to dry-fire the gun, and keep the trigger pulled back. Then try moving the cylinder by hand. You want a cylinder that won't budge during this test.

[Pew Pew Plates 358]

One of the many things you test before purchasing a revolver is lockup. Alot of people do the test wrong and get incorrect results, but I will explain the right way.

 

Check to make sure pistol is unloaded. Cock hammer back, and while holding trigger down ease the hammer foward. NEVER LET GO OF THE TRIGGER (this is the critical part!) now grab with your other hand the cylinder and wiggle it front to back and side to side. The tighter the better. How much is too much? Thats for you to decide. There are used revolvers out there that lock up so well that you cant feel ANY movement. (very good!)

 

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=explorer&chrome=true&srcid=0B6Fh3F6hufhDMWZiNjBkMWItZDhkNS00MTlhLWE4YzMtOTdmN2YwNmY4NzM2&hl=en_US

[MrP 81]

There are quite a few words that all basically describe whether or not the original factory mechanical tolerances have been greatly exceeded due to excessive use, poor handling, amateur gunsmithing.

 

Timing usually means that the cylinder should be locked in place in direct & complete alignment from chamber to forcing cone at the point where either the hammer comes to full cock or it begins to fall as the trigger is pulled.

 

Timing is considered "off" if the cylinder will rotate in either direction after the hammer is cocked. (Putting it simplistically.)Typically, and there's no range rod needed, bad timing can be determined by cocking the hammer very slowly and then checking to see if the cylinder's locked. If it will still rotate a bit further by hand before the bolt (or cylinder latch in Rugerland) drops into the cylinder's locking notch, timing is off. The cylinder SHOULD lock up before you hear the final click of the hammer cocking. If you see off-center firing pin strikes on primers, that can be another indicator.

[gunnarsport 13]

Thanks for the great explainations guys! BUT how can one do this test if purchasing from Gun Broker?? I guess you just have to trust their word? I guess its buy at your own risk if you use Gun Broker.

[Parker 213]

Endshake or cylinder play is another area to look for in a revolver to see if it's worn. Consequently, you should also look for a tight barrel-cylinder gap. I never bought a revolver unless I had a feeler gauge in my pocket to measure the gap.

[Jon 264]

Buy from the guy who allows a few day non-firing inspection period. That way you can check out the timing and lockup and if it's not to your satisfaction, get your money back.

[gunnarsport 13]

Ok, thats right too. I see some auctions say you have 3 days to return for refund.

[Cemeterys Gun Blob 165]

If you go for it, get it shipped to an FFL you trust, and ask them to help you check it out before you leave the store.

[gunnarsport 13]

GREAT idea, Gun Blob!

 

I will definitely do that.